\ -^A-i A 



T. F. MoGREW, 

NfEW York City. 




PUBMSHED BY 

THE RELIABLE POULTRY JOURNAL PUBLISHING COMPANY, 
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A Descriptnos^ of All S 
&.m.<d Varaetaes of BairataBms 
Breeds tlbe^t a.ire Becosiuisi 



d Bt 

Bud of 
Fopiisl 



Origin. Shape, Color, Peculiarities, Breeding, Mating, Exhibiting, Judging. Housing and Gen- 
eral Management, with an Exhaustive Chapter on Diseases and Remedies. 



Bv T. F. McGrkw, New York City. 



FUILLY ILLUSTRATED. 



^rice. Fifty Cesuts. 



PUBLISHED BY THE 

RELIABLE POULTRY JOURNAL PUBLISHING COMPANY, 

QUINCY, ILLINOIS, U. S. A. 



'^ 



% 



UBKARY of CiMlGRcSS 
Twg Copies Received 

wiAh 19 ittoa 

Oopyrliint Entry 
CLASS Wto No. 

1 COPY a. 



To the Bantam Fanciers of the world 
this book is dedicated. The thanks of 
the author are due those fanciers whose 
knowledge has assisted in its production. 
All that is gathered and published is for 
the benefit of Bantam Fowls. 

The Author. 



n;cceivod from 

re. 



copyright 1903 bv 
Reliable Poultry Journal Publishing Co. 




ANTAMS have gained a position in the fancy far beyond the wildest hopes of 
their most ardent admirers. Only a few years ago they were spoken of as 
"Banties, " and those who fostered them were considered a little off the regular 
line of the poultry fraternity: to-day they have the attention of the poultry 
^^^ world, and the most successful breeders in the land pay them tribute. In 

England, Canada and the United States the most accomplished breeders 
are using their utmost endeavors to produce some one or more varieties of these 
miniature fowls of a surprising quality, so as to astonish their fellow fanciers and gain 
prominence in the Bantam kingdom. 

In 1816 Moubray devoted to Bantams only thirteen lines of 

INTRODUCTION his book on domestic poultry; to-day, if alive, Burnham could write 

TO a book on the Bantam craze. Forty-five years ago Messrs. Wing- 

FIRST field and Johnson spoke of seven varieties, all that were known at 

EDITION. that time; to-day we have over forty kinds and colors, all fine 

in form and plumage. 

So much has been said and written within the last few years about Bantams that it 

would be quite impossible to say much of them that has not been previously stated. In 

compiling this volume, the author has gone through many books, written letters of 

inquiry to fanciers all over the world, and talked with every one known to him who 

knew aught of the subject. Facts thus obtained, together with those coming under his 

own personal observation, are herein recorded for the benefit of the reader. 

It is the author's wish to present this subject not in a lengthy, scientific manner, 
but in a short, concise way that it may be both attractive to the amateur and interesting 
to the experienced fancier. Should this desire be fulfilled he will be fully compensated 
for the many hours spent in search and preparation of the data contained herein. 
1899. T. F. MCGREW. 



The pleasure derived from the compilation of "The Bantam Fowl," was consider- 
able, but far in excess of this is the gratification that comes with the task of revising 
and enlarging it to meet the increased and more critical demands of Bantam fanciers. 
Much advancement has been made in the quality of Bantams since the first edition of 
this book was written. We now have a number of specialty clubs 
INTRODUCTION devoted to their interest; all over the world Bantams are bred and 
TO recognized as a valuable branch of the poultry industry; and at 

SECOND our leading shows liberal accommodation is provided for the little 

EDITION. beauties. 

Extend the hand of fellowship to all brother fanciers: urge 
them to continue in the good work now so well in hand, and the Bantam interest will 
grow to double its present proportions. Keep on faithfully in the engrossing work of 
breeding Bantams better and better. It is with such an object that this book has been 
enlarged in your interest and in the interest of our feathered pets. 

1903. ^- ^- *^'^^^^^- 




Barrf.d Rt^LK Bantam, 
Bred and Owned by 
C. H. Latham. 



GAME BANTAMS. 



Their Origin— Importance of Shape and Style— Full Descriptions in Detail of the Varieties Discussed- 
Recent English and American Ideals and Methods of Breeding and Judging. 



Black Breasted Reds; Brown Reds: Birchens: Duckwings (Golden and Silver): Red Piles; Pile Wheatens; Duckwiiig 
Wheatens and Red Wheatens: Whites: Blacks: Aseels: Indian Games: Malays 




HE most popular of all Bantam fowls is the Game Ban- 
tam. No variety of fowls is more widely known than 
the Black Red Game Bantam, and we must conclude, 
judging from the quality we find at some of our exhi- 
bitions, none so little understood. How often we see 
■ them after the fashion of a young duckling, short "f 
leg, long and plump of body, the female being shaped 
more like a pigeon than a game fowl, proving the lack of 
knowledge as to the requirements of a true Game Bantam. 

First we will say a few words as to the early ancestors 
of Game Bantams. More ancient than poultry lore is the 
game fowl. Of my own experience I can say that a personal 
friend who visited Pompeii saw a large flagon that had bcpn 
taken from the ruins, on one side of which was engraved a 
game cock, on the other a peafowl, showing that fowls of 
that kind were known in those early days. 

Early -writers tell us of Game Bantams, but we have 
seen only one record that places the credit of their origin. 

Mr. Entwisle, in his book on Bantams, states as follows: 
"We think we shall be quite within the mark in saying that 
not one of those we have placed in the intermediate class, 
such as Games, Cuckoo or Scotch Greys, Frizzled, Rumpless, 
Japanese or Buff Pekins, was known in England fifty years 
ago, certainly not sixty years ago." To Mr. John Crosland, 
of Wakefield, he gives the credit of having produced the ear- 
liest Game Bantams. In the few lines given to Bantams by 
Moubray (1816) he states: "There has been lately obtained 
a variety of Bantams extremely small and as smooth legged 
as a game fowl." 

Mr. Hewitt in writing of them in 1852, tells of a pair of 
Duckwing Game Bantams, which he describes as a beautiful 
pair. At the same time he mentions Black Breasted Red 
Game Bantams, a fac-simile of the game fowl, but not ex- 
ceeding three-quarters of a pound in weight. He goes further 
and states as his opinion that the Game Bantam, properly 
so called, may be fairly considered as occupying a distinct 
place in the family. He does not give the credit of their pro- 
duction to any one, but claims for them the right of belong- 
ing to a distinct family. 

Mr. Tegetmeier, in his book (1867), in writing of Game 
Bantams, tells of a Mr. Monsey, of Norwich, who produced 
them by inbreeding and selecting, also by crossing them on 
other Bantams. Neither of these gentlemen gives the credit 
of their origin to any one person. We simply present these 
records without comment to show the opinion of both early 
and modern writers as to their origin. 

IMPORTANCE OF SH.4.PE AND STYLE. 

The Game Bantam, of whatever variety, should conform 
to the standard for shape. Never be content with an off- 
shaped bird, no matter how good the color, for without the 
true Game Bantam form, color and markings go for naught. 



Never hope for good results in breeding from ill-shaped 
birds with poor carriage, for your reward will be disap- 
pointment. The main features are good style, hard plumage 
(that is, short, small and close-fitting to the body), small 
size, and color. These, in the order named, constitute the 
true Game Bantam. 

By style we refer to all terms used by experts and others 
not so well informed, such as carriage, symmetry, station, 
etc. The general style includes the shape of the bird and its 
ability to carry itself in the proper Game manner, and when 
this requirement is lacking the true Game Bantam feature is 
gone and the bird is of no value either as a show bird or pro- 
ducer of the same. Much improvement can he made in some 
birds by training, but true style cannot be trained into a bird 
that i.s lacking in proper form. 

The bird should be tall, upright, and bold; the head long 
and narrow; the beak finely formed, long, tapering, and 
slightly curved; eyes bright and clear, and face bright red, 
except gypsy face in Brown Reds; and the skin of the face 
very thin and close fitting. One feature of groatt Importance 
and beauty is a thin, clean throat. When bred so fine that 
the female scarcely shows any wattles, the thin, clean throat 
adds much to the beauty of head and neck in both males and 
females. To show how long ago the absence of wattles was 
bred for, we state for your benefit, 'that the Black Sumatra 
Game in perfection scarcely show.s any wattles. Our stand- 
ard does not class them as Game,'-., but they are of the same 
nature. 

The neck should be long, 
thin, and tapering from body 
to head, the neck hackle short 
and close fitting. The feathers 
of the hackle should not come 
together in front and they 
should end where the neck 
and back join. The shoulders 
should be broad, square and 
carried forward, and the neck 
should join the back and body 
between the shoulders, the 
prominence of which gives the 
appearance of the neck being 
set into the body. This feature 
is more prominent in the 
male. The back is short, flat 
and tapering, giving the body 
almosttheshape of an egg; in 
fact, the body should be egg- 
shaped, and the wings should 
set very close to the body and 
be carried well up to the back. 

-,,,, ,„,„,. . t ,j iJjsr.ajjdMF/g:^:-^ - red pile g.^me 

The end of the wing should ~^'«^:S^'^^^^ „.„,.„„ 




THE BANTAM FOWIy. 




BLACK BREASTED RED GAME BANTAM — MALE. 

not extend beyond the body, nor should any part of the wing 
drop nor extend over the back. The shorter the wings the 
better, and the higher the better, providing they do not lie 
upon the back. 

The tail should be short, small, close folded, and slightly 
elevated. The tails of both male and female should be formed 
much alike, the male having a few short narrow sickle feath- 
ers. What is called a "whip tail" is most desirable. The 
breast should be neat, round and plump. We do not admire 
the flat breast on either Games or Game Bantams, nor do we 
advocate over-feeding till the crop becomes extended, which 
spoils the bird's appearance. They should be fed enough to 
fill out their breasts to their proper form and not so underfed 
as to cause the shoulders to look narrow and spoil the whole 
appearance. The sides and wings should be round, not flat. 
In fact, the whole formation of the body should be round 
and tapering towards the stern; the whole body coming to 
a point, similar to the small end of an egg. 

The legs and feet are of great importance. The thighs 
should be long, muscular, and set well apart; in fact, well to 
the outside of the body. They should taper to the hock joint, 
which should be strong at the juncture with the shank, the 
latter being long, clean, and slender, almost round, and cov- 
ered with small, close-fitting scales perfectly smooth and 
free from imperfections of any kind. The feet and toes must 
be sound and perfect in form, the toes perfectly straight, 
well spread and of good length. The hind toe should be set 
low and flat on the ground, and should be perfectly straight 
out behind, and not curved, crooked, nor carried high. When 
the hind toes twist or turn foi-ward. it is a grave fault, and a 
bird with this weakness should neither be shown nor used 
as a breeder, because this defect disqualifies for all uses. 

Diminutiveness is a most important feature and should 
be secured by proper mating, not by underfeeding, for un- 
der-fed birds can neither mature good bodies nor feathers. 
Always remember, style and size come largely from the fe- 
male, and color from the male. Never use an overgrown 
female Bantam to produce small stock, nor a bad colored 



male to get good color. Have both as near the proper re- 
quirements as possible. 

The female should in all the above features conform to 
the male. Her shape and general form should be the same, 
with the few exceptions of tail, comb and head, but always 
of a more delicate or effeminate character. In the considera- 
tion of size, we hold it is just as bad to have them too small 
or undersized as to have them oversized unless their vigor 
.and stamiua can be retained. When too small their ability 
to reproduce is more likely to be dwarfed and their consti- 
tutional vigor impaired. No fowl of any kind is valuable 
when these facts combine to destroy its real use. The proper 
size of a Game Bantam is to be just as small as possible and 
yet retain all the characteristics of the game fowl. We have 
seen female Game Bantams that weighed under ten ounces. 
We think sixteen ounces is, under all conditions, about as 
small as a mature male bird has been bred and at the same 
time maintained all the features of a true Game Bantam, 
having proper vigor and endurance. 

We recognize by the American Standard the following 
varieties: JBlack Breasted Red, Brown Red, Golden Duck- 
wing, Silver Duckwing, Red Pile, Birchen, White and Black. 
In addition to these there are the Malay, Indian Game and 
Aseel Bantams. The Bantams recognized as Game Bantams 
by our standard must conform in shape to the description 
given above. As to color and markings, each variety must 
be treated separately. In doing this we shall present the 
views of the best breeders of both this country and England. 



BLACK BREASTED RED GAME BANTAMS 

The face, top of head when trimmed, and throat should 
be a rich healthy red on the cock bird; beak, dark horn color 
preferred; eyes, red; head, neck, hackle and saddle should 
all be of one shade whether orange or light red. We prefer 
what is called orange, bright and pure in color and perfectly 
clear from any sign of L,tripe or markings. Of whatever 
color, it should be pure and true. A light red shading into 
orange is a bad defect in color for the show pen (but for pul- 
let breeding, most desirable). The back should be a clear, 
pure red of a slightly darker shade than the neck. No bel- 
ter description can be given for the wing coloring than is 
found in the Standard of Perfection, which should be studied 
by all who hope to breed these fowls to perfection. The 
shoulder should be black up to the meeting of the black col- 
oring which extends down under the wings; wing fronts, 
black; wing bow, bright red, or crimson, as it is called in 
England. The wing coverts should form a glossy black bar 
across the wing; primaries black, the outer web of the lower 
feathers bay in color; part of the outer web of secondaries 
bay; balance of feathers black. Breast up to throat, body, 
stern, thighs and tail, black; sickles and tail coverts, lus- 
trous black; shanks and feet, willow colored, of a greenish 
rather than a yellowish shade and very smooth and free 
from all defects. 

The female to be a perfect show color according to the 
fashion of the day, must show a shade of color not strictly 
as described in our present standard. We say the ground 
color should be golden brown penciled with grayish brown; 
the English say, one even shade of light brownish drab finely 
penciled with black. The English fashion of color is win-, 
ning favor with our best judges. Our description is not a 
perfect description of the color as accepted by experts. The 
comb of the female should be small, neat and perfectly 
upright, in color, red; wattles and ear-lobes very small, if 
almost none are perceptible, so much the better, but 
they must not be trimmed; red in color. The color of the 
head should conform to body color. If the body color is dark 
the bead may be of a darkish shade; but one even color of 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



head and neck is preferable and that should be golden with 
a narrow black stripe through the middle of the feather. The 
beak should be a dark horn color. 

Back, wingbows and coverts should be one even shade 
of brown, finely penciled with lighter brown; breast, light 
salmon, shading into lighter color toward the thighs; pri- 
maries, black or darkish brown; tail, black or dark brown, 
the two upper feathers powdered with the same color as 
back; thighs, light brown, and shanks willow. The above 
would describe a standard female as per our standard. We 
should prefer a female of a little different shading (for we 
think it more like the bird that wins the admiration of both 
judge and expert), as follows: 

The general body color very even and regular in mark- 
ings, of a color rather on a golden brown shade, finely pen- 
ciled with dark brown or black; throat, light salmon; breast, 
a reddish salmon, shading into an ashy color under the legs. 
The whole color should be very even, pure and free from any 
dark or blotchy shadings. This we consider a beautiful com- 
bination for a show bird. Such a bird is most valuable as a 
breeder. 

To breed show birds of high quality is an art that can 
only be learned by experience. A few general points can be 
told, and when followed, success may be the result; but the 
production of high-class specimens is the result of study and 
patience. For the production of males, a perfect show male 
mated to Wheatens, or females showing a reddish cast on 
the wings, or females from a Wheaten mated to an exhibi- 
tion ra'ale,' is the best for good results. The best of all ia 
regularly bred females from Wheaten hens by the best exhi- 
bition males. If once you can establish such blood lines of 
your own, you can hope for males of the highest order, but 
till then look for only a small per cent of high-class males. 

For females, the best results come from males of one 
even color of red all over. If the hackle and saddle shade 
into orange, so much the better. Such males, with the truest 
colored females, produce the best pullets. 

(RECENT ENGLISH DESCRIPTIONS OF GAME BANTAMS. 

The very latest writing of Game Bantams in England, 
their home country, describe color most minutely by saying 
that the beak, shanks, and feet shall be of a rich olive or 
willow — any tendency toward slate suggests that there has 
been a Duckwing cross to brighten the color of the 
female; the hackle of the male, a bright golden 
orange, free from any striping, and the saddle the 
same (if anything the saddle should run lighter 
than the hackle); back and wingbows a bright 
solid crimson. Our Standard calls for a light orange 
neck hackle in place of the bright golden orange; 
saddle the same as hackle; back and wingbows red. 
We tliink this difference in description calls for a 
lighter color with us; but the facts are, we actually 
have the very richest colors in Game Bantams. 

The same writings state that the present day 
high class Black Red pullet must have a pale golden 
colored hackle some shades lighter than that of 
the male, each feather having a narrow strip of 
black down each side of th.e shaft; the main body 
color resembling the medium brown of a partridge 
and each feather so lightly peppered with a darker 
color as to produce one even soft color all over the 
back and wings. A dark shade of brown, so 
coarsely peppered as to give a dark appearance in 
place of the soft, clear, even color is most undesir- 
able. The clear even shade all over the back and 
wings is the desirable color to have, and tljere must 



be a total absence of any reddish shading about the wings or 
in any part of the plumage. The breast should be a rich deep 
broken salmon that shades lighter towards both the throat 
and thighs. 

This recent English description differs from our Stand- 
ard, which calls for hackle light golden with a dull black 
stripe through the middle of the feather, back golden brown, 
finely penciled with darker brown, breast light salmon that 
shades off to ashy brown. We should be more explicit in our 
description of color. 

Another English writer, in telling us of shape and color 
of the Black Red Game Bantam, writes as follows: 

"In judging Game Bantams, shape and style should be 
the most important, although a nice rich color is very pleas- 
ing to the eye. The male should be tall and graceful, should- 
ders prominent and squarely set, back short and flal (a 
round back being a very serious fault), tapering off towards 
the stern; the thighs should be long and muscular and set 
well apart; shanks fine and round and as long as possible. 
Flat shins should be guarded against. Besides counting 
against the bird in the show pen, they are a sign of weak- 
ness and care should be taken not to breed from ilat-shinned 
stock birds, as this defect is hereditary. The toes should 
be long and straight, the hind toe carried as nearly as pos- 
sible in a direct line with the middle toe, the point of which 
should just touch the ground : although in cases where birds 
have excessive style, there will be a tendency to carry the 
back toe too high. This is a minor fault, but where the back 
toe is carried sideways or inwards this is a serious defect, 
and amounts to disqualification in the show pen; it is com- 
monly called "duck-footed." In some cases this is caused 
by improper perches, in others it is hereditary, and should 
be strictly noticed when making up the breeding pen. 

"The head should be long and snaky, eyes large and 
prominent. In Black Reds, Piles, Duckwings, and Whites, 
the color of the eye should be bright red; a light or very 
dark eye in these varieties counts heavily against the bird 
in the show pen. In Brown Reds and Birchens the darker 
the eye the better, as near black as possible. The neck 
should be long and fine, the hackle feathers fitting closely 
together, wings short and nicely curved, and just meeting 
at the stern, carried closely, well up and fitting tightly to 
the body. Three or four years ago there was a tendency for 




" RCilAlUC POULTl, 



l/aut^j'p 9w<xAcMV 



StACK BREASTED RBD GAME BA«TAMS, 



8 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



Game Bantams to be long-winged, but this fault appears to 
have been overcome. In some cases the bird carries his wing 
across the bacli, which is a bad fault, and is known by the 
name of 'goose-winged.' 

"The tail, which is the most important feature In all 
Game Bantams, should be small and fine, the feathers car- 
ried closely together slightly above the line of the body, but 
not high. The feathers of the tail proper should number 
fourteen, and should be narrow and fine; the sickles or long 
tail-feathers of the male bird should be as fine as possible, 
reaching from two to three inches beyond the tail, and 
should be carried slightly curved, but not forked. 

"Size is a most important feature, not only in Game 
Bantams, but in every variety of Bantams, and requires very 
careful consideration. At the present day it is the aim and 
desire of most Bantam breeders and exhibitors to produce 
the-smallest and finest-boned specimens which, although 
very handsome and valuable as exhibition birds, are cer- 
tainly not to be relied upon as stock birds, for nine out of 
every dozen of these fine specimens are quite unable to pass 
their first egg, and die egg-bound. 

"We now come to the next important feature, viz., color, 
which in the show pen should count fifteen points in black- 
red cocks, the face, head, lobes and wattles should be a 
bright healthy red, the neck hackle bright orange, free from 
striping; back and wing-bow rich crimson, while the saddle 
hackle should match the neck hackle as near as possible, 
wing butts black, wing bars a glossy or steel blue, while the 
bays or wing ends should be a light chestnut; legs, feet, and 
beak, rich olive or willow, but not blue, which we often find 
in some strains, where Duckwing blood has been introduced, 
but in the breeding pen blue legs should be guarded against. 
The breast and thighs should be black, perfectly free from 
ticking or lacing, although in adult birds it is rather difficult 
to get a cock perfectly black in breast. The tail and sickle 
feathers should be black throughout, including the shaft 
which runs through the center of the feather, and which in 
some strains is more or less red, and generally denotes a pul- 
let breeding strain; this is, of course, objectionable in the 
show pen, although not to any great extent; still a black 
shaft is at all times preferred in the breeding and show pen. 

"We will now go on 
to describe the exhibi- 
tion Black-Red pullet 
to match the cock- 
erel. It should be 
identical in color of 
eyes, face, head, comb 
and lobes, white in 
lobes being a great 
drawback, although 
it is a very difficult 
matter to breed pul- 
lets absolutely free 
from white in lobe. 
This blemish is some- 
times removed by the 
professional exhibi- 
tor with a pair of 
scissors; neck hackle 
z- golden, marked with 
i: black; bai'kani wings 
light brown finely 
penciled with darker 
brown; breast a rich 
salmon, running into 
^' a lighter color, which 
must be very even 




throughout, the divergence in shade being gradual. The 
clear even color of the female is most important. The throat 
should be a pale salmon; breast rich deep salmon, shading 
lighter towards the thighs and under the body. The tall 
should be black with the exception of the two outer or top 
feathers, which should correspond as nearly as possible with 
the color of the body." 

The following notes from Mr. B. C. Thornton, of South 
Vineland, New Jersey, will be of interest to all, coming as 
they do fi-om one who has ability in handling Game Ban- 
tams. He writes: "In mating Black-Breasted Red Game 
Bantams for the production of exhibition specimens it is 
best to use double matings, one for cockerel breeding, the 
other for pullet breeding. 

"For cockerel breeding one should have a bright colored 
male bird, bright red or light orange hackle to top of head; 
one shade of color from top of head to end of hackle. Same 
color for saddle hackle, deeper color on back and wing, good 
solid glossy black breast, and good color on wing bay. 

"The female should be a bright, light partridge color 
on back. A trifle of soft, ruddy color on wing is no objec- 
tion, but not bricky red. She should have a light salmon 
breast, a bright lemon hackle, free, or nearly so, of striping. 

"For pullet breeding use a male of same color as for 
breeding males, provided you have very sound colored fe- 
males perfectly clear of the slightest ruddy cast on side of 
wing. This mating will produce the bright colored females 
so much admired in this country, but somewhat lighter in 
color than is fancied in England. If possible, it would be 
best to secure a strain of birds noted for breeding each s6x 
and mate them up accordingly." 



BROWN-RED GAME 
BiNT.\M.S. 



BROWN RED GAME BANTAMS. 

We notice that the English writers of this variety agree 
upon the shortcomings of Brown-Reds and say that they 
suffer from being in too few hands and by having too much 
feather and a softness of plumage. This they think might 
soon be changed if a better distribution could be had. Men- 
tion is made of a few very fine specimens that have been 
shown, but none of these have fully equalled the other varie- 
ties. Attention is called to the fact that they are much 
easier bred than are the Piles and Duckwings, and more 
suitable to smoky districts. While it is admitted that 
Black-Reds take the lead, one writer tells us as follows: 

"Black-Reds have always taken the lead, and I am 
firmly of the opinion that they always will, although the 
Brown-Reds appear to be making steady progress, so much 
so that, in pullets especially, there are to-day some that 
could hold their own against the best Black-Reds, both in 
type and quality; still, the judges have always hitherto 
given preference to Black-Reds. In cockerels the Brown- 
Reds are still a long way behind the Black-Reds. The color 
has been obtained almost to perfection, but there is yet too 
much feather, and with one or two exceptions, the type and 
stateliness of the miniature game fowl, which we find in 
Black Reds, Piles and Duckwings is still wanting more or 
less in Brown-Reds. 

".\nother reason why so few Brown-Reds are found 
competing against Black-Reds is that, as yet, the former are 
practically in the hands of three or four exhibitors, whom 
we find clearing the boards at our more important fixtures, 
and until they become more widely distributed this state of 
things will continue; but the main reason, I believe, is that 
the judges have decided preferences for the Black-Reds: 
that is why we very seldom find Brown-Reds competing. In 
my own mind, I think that Black-Reds should compete alone, 
and let the Brown-Reds come under the head of A. O. V. 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 




T. A. UAVEMl^YEK. S BLAtK-KtD GAMi, 
BANTAM COCK. 



Game Bantams where classes cannot be provided for them. 
I believe this would in some measure be the means of mak- 
ing the Brown-Reds more popular. 

"Brown-Reds, like the Black-Reds, breed true to color, 
and are much less trouble in preparing and keeping in show 
form than Piles or Duckwings, and can be kept almost any- 
where, where it would be next to impossible to keep the for- 
mer. The Brown-Red cock should have a very dark 

mulberry face, ap- 
proaching black, the 
darker the better; 
the eyes should be 
as dark as possible, 
a red or light eye 
counting heavily 
against the bird in 
the show pen; the 
legs and feet 
should be almost 
black. The neck and 
saddle hackle should 
be a pale lemon, the 
back and saddle rich 
lemon, breast black 
ground color, with 
pale lemon lacing 
round each feather, 
and showing the 
shaft of the feather, 
the lacing to start 
at the throat, and 

Winner at Philadelphia, 1102, and sold for JSO. continue dOwn tO the 

top Of the thighs. 
Wing-bar and tail black, the latter as fine and short 
as possible, although it is very rarely we lind the 
Brown-Red so line in feather as the Black-Red, espe- 
cially when the bird possesses that pale lemon top color 
which is al! the rage at the present time. 

"A few years ago the lemon top color had not been ob- 
tained; in its place we found then dark orange or nearly red, 
and I believe it is the result of breeding for color alone that 
Brown-Red fanciers have lost the hardness of feather; for 
it is a well-known fact that the lighter the color the softer 
the feather, and vice versa; yet, to be successful iu the show 
pen, a Browu-Red cockerel must possess that beautiful 
lemon top color which to-day is more than half the battle, 
irrespective of hardness of feather. Still I contend that in 
judging Game Bantams shape and type should be the first 
requirements, then color and hardness of feather. The 
Brown-Red pullet to match the cockerel should be identic- 
ally the same in face, eye, and legs. The neck hackle should 
be a pale lemon with a narrow black stripe; and this color 
should reach to the crown of the head. The weakness in 
a narrow black stripe; and color should reach to 
the crown of the head. The weakness in Brown- 
Red pullets is to be copery or dark capped, viz., the 
top of the hackle towards the head runs a dirty coppery 
color, which is a great objection. Although it is one of the 
mysteries of game breeding to produce clear lemon-hackled 
pullets free from lacing on the back and shoulders, still it 
can be done with careful mating and perseverance. The body 
and wing should be a glossy black, free from lacing or shaft- 
iness. The ground color of the breast should be black; each 
feather from the throat to the thighs distinctly laced with 
"pale lemon, the lacing to be uniform, and continued well 
down to the thighB, the breast lacing being one of the most 
Important points, as quite 39 to 40 per cent fail more or less 
In this respect." 



Of course, it will be remembered that condition makes 
all the difference in color of plumage. A fowl that is poorly 
^under the weather, will not possess that glossy plumage 
and the close-lying feathers that a Game in first-class trim 
should have. Variation of shade is sometimes the result of 
sickness, and it generally stays with the bird until the next 
molt. 

The style of the bird is always affected by its condition. 
A sick bird can never be made to assume that upright, force- 
ful appearance that a well trained Game in good health ex- 
hibits, and in exhibiting Games this is half the battle, for 
a good judge will pass by every time a Game Bantam that 
lacks style and form. Want of condition brings to the front 
all those latent defects that breeders strive to eradicate. If 
the bird is inclined lo possess a white tip — if the defect has 
appeared in its ancestors, illness will bring it to the front 
without fail. Glossy black assumes a brownish hue, lacing 
and shafting seems to show up more than ever, and the 
hackle loses its brightness. Lack of condition also affects 
the color of face, and comb; in fact, these sections are the 
first to give warning that the internal economy is out of 
order. It will be interesting here to refer to the required 
color of these sections. 

The American Standard for Browu-Red Game Bantams 
tells us that the face, comb, wattles and ear-lobes of both 
male and female should be dark purple or black. The male 
should be colored as follows: The portions of the body that 
are red in the Black Red male should be lemon colored in the 
Brown-Red male. .411 other portions should be black, with 
a narrow lacing of lemon on the breast feathers. The shaft 
of the feathers that are laced should be of a pale lemon 
color, shanks and feet (juite dark in color. Head and neck 
feathers should have a uarrow stripe of black. All lemon 
colored feathers should have a light colored shaft, and sad- 
dle should be striped with black, same as neck feathers. 

The female should have a golden or lemon color for 
head, running a little lighter for neck, which should be pen- 
ciled with a narrow stripe of black down the middle of each 
feather; the balance 
of the plumage 
should be a lustrous 
black, the breast 
feathers laced with 
lemon. All feathers 
showing the lemon 
lacing should be 
laced with the same 
shade as the neck 
feathers. Whatever 
shade the neck is, 
the breast lacing 
should be the same, 
and each feather nn 
breast of both malf 
and female should 
be evenly laced all 
round with a narrow- 
edge of the sani> 
shade as neck color. 

Th9 legs and feet of MR. a. a. PARKER'SNEW YORK WINNINOBLACK- 

both male and fe- red game bant.am hen. 

male should be quite 

dark in color. It black legs can be had they are by far the 

best. 

Good colored Brown-Reds bred together should produce 
both males and females of the proper colors. To keep the 
color true the highest grade males should be bred to the 
most perfect females, and to regain any lost color in males. 




10 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 




MR. S. WALKKR ANDERSON S 
BIRCHEN GAME KANTAMS. 



breed from females that show good lacing on back and wing 
bows. Never discard a female that is well laced on back and 
wings, for she is of great value to improve the color of 
males. Cockerels that show too light color on back often 
make the best cock birds, having a tendency to grow darker 
each year. A true colored young bird is often too dark as a 
two-year-old. Some use Oolden Duckwing l)lood to improve 
the color, but it is far better to use females as above men- 
tioned, and thus save much trouble for years to come. 

It is always best to adhere closely as possible to ideal 
colored specimens in breeding for color. 

We know that some advocate separate pens for produc- 
ing males and females. To do this the fol- 
lowing advice given by a recent writer 
should be well considered: 

■Select the most perfect colored male 
bird; one possessing that beautiful pale 
lemon top color, and plenty of it. Should like 
him to have all the breast lacing possible, 
but at the same time should like the lacing 
to be clear and distinct, and yet possessing 
black shoulder butts free from lacing. An- 
other important point to look for-is a sound 
dark eye — the blacker the better. Never 
breed from a light-eyed bird. The pullets 
to mate with this bird should be as tall as 
possible, tight in feather, and as pale in neck 
hackle as possible, care being taken to see 
that the pale lemon is continued to the top of 
the head; this is one of the great secrets to 
obtain bright colored cockerels. 

"If you want bright colored cockerels, 
never use dark capped pullets or hens. See - , 
that they are clear lemon right up to the "; 
comb. Never mind if they are laced on the 
back, all the better, as you will get more 
color in your cockerels; and although the 
pullets from this pen will be useless as show 
specimens, they are invaluable as cock 



breeders; and should some of them come with bright pale 
hackles, laced on back, and continued on to the wing or sad- 
dle, guard these in the same way as you would a Klondyke 
claim, for there is gold in them as cockerel breeders, al- 
though in other respects they are worthless. 

"The next season it would be advisable to put these 
pullets back to the sire, and put the best cockerel of that 
season's breeding back to the hens. In breeding for pullets 
it is not necessary to have the cock bird so pale in color as 
the cockerel breeder. One of the orange shade, or even 
darker, would be preferable. Oare must be taken to see that 
he is sound in eye, very clear in lacing on breast, and that 
the lacing is carried well down to the thighs, and not 
patchy or irregular. With him mate four or five pullets or 
hens that are perfectly sound in body color, quite free from 
lacing on back, yet well laced on breast. This is absolutely 
necessary in pullet breeding. The hackle should be as clear 
almost and as bright as the pullets I have already described. 
In fact, pullets for pullet breeding should approach as near 
as possible to the exhibition standard. From this pen I 
should look for the very best colored pullets, but the cock- 
erels would be found deficient in color." 

In addition to these matings, some make use of the 
cross with the Birchen to secure the pale lemon color; 
Hirchens, being partly Duckwing blood, help in this way, 
but tiiey bring bad features in shanks, which give consider- 
able trouble to root out. The best way to secure good last- 
ing color is to continue year by year to select and breed 
together the best you can find. 

Mr. B. C. Thornton writes of Brown-Red Game Ban- 
tams: 

"They are fast gaining ground with American fanciers, 
and some of the best from the other side are being trans- 
ferred to the yards of American Game Bantam breeders. 
The fashionable color of to-day in the male bird is the 
bright lemon hackle and saddle, and as near to that color as 
possible on back and wing-bow; fine, narrow lacing on 
breast, coming well down to the thigh; body color and tail 
hard, glossy blacl;. 

"The female, in body and tail, should be short, hard- 




m- 



BIRCHEN GAME BANTAMS, 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



11 



feathered, glossy black in color, narrow, fine lacing of lemon 
on breast; hackle feathers black, deeply laced with lemon. 

"In breeding for males I would use a male of the above 
description with good, hard-feathered female; if slightly 
laced on back it is no objection. They should be well laced 
on breast. 

"For pullet breeding I would use only sound colored 
females, with lustrous black body color, no lacing except on 
breast. A slightly darker male than above described would 
be better for pullet breeding." 



runs during the show season. Always destroy any bi'own- 
red chickens that are Birchen bred; if not you will never 
obtain a pure strain. 



BIRCHEl^ GAME BANTAMS. 

Birchen Games are the same in markings as the Brown 
Reds, only their markings are silvery white. For this rea- 
son we advance the opinion that the coloring of the Brown- 
Reds should be more of a golden color; one after the Golden 
Duckwing, the other after the Silver, believing the lemon, 
or straw color, in fact, too faded a color to breed true and 
sustain itself as it should. We present below a description 
of this variety from the pen of Mr. S. Walker Anderson 
(Hon. Sec. pro tern of the United Game Club), of Scrooby, 
Bawtry, England, one of the most successful fanciers of the 
day: 

"This new and pretty variety of Bantams has only re- 
cently come to the front. 1896 was the first year that classes 
for It were provided at the Crystal Palace, although they 
have been shown successfully in the variety classes. As yet 
we have no recognized standard. I have drawn up a stand- 
ard giving the most points for that which every breeder 
will acknowledge to be the most difficult to obtain. The 
Birchen, as most breeders know, is a made breed, obtained 
by crossing a Duckwing with a Brown-Red. You obtain a 
Birchen in the first cross, and many times might breed a 
specimen equal to many years' careful breeding with Birchen 
and Birchen. 

"You must select a Silver Duckwing cock with heavily 
ticked breast and streaky hackle, good black thighs and 
fluff; small in tail; very free from shaftiness or lacing. Of 
course it is understood that the birds must be of good shape, 
long head, with plent.y of reach. The Brown-Red hen must 
ha.ve a good black face and eye, evenl,v laced breast, and 
light lemon hackle. And be careful that she has a clear 
cap. Body should be by no means shafty. From your first 
season's result select those nearer to the Birchen standard 
for next year's breeding stock, and in no ease, however 
good, breed from a cock or hen that has a red face and light 
eye. 

"You must first have a good shaped cock with plenty of 
reach and style, long head and neck; face and eye as dark 
as possible; the beak, legs and toe nails black or very dark 
slate color; the cap, neck and saddle hackle silvery white 
(not creamy), each feather having a narrow black center. 
The breast, which is one of fhe most attractive parts of the 
bird, should be black, each feather having a narrow margin 
of white completely round it and the shaft of the feather 
faint white. I myself have a strong objection to a heavily 
laced bird. The thigh and fluff should be black. This point 
I consider most difficult to obtain, as most cocks are laced 
both on the thighs and fluff. The shoulder points should be 
black; saddle and beak a silvery white with a black center; 
bows and wings black; tail black, small and fine in sickle and 
free from shaftiness or lacing. The hen should have a good 
black face and eye. Cap and neck haekle are the same as 
male bird, also the breast; the rest of the body a gl.issy 
black. Legs, feet and toe nails same as the cock. 

"General remarks: To keep Birchens in show form you 
must not expose them to the sun; if you do they will tarn 
a straw color, r should advise keeping them in covered 



SUC.f;t;sTBO ST.\ND.-iRD. 



COCK. 

Good head and neck 6 

Eve and face U) 

Shape and style 10 

Legs and feet S 

Condition 10 

Hardness of feather 8 

Tail 10 

Breast lacing 10 

Clearthighs 8 

Soundness of color 10 

Size 10 

100 



HEX. 



(iood head and neck 6 

Kye and face 10 

Shape and style 10 

I,egs and feet 8 

Condition 10 

Hardness of feather 8 

Tail 10 

Breast lacing 10 

Clear cap 8 

Soundness of color 10 

Size 10 



ino 



DISyUALIFICATION.S. 



"Dnckfeet, crooked breast, deformed back, wry tail, light eye, red 
face, and straw colored hackle, saddle and back," 

Some most beautiful pullets of this variety have been 
shown by the manager of Havemeyer's Mountainside Farm. 
The shape and color of these pullets are quite equal to the 
best; at the same time they are not generally so good as the 
other and more popiil.ir varieties. The eyes of the Birchci 
should be black or dark brown. The Duckwing cross gives 
trouble in this direction, as the Duckwing has a red eye. 
One of the beauties of thi.s variety is to have the lacing from 
the throat to the thighs, and hold it there, and at the same 
time prevent its appearance in other sections. The rich 
glossy black and the clear silvery white is most, beautiful, 
but hard to obtain. Mention fehouid be made, in malinij 
Birchen Games, that the same f.eneral rules should be fol- 
lowed as in Brown-Reds; aiming for the clearest, cleanest 
colors that can be obtained. 



DUCKWING GAME BANTAMS. 

Duckwings are of most beautiful color when in perfec- 
tion. The rich coloring of neck, back and wings forms a 
beautiful contrast to the bright, glossy black body of the 
males. Our standard for these fowls diffei-s somewhat from 
the Knglish in the poirt of describing color. In Golden 
Duckwings. head and hackle with us are straw color; the 
English standard calls for creamy white. The back in our 
standard is golden; with them orange or yellow. They 
prefer a creamy vhitc hackle with orange back and wing- 
bow. We call for a straw colored hackle and golden back 
and wing-bow with saddle same color as hackle, both of 
which must be free from any penciling or dark stripes. Of 
whatever color, it must be clear and pure, and "free from 
any discoloration. The general coloring of the bird is the 
same as to markings as the Black Red. The wing bay of a 
Duckwing is of great importance. This is a weak point in 
most of thPiii and should be watched with care in breeding. 
The shanks of both male and female, to look the best, should 
be 3 light willow. 

The female in her make-up follows the Black-Red, hav- 
ing the salmon breast. Her back and wings are a slate gray; 
hackle silvery gray with a narrow stripe; bod,v and stern 
light ashy gray, tail black, with top feathers powdered with 
gray. Our standard omits the penciling in plumage of 
Duckwing females, but they should be penciled on back and 
wings, very fine and evenly, with black or dark brown. The 
head coloring of the Duckwing should be very clear and 
pure, and the hackle quite free from any off shading. 

The Silver Duckwing is a counterpart of the Golden, 
except in color. The male is a silvery white in hackle, 
back, saddle and wings, and the female is of a much lighter 
shade of gray, with a light salmon breast. A perfect Duck- 
wing female is the most beautiful of all Game Bantam 
females when of perfect form and color. No Game Bantam 



12 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 




PAIR OF IH'CKWlNti (iAMK BANTAMS. 



is harder to produce in 
perfection than the 
Duckwing. They must 
be crossed with the 
Black-Reds to keep up 
the color of the males, 
and this must be done 
in an understanding 
way or bad results will 
follow. Do not select 
them as a breed easy 
to handle, for they are 
a work of art from the 
hand of an artist who 
has well in hand the 
blood lines of his differ- 
ent matings. Do not be 
surprised if the progeny 
of a well selected pen 
of Duckwings disap- 
point you. It is quite 
essential to know their 
breeding to handle them 
for best results. 

In England the Gold- 
en Duckwing only is 
recognized as a show 
bird. The Silvers are counted as u side-line or weak-colored 
offshoots from the Goldens. 

We shall describe the (iuldcu nuckwiug as demanded 
by the English standard: 

"Shape, same as a Black-Red; shoulder color, deep 
straw, shaded with maroon, which gives a bright brassy 
color as you look across the back towards the tail; neck 
and saddle, a browny white with as little marking as possi- 
ble. The pullets should be a pale steel color with salmon 
breast." 

With us, we have both the Golden and Silver Duckwing, 
and the class of each is as noted in the name. The one has 
the golden or straw color markings, while the other has the 
silvery white markings, and no striping in the neck of either. 
It is quite usual to have both Golden and Silver Duck- 
wings from the one mating. It is also unusual to see a real 
fine, clear, clean marked Silver male, as nearly all of them 
have the golden .shading on the wing-bow, it nowhere else. 
It it is our intention to encourage both, we should be more 
stringent as to the color of both male and female, for the 
mixed colors are neither attractive nor complimentary to 
those who breed them. It should be the purpose of all the 
Game Bantam breeders to have these color markings held 
closer to the line of true color. 

Mr. Thornton writes of Golden and Silver Duckwing 
Bantams as follows: 

"They originally were the result of breeding a Black- 
Breasted Red cock to Silver Duckwing females. They are 
now bred as a distinct strain and reproduce very true to 
name and color. A very bright colored Black-Breasted Red 
male is sometimes used to secure good color in cockerels. 
Females from this cross are generally Black-Breasted Red 
in color, and are only valuable when mated to true colored . 
Duckwing males to improve the color. 

"Silver Duckwing Game Bantams were the old-time 
birds. They are bred extensively in America, but little in 
England. They are really a handsome bird when of a pure 
silyery white; much more beautiful than the Golden7 No 
Game Bantam is more beautiful than a fine Silver Duckwing, 
and a female of this variety is the most beautiful of all 
Game Bantams," 



RED PILE BANTAMS. 

The Pile Game Bantam cock, when bred to the true type 
of form and color, is one of the most beautiful of all Game 
Bantam males, and many assert he is the most beautiful. He 
is rod and white, as the Black-Red is red and black. If the 
red is of a bright crimson, and the while a pure, clear 
white, the combination is most attractive. Yellow legs and 
beaks are most essential to a perfect make-up. Bad or off- 
coloring of any kind is quite objectionable, and while dark 
markings are not a disqualification, they detract from the 
beauty of the bird. 

The female should be pure white, with a golden hackle 
centered with while, and a salmon throat and breast, the 
color shading into white on thighs and belly; the purer 
and clearer these colors, the better. The breast color should 
not be of a reddish brown, but salmon of a red shade of 
color. The tendency of the female is to run light in color 
when produced from Pile matings. This can be improved 
in many ways, but the better way for general purposes is 
to breed from females quite dark on breast and with red 
markings on wings. These birds show the strength of color 
as derived from the Black-Red cross, and will improve color 
without so much injury to the leg color. But to produce 
and maintain a strain of high-class Piles one must certainly 
feed into their veins some Black-Red blood. This should 
come from a male with yellow iegs and as pure and even a 
color as possible. Many rules for breeding these birds are 
given, but the safest and surest way is to use the most per- 
fect males of the deepest red shade, with females having too 
much color for your cockerels, and with almost white fe- 
males for your pullets. This will secure a general average 
of quality and many good birds of both sexes. When the 
color fails, introduce new blood as above mentioned and use 
the product of the cross to improve color. 




DUCKWIKG G.AME BAfJT.AM COCK. 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



13 




RKXi PILE GAMK BANTAM HEN. 



When mating your 
breeding yards of Piles, 
select a male bird that 
Is Pile bred and of the 
very highest exhibition 
qualities. 

The writer of the de- 
scription for mating 
Brown-Reds writes of 
these as follows: 

"Select a male suit- 
able for cockerel breed- 
ing in shape and reach, 
as described in the 
cockerel breeding 
Black-Red pen. The 
next and most particu- 
larpointis to see that he 
is perfectly sound in his white, free from lacing or smokiness 
on breast, and above all possessing a sound, deep bay on 
wing end; for without the latter he is of no use as a cockerel 
breeder. I have never known a male bird that was weak in 
color on wing ends to produce a single exhibition specimen; 
and this is quite as essential in breeding for pullets. There- 
fore, bear in mind that a Pile cock or cockerel, weak in his 
bays, is practically of no good whatever either as a stock 
bird or for exhibition, however good he may be in all other 
points. Next select three or four tall, stylish pullets, deep 
in breast color, short in back, and possessing plenty of 
reach, and showing the shoulder points prominently — prefer- 
ence being given to those which are nicely rosed on the 
wing, but not creamy on wing ends. From this pen I should 
expect to get sound colored cockerels, although the pullets 
would be too dark in color for exhibition; yet as stock birds 
they are invaluable, and especially so if mated back to the 
sire. In pullet breeding, the cock must be sound in wing 
ends, clear white in his wing bars and shoulder points. In 
top color I prefer'a bird of one uniform color of the darker 
or bricki.'^h color, and if laced on breast all the better. The 
hens or pullets to mate to this cock should be clear as possi- 
ble on wing and back, free from rosiness or creaminess, and 
preference being given to those possessing good salmon 
breasts, although it is quite possible to breed the very best 
pullets from hens which are pale in breast color, provided 
the body color is perfectly clear. Cockerels bred from this 
pen will be found too pale in color as exhibition birds; but 
those which are extra good in bays and whites should be 
retained as stock birds for another season." 

To strengthen your color lines, it is often necessary to 
resort to a cross with the Black-Red Game Bantam. When 
this is done, try and have a Black-Red male with high or 
yellow colored shacks, and be most particular to have the 
color rich and pure, with no bad markings, and shape the 
very best to be secured. Mate this male with three or four 
very pale colored Pile females that are as clear and clean 
a white as you can have them, of good quality, and deep 
orange yellow shanks. Select the very best males from this 
cross and use them with your Pile females to improve color. 
Those who have plenty of time and space to devote to 
their breeding should select some of the very best females 
from this cross that have dark or willow colored shanks 
and mate them to a good sound Pile bred male, and in this 
way work two lines. We advise the use of the yellow 
shanked male as a starter, because this indicates that he is 
the result of the first cross of the Black-Red and the Pile, 
which gives an advantage of one year's work. But with all 
this, we are of the opinion that the safest way for the aver- 
age breeder is to pair together his darkest females with his 



beat males for cockerels, and from these he will most likely 
have some good exhibition pullets. 

Mr. B. C. Thornton writes of Red Pile Game Bantams 
as follows : 

"They are the most beautiful in color of all Game Ban- 
tams when true to color. Not more than thirty to forty per 
cent of sound colored birds are generally obtained from the 
best matings. The rich color must be kept up with a cross 
of Black Breasted Red blood, and that is very apt to bring 
smoky white or yellow where there should be clear white, 
and it takes a long time to breed it out. My plan would be 
to breed two yards of these also, as, in fact, you will have 
to do with all varieties of Game Bantams to get a large per 
cent of really high class exhibition cockerels and pullets. 

"In mating for cockerel breeding I should use a good, 
sound colored male bird with good, sound colored wings, 
rich crimson on back and wing coverts or wing-bow, and 
good color in wing bay or what is known as the diamond; 
white breast clear of lacing, good white on wing butts and 
wing bar, showing the markings on wing very distinctly. 

"Females for this mating should have a nice salmon 
breast, fine golden hackle (a trifle rosy on wing will not 
hurt), the balance of bird a good white, not smoky. 

"In breeding for pullets the cock bird need not be so 
rich in color, but the wing bay or flight coverts should be 
deep bay color, and all the white should be as clear white 
as obiainahle. The females should have good salmon 
breasts, nice lemon or straw colored hackles, and be per- 
fectly clear white, free from yellow, smoky or stone color on 
back, wings and tail." 

THE PILE WHEATEN HEN 
Has a very bright eye and a golden hackle; breast pale fawn, 
at times almost cream colored; thighs and upper part of 
body light buff or lemon color; back and wings the color of 
wheat; primaries, white; secondaries, outer web wheaten. 
inner web white; tail White, upper feathers edged with 
wheaten color; legs and feet are often light willow, but yel- 
low is preferred. 

THE DUCKWING WHEATEN HEN 

Differs from the above as follows: Hackle and head color 
is white, or white slightly striped with black; breast light 
fawn; back and wings pale cinnamon; primaries black; tail 
and legs same as a Red Wheaton. 



RED WHEATEN HENS 

Have a red face, red ear-lobes and wattles, horn colored 
beak, golden hackle, fawn or cream colored breast, light 
buff thighs and upper part of body; back and wings pale 
cinnamon or wheat color. From this they get their name. 
Primaries black; secondaries, outer web wheaten, inner web 
black; tail black, \ipper feathers produced with wheateu 
color; legs and feet willow color. 

WHITE AND BLACK GAME BANTAMS. 

We now have some beautiful quality of White and Black 
Game Bantams. In our first edition of "The Bantam Fowl," 
we wrote: "Some very fine White Game Bantams with 
dark legs, sports from Brown-Reds and Birchens, make 
their appearance. If these were bred to the White Game 
Bantams with yellow beaks and legs, a fine line of well sta- 
tioned birds could be produced. The White Game should be 
pure white in color, with yellow legs and beak. They orig- 
inally came from the Brown-Red Bantams, as did the Black 
Games; both have the same common ancestry. The Blacks 
should be pure, lustrous black, with black legs and dark pur- 
ple face, beak dark horn or black, eyes black or dark 
brown. These two varieties could be made most attractive 
if attentioh were paid to them." 



14 



THE BANTAM FOWL- 



Since that time, within five short years, fanciers of 
Game Bantams have produced and shown both pure White 
Game Bantams with yellow shanlvs and pure Black Game 
Bantams with black shanks, that have quite as much quality 
in them as is seen in average specimens of other varieties 
of Game Bantams. The eyes of both these varieties should 
be red; the plumage of each clear and true, with 
no foreign color in either. These are the results of breeding 
sports as above mentioned, the Whites to Piles and the 
Black to Black Birchen females that have but little or no 
color, and they must possess the highest qualities as Game 
Bantams or they have but little value. 



ASEEL GAME BANTAMS. 
These are of all colors, such as White, Black, Black- 
Red, Gray, and Spangled. They are fashioned very much 




A P.\IR OF WHITE ASKEL GAME BANTAMS 



after the Malay type. Their necks are strong and muscular; 
legs short; plumage hard and short; thighs very strong and 
rather scantily feathered. The male weighs about two 
pounds. The female should resemble the male. Ear-lobes 
and wattles on both should be very small; back quite 
straight, carriage upright. 



INDIAN GAME BANTAMS. 

These are just like the Indian Games, Laced and 
White. Indian Game Bantams originated with Mr. Kntwisle, 
of England, who exhibited them there. We clip the following 
contribution from his pen to the "Feathered World," En- 
gland: 

"In passing we may here remark that the writer of these 
pages, after year.^ of labor, was the original producer of all 
the varieties of Malay Bantams, Indian Game, and Aseel 
Bantams, and that to the best of his knowledge all these 
varieties now e.xtant have sprung from the birds he bred 
down from the large varieties of which they are miniatures. 

"The first time we find they were exhibited was at ihe 
Royal Yorkshire Jubilee Show, held in Saltaire Pai'k, on 
Saturday, Sept. 10th, 1887, where my father won 3rd with 



a cockerel in Class 74, Sebright or any other variety cock- 
erel. There were thirteen entries in the class and the 
awards were made by Mr. Edwin Wright. The report of 
this cockerel in "Stockkeeper" for Sept. 16th, 1887, says: 
'Third (Entwisle), a nice stylish little Indian Game.' 

"These quotations, I think quite endorse my statement. 
Mr. Gott asks when we sold Indian Game Bantams to him. 
The first were on Oct. 27th, 1890, when my father sold Mr. 
J. A. Gott a pen, along with other hens, for £5. I sold also 
to Mr. J. A. Gott, on Dec. 10th, 1894, an Indian cockerel for 
15s. This was far the smallest I have yet seen." 

Indian Game Bantams of excellent quality are now bred 
and shown. As stated above they are the miniature of the 
large Indian Game, and should favor them. But the present 
Indian Game Bantam appears to favor the Malay more than 
the Indian Game, being much too high on leg, and long in 
back. This is altogether wrong. In every re- 
spect the Bantam should be an exact minia- 
ture of the Indian Game fowl, and as small as 
possible. 

In judging Indian Game Bantams, shape 
should be the. first essential point, then color 
and size; but however good in the two latter 
points, if the bird does not possess the neces- 
sary shape and build it should not be coun- 
tenanced in the exhibition pen. Let type be 
your first aim, then color. The required size 
can always be obtained by inbreeding. I will 
describe what I should consider an ideal bird: 
Cock — Head rather long and thick; skull broad 
and inclined to be a little beetle browed. Neck, 
medium length and slightly arched. Beak, well 
curved, strong, giving the bird a powerful ap- 
pearance. Face, red, fairly smooth and fine 
in texture, and dotted over with black feath- 
ers. Comb, peacombed or triple, small and 
neat, closely set on head, and bright red in 
color. Eyes, full and prominent, pale red pre- 
ferred, eyebrows slightly arched. General 
shape, thick and compact; back short and flat, 
broad as possible at the shoulders and taper- 
ing towards the tail, but not flat sided. Breast, 
deep and wide, but well rounded, and breast 
bone straight. Wings, short, clasping the body 
closely and firmly, carried well forward, high 
at points, and well tucked in behind. Tail, 
medium length, slightly drooping; tail feathers proper, hard 
and close fitting, wilh a few side hangers or tail coverts 
narrow and glossy. Thighs, much shorter than Malays, 
stout, and well rounded. Shanks, medium length, strong 
and nicely rounded; closely fitting scales, and a deep, rich 
yellow in color, the richer the better. Feet, strong; toes, 
straight, long and well spread; back toe carried well on the 
.(ground. Plumage, hard and glossy. General appearance, 
powerful, sprightly, very vigorous, bold, upright in carriage, 
wilh the back sloping towards the tail; flesh firm and hard 
iu handling. 



MALAY GAME BANTAMS. 

The following description of Malay Bantams has been 
furnished me by Mr. H. Fabian Russell, of London, En- 
gland, the secretary of the Malay Bantam Club. He also 
sends the illustration of the group of Malay Bantams. 

It is with pleasure I write a few notes on this most inter- 
esting and now popular variety of Bantams in England. Its 
strong personality and, I may say, peculiarity lends itself 
an easy variety to understand for a beginner and I can 
strongly recommend Malay Bantams to anyone who is anx- 



THE BANTAM FOWI,. 



15 



■m/ 



lous to become prominent in tlie prize list in a compara- 
tively short time. 

Malay Bantams compare very favorably with and are 
fully equal to if they do not surpass the exhibition Game 
Bantam in beauty of color, and their rich yellow legs give 
a most strilting appearance. Malay Bantam hens make most 
excellent mothers and the chickens are strong and as 
healthy again as Game Bantams and need no special treat- 
ment. Given their liberty they require little feeding: being 
good foragers they always seem to find something to pick up. 

The late Mr. W. F. Entwisle, the originator of this vari- 
ety, no doubt experienced great difficulty in bantamizing 
the huge Malay fowl, and of course in doing so was obliged 
to make use of alien blood, viz., the Game Bantam, Aseel, 
and I believe Indian Game, the former no doubt accounting 
for the large percentage of red eyes and the gamey charac- 
ter found in many. Of later years they have been crossed 
back a good deal with the large Malay and 
have suffered in size somewhat, but have 
been greatly improved in type and general 
character. 

The first colors produced were the 
Reds, then Whites, and Red Piles; follow- 
ing these the Pheasant (resembling the In- 
dian Game in marking, and is now not 
recognized as a standard color). Blacks 
and Spangles have since been produced 
and added to the already varied list since 
1899. As in the large Malays, the Reds 
are the favorites and their popularity is 
yearly increasing. The Spangles, too, are 
taking well and, although they have been 
before the public so short a time, they 
come, I think, a good second. Whites, 
Piles, and Blacks follow up in the order 
named. The following fully describes wh^ 
is desired in a Malay Bantam: 

Heaii and Neck. Beak strong and 
hooked. Comb of cocks, small, set well 
forward, shaped like a half walnut, as free 
from irregularities as possible. Combs of 
hens the less the better, in fact, very 
often none showing, which I consider 
preferable; skull very broad, with deep 
set eyes and overhanging eyebrows, giv- 
ing a morose and cruel expression. Wat- 
tles and deaf ears small, the bare skin of the throat run- 
ning some way down neck. Neck long, carried very upright, 
with slight but characteristic curve. Hackle full at base of 
skull, otherwise very short and scanty. 

Body. Wide and square at shoulders, tapering to tail; 
shoulders wide and prominent, carried well up, and usually 
bare of feathers at the points; back fairly long, sloping, and 
convex in outline; saddle narrow and drooping, the feathers 
short and scanty; breast deep and full and generally bare of 
feathers at point of breastbone. The body should present 
a cut up appearance from behind. 

Legs and Feet. Thighs long and muscular, with but lit- 
tle feather, leaving hocks perfectly exposed; shanks long and 
beautifully scaled, flat at hocks and gradually rounding to 
setting on of spur, a downward curve in spur to be preferred; 
toes long and straight, the back to lie close to ground. 

Tail of cocks of moderate length, sickles narrow and but 
slightly curved, with a fair number of side hangers. The 
tall of hens should bo short and square and carried slightly 
ibove the horizontal line and well played as if flexible at 
joint or insertion. The flesh of all Malay Bantams should 
be extremely firm and hard, their plumage of extraordinary 



hardness and lustre, their general appearance fierce, tall, 
gaunt, high in front, and drooping behind. The feathers 
should give the appearance of only just enougli to cover the 
body. 

Size. Small as is compatible with the preservation ol 
Malay type. 

The outline of cocks to present three successive curves, 
the first composed of head and neck, the second forms the 
back and the third the tail. 

Color. In Red and Spangles the beak to be yellow or 
horn yellow preferred, in all other varieties yellow; comb, 
face, wattles, throat and deaf ears brilliant red; eyes, pearl, 
yellow or daw; shanks rich orange yellow. There are two 
colors of red cocks, the bright and dark. 

Bright Red Cocks. Hackle, saddle, back and wing bow 
rich bright orange red. Breast and under parts a rich black, 
wing bar black, secondaries briglit bay; flights black on 




MR. GEOFFREY JOYCE'S INDIAN G.\ME B.^VNTAMS. 

Cock 2d, Birmingham, 1898, and 1st Liverpool, 1899; Hen 2d, Liverpool, 1898, etc, 
By Courtesy of Feathered World, 

inner web with red edging on outside, tail green black. Hens 
to match above are generally partridge color, with yellow 
hackles striped with black. 

Dark Red Cocks. Hackle, saddle, back and wing bow 
dark purplish crimson or maroon. Breast and under parts 
a rich raven black. Wing bar black. Secondaries dark 
bay. Hens to match above any shade of cinnamon or 
w'heaten with dark bay or purplish hackle, tlin body color to 
he as even as possible. 

Pile Malay Bantam cock should be the same as the 
Reds, but where described black to be pure white. The hens 
to have salmon colored breasts and golden yellow hackles, 
all other parts pure white. 

Spangle cocks to he same as Reds, but evenly spangled 
with black and white, showing a good percentage of white in 
flights and taiil. 

The hens to he any shade of cinnamon or wheaten, wltj 
black and while spangles, white predominating. 

Black Malay Bantams should be a glossy green black 
and quite free from any rustiness. (Yellow legs and beak to 
be insisted upon.) 



16 



THE'BANTAM FOWL. 



The above description is practically a repetition ot that 
adopted by the Malay Bantam Club. 

I consider the first thing to look for in judging Malay 
Bantams is general outline and character, in which I Include 
upright carriage, curvature of neck and back. Horizontal 
carriage of body is a very serious fault and makes an other- 
wise good specimen a very bad Malay Bantam. 

Head and eyes are the next most important points. 
Straight heads, meaty coiiibs, large eyes and wattles are all 
most objectionable and I consider should go greatly against 
an exhibit in the show pen. 

Red eyes (perhaps one of the most difficult blemishes to 
stamp out ) really spoil a Malay Bantam, although hardly 



set well forward, showing a good width between eye and top 
of skull; the back of comb finishing about level with the eye. 
Short and narrow in feather, sound breast color (although 
after the first or second season very often brown feathers 
show just under throat and it is not necessary to discard a 
bird for this fault, but cockerels when fully out in feather 
should be as sound as possible); tall and standing on good 
sound legs and feet. 

The hens to be even in color, well up at shoulder and 
short in body and wings. 

There is no hard and fast rule, but of course as in mat- 
ing all breeds of poultry, etc., specimens having similar 
faults should not be mated. 




PILE MALA^ 
BANTAM COCK. 



BLACK MALAY 
BANTAM HEN. 



RED MALAY 
B.ANTAM COCKEREL. 



RED MALAY 
BANTAM PULLET. 



SPANGLE MALAY 
BANTAM COCK. 



WHITE MALAY 
BANTAM HEN. 



The Bautams shown in this illustration were bred by members of the Malay Bantam Club as given below: 

Pile Cock — Bred by and property of Mr. Edgar Beauford, Woodbridge, Suffolk, England. Winner 1st and Special, Club Show 
(New Cross), 1900. 

Black Hen— Bred by and property of Mr. G. E. Moore, Greenwich, Eng. 

Red Cockerel — Bred by and property of Messrs. R. & H. Fabian Russell, London. England. Winner 1st and Special, Club Show 
(Grand International Show), 1901. Only time exhibited. 

Red Pullet— Bred by and property of Messrs. R. & H. Fabian Russell, London, England. Winner 1st and Special Challenge 
Cup and Gold Medal, Club Show (Grand International Show), 1901. 

Spangled Cock— The property of Mr. Wm. Arkwright, Sutton, Scarsdale, England. Winner 1st, Crystal Palace, 1900; 1st, Man- 
chester, 1900. 

White Hen— Bred by and property of Mr. Harry Jones, Ipswich, England. Winner 1st, Stowmarket, 1897; 1st, Club Show (Wood- 
bridge), 1897; 1st, Club Show (Winbledon), 1898; 1st and 2d, Special Club Show (Woodbridge), 1899; 1st, Manchester, 
19(X). Only times exhibited. 



to be considered a disqualification; and light yellow, white 
or pearl eyes should be greatly encouraged. 

Of course, reach, length of neck, etc., are all most essen- 
tial to their general attractive appearance; in fact Without 
these one cannot well imagine a Malay Bantam. 

BREEDING MALAYS. 

And now with regard to breeding, there are many 
different ways so as to keep down size and yet retain the 
true character; some say the cock should be the more typi- 
cal and some vice versa. 

My advice is — get both as near perfection as possible, 
and from experience gained I think that the cock bird should 
excel in head, with strong beak, neat comb, broad In front, 



In breeding White Malay Bantams, cocks with straw 
color on back or wings should be discarded, also green or 
willow tinge on legs, a fault which is very prevalent in 
this color. 

Pile Malay Bantams ot good color seem difficult to obtain 
and although I am strongly against any cross with the Game 
Bantam for reducing size, etc., I feel Inclined to digress in 
this instance. Many are of opinion they may be produced 
by crossing the White and Red Malay Bantam, but I have 
never seen very good results; one may breed some fair col- 
ored pullets, but seldom, if ever, cockerels. The pullets 
often have the desired salmon-colpred breast, but the neck 
hackle is nearly always faulty, in fact generally quite white. 
The cockerels of this cross are as a rule nothing more than 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



17 



very bad colored White Malay Bantams with straw-colored 
back and a few red feathers on shoulders and wings. 

By mating a White Malay Bantam cock with a partridge- 
colcred heu with golden hackle I have had better results than 
any other pure Malay cross, but as one might expect, these 
have been pullets. 

There are a few good Pile Malay Bantams in existence 
and no doubt by careful mating may be improved, but unfor- 
tunately they are not numerous. I have not seen any from 
which one could confidently expect to produce a sound col- 
ored typical specimen. 

If a new strain of Pile Malay Bantams were desired I 
should advise the following way of producing same: 

Obtain a Red Pile Game Bantam cock with a strong 
head and light eye as possible; see that his color is sound, 
not only his top color, but his wing ends a rich chestnut, 
right to the end of feather and his breast a clear white, quite 
free from lacing, ticking or smokiness. These points are 
most important, as to obtain sound rich color is our only 
reason for introducing the Game Bantam blood. 

To this Pile Game Bantam cock mate White or White- 
Red bred Malay Bantam hens, say two of each, all excelling 
in head properties and curves and having good reach and up- 
right carriage. If the hens of the White-Red cross sliow fox- 
iness on wings this will be found useful for the cockerel 
breeding. I recommend the cock to be the Pile, as it is 
always considered the male bird gives the color and female 
shape and from experience I have found this to be so. 

The produce of this cross would show a good percentage 
of faulty combs and gamey type, but the color should be 
fairly good and possibly one or two really passable Pile 
Malay Bantams would be the result. It is surprising some- 
times how a iirst cross with entirely different varieties and 
of different colors as the above will alter the color of produce 
of the one and yet still hardly affect the shape; for instance, 
it is not improbable that the above mating would throw 
almost apparently pure Game Bantams and on the other 
hand typical Malay Bantams. 

Select the richest and soundest colored cockerel having a 
good comb, broad in front, and mate him to the hens used in 
the first crossing; it would also be advisable to run with him 
a partridge colored Malay Bantam hen with a golden hackle. 
From this mating the type should be greatly improved and 
color well maintained. 

The pullet of the Game-Malay Bantam cross having 
good hackle color and with most Malay type might be put 
with a Red Malay Bantam cock with advantage. He 
should be of a good, deep, rich color, sound bars and quite 
free from any rustiness on breast and thighs, preferably of 
a partridge-color breeding strain. 

Do not on any account use the Game Bantam again, be- 
cause it will take some time to effectually stamp out the 
objectionable faults introduced by the one cross and another 
would be fatal to the type. 

The produce of the Game-Malay Bantam cross must not 
be inter-bred, as no good could possibly be gained by so 
doing. 

I must warn any one who introduces the Pile Game Ban- 
tam for Pile Malay Bantam breeding to do so very care- 
fully and to keep a strict note of how every bird is bred, 
always remembering to select the most typical to breed from, 
particularly the male bird; any experimenting should be 
done with the hen. 

Pile Malay Bantams have been produced and exhibited 
by Messrs. Edgar Branford, H. Jones and G. E. Moore. 

The chief faults found in the present day Pile Malay 
Bantams are the lacing and ticking on the breast and throat 
of the males and paleness of hackle color of the females. 



Spangle Malay Bantams were obtained by the Red- 
White cross (not by the introduction of the Spangle Azeel 
as thought by some) and are not difficult to breed, and by- 
careful selection most striking and beautiful combination of 
color may be tbe result. 

Black Malay Bantams were either sports from Whites or 
the Red-White cross. They must be a rich glossy black and 
not rusty in color. 

The legs and beak should be quite free from sootlness, 
which very often asserts itself and is a very difficult point to 
stamp out, many coming quite black. 

A cross back with the Whites will improve both color 
of feather and legs, but as might be expected, a percentage 
of this union would be mottled. 

Mr. G. E. Moore at one time had in his possession some 
very good Black Malay Bantams, rivalling all other colors 
in Malay character, in fact I think one hen in particular 
excelled any I have seen for width of skull, strength of beak 
and brow. 

The accompanying drawing is by Mr. J. W. Ludlow (the 
well-known poultry, etc., artist) of winning Malay Bantams 
from sketches supplied by myself, and I think give an excel- 
lent idea what typical Malay Bantams are. 

In conclusion I trust the time is not far distant when we 
shall see the American bred Malay Bantams alongside of our 
own on the show pen and, as in other varieties, well up on 

"'^ P"^^ l'«'- H. FABIAN RUSSELL. 

OI,D ENGLISH GAME BANTAMS. 
BY P. PROUD, ENGLAND. 

There is no other breed of Bantams that awakened 
such interest, or caused such a boom in the fancy during the 
year 1S98 as Old English. For years this charming variety 
has been hanging fire, as it were, but like all other new 
breeds, once they are launched in the exhibition world, and 
classes provided for them, their popularity is quickly assured 
by such a novelty lover as the English exhibitor. And why^ 
I ask, should not the Old English Game Bantam find equally 
as much favor as the large breed of Old English Game, from 
which they have descended. To-day in the North-country 
shows and at all the big events throughout England, there 
are no classes which fill better or pay better than Old Eng- 
lish Game, and I have no hesitation in saying that with 
proper attention in breeding, the Old English Game Bantam 
would soon become a very popular breed. 

I have been greatly amused at the correspondence which 
has lately appeared in the columns of The Feathered World, 
regarding the origin of Old English Game Bantams, and 
whilst reading this correspondence, and enjoying my even- 
ing pipe, with my feet on the fender, my thoughts have gone 
back nearly thirty years to my school days, when I first 
entered the ranks of Bantam fanciers. My first purchase I 
well remember, even yet, was a pair of lovely little yellow- 
legged spangled or speckled Bantams, for which I paid the 
modest sum of Is 4d each, and these were spangled beauti- 
fully broken in color, cobby in shape, and nice flow of 
feather, perhaps not quite so small as the present day type,^ 
but otherwise quite their equal. At that time I was only 
eight years of age, and I also remember, as if it were only 
yesterday, the schoolmaster examining us in history one 
sultry afternoon in July, and as we each toed the mark 
around the black board, and it came to my turn, the master 
in solemn tones asked me who was the originator of the 
Old English Bantams; and in those days I had a lot of 
George Washington's disposition about me, and could not 
tell a lie, so I replied, "Please, sir, it wasn't me." At this 
he smiled, and said, "I am quite sure of that, Pringle. But 
you keep Bantams, don't you?" I answered, "Yes, but I 



18 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



bought them from Richard Noah, at the Mill, and I believe 
he got them from his grandfather, who kept them, so he 
says, ever since he was a lad." The master did not ask me 
any further questions that day. This was my first experi- 
ence, and ultimately I gave up the Spangles in favor of the 
modern Black-Reds, which I have kept on and off ever since. 

As an example of the rapid strides the Old English Ban- 
tam has made, I need only refer to Whitehaven Show of 
November 11th, 1898, where a Black-Red cockerel which car- 
ried off first prize was claimed at catalogue price £10, al- 
though had this bird been seen running about in any of the 
back yards twelve months previously it might have been 
bought for eighteen pence. Then at Birmingham Show, 
three weeks later, the third prize bird was bid up to £11 lis, 
and which a couple of years ago would not have fetched as 
many shillings. 

I will now try and describe what I consider should 
constitute an ideal Old English Game Bantam. 

Head medium length. Beak strong, slightly curved. 
Eye large, fiery red and bold. Comb small and single and 
of fine texture. Ear-lobes free from white. Face and wat- 
tles bright healthy red. Neck fairly long, and well set on 
between square and prominent shoulders. Neck hackle to 
come down well onto the shoulders. Chest broad and full. 
Breastbone straight (this is very important), the breast 
being firm and well developed. Back short, broad at shoul- 
ders, and tapering towards the stern. Wings short, first 
meeting under tail and fitting closely to the body, and should 
be full, otherwise the bird has the appearance of what is 
termed flat-sided. Tail should be directly in opposition to 
the Modern Game Bantam, viz., main or primary feathers 
fairly long and strong; sickles broad, good length and nicely 
bowed, with four or five side-hangers of medium length cov- 
ering the width of the tail each side. Legs short, thick, 
muscular in thighs, well set apart; shanks medium length, 
round in front — not flat (which shows weakness), and in 
Blaf-k-Reds, Spangles and Blue Duns the color of legs should 
be white or yellow, white for preference. Toes, fairly long 
and muscular, straight; the back toe to be carried in a direct 
line with the middle toe, and should grasp the ground firmly, 
the point of the toe being flat on the ground. Carriage, 
quick and sprightly, with a bold, defiant look. The bird in 
the hand should handle hard and firm; the harder the better. 

Points of Color in Black-Reds. — Cocks: Face and eyes. 
red; beak, white or yellow to match the legs; neck and 
saddle hackles, bright orange red; back and wing-bow. deep 
red; breast and thighs, black; wing-bar, blue-black; wing- 
end or bay, rich chestnut; tail, glossy black. Although 
white in tail is to some degree a fault, it should only count 
against the bird very slightly in the show pen. 

The hen to match this cock should be either partridge 
or wheaten. The former should be the same as the cock in 
face, eyes, beak and legs; neck, lemon or light orange, with 
a narrow black stripe on each side of the shaft; breast, rich 
salmon, shading lighter towards the thighs; back and wings, 
partridge color, or a brownish drab of one even color all 
over, and free from rustiness and shaftiness; tail, black, 
except the two top feathei-s, which should correspond with 
the body color. The wheaten hen should match the cock in 
facp, eyes, and legs; neck, bright golden; breast and thighs, 
pale fawn; body and wings darker shade or wheat color; 
tail, black, with the top or outer feather tinged with 
wheaten. Size: Cocks, IS to 25 ounces; hens, 15 to 20 
ounces. 

Spangles. — Both the cock and hen should resemble each 
other in every respect as to color, viz., face, head and eye, 
bright red; plumage throughout, black red or blue, evenly 
spangled with white; tail, black and white; legs, white or 
yellow. 



Black-Red cocks may either be bred from partridge or 
wheaten hens. Strange to say, the soundest and brightest 
colored cocks are to be bred from a partridge hen; if the 
cock bird is also partridge bred, this is important. Part- 
ridge bred cocks, as a rule, are much brighter in color than 
wheaten bred cocks, and are frequently found to be a bit 
striped in hackle, and it is these bright colored birds that 
find most favor in the show pen. 

To breed sound colored partridge hens I would proceed 
on the same line of color as stated in modern Black-Red 
Bantam pullet breeding, care being taken that your male 
bird is not wheaten bred. If he is, your labor will be lost. 
To breed partridge pullets you must have a partridge bred 
cock bird, and don'c you forget it. A wheaten bred cock, 
with partridge hens, spoils the color in both wheaten and 
partridge chickens. To breed wheaten bens I should select 
a good colored wheaten hen and put her to a wheaten bred 
cock. The cocks from wheaten hens are generally a shade 
darker than the partridge bred birds, and are more inclined 
to show red in breast more or less. 

In breeding Spangles I think if even-colored birds are 
selected on both sides, the produce both in cockerels and 
pullets will be found satisfactory, as unlike many colors, 
one pen will be found to produce good specimens of both 
sexes. Should, however, the chicks come too light in color 
the following season, I should use a partridge hen, or even 
a wheaten, although for preference I should use the part- 
ridge, as partridge bred Spangles always appear to me to be 
much harder in feather and more taking in color than 
wheaten Spangles. 

To breed evenly-spangled pullets it is best to use a 
light colored cock, but as an all around breeder, I should 
prefer a medium colored, evenly spangled bird. Blue Duns 
or Blue-Reds are only to be found here and there, although 
they are quite as pretty as the Black-Reds. In the first 
place, I think the name Blue Dun hardly correct. The blue- 
breasted red cocks I would call Blue-Red. These may be 
bred from blues on both sides, but I think one could hardly 
know what color to expect in the chicks, as they "sport" 
all ways, and require very careful breeding to get the color 
fixed. I have seen a good blue cock bred from a sound 
blue-breasted cock and wheaten hen, and I think a pullet 
could also be bred the same way, or from blues on both 
sides. A Blue-Red cock can be bred from a blue hen and a 
sound colored Black-Red cock. In fact, they will breed 
any way almost, and as color is only a secondary considera- 
tion in Old English Bantams, it is not of very great impor- 
tance how they are bred, provided the proper shape, type, 
and size are all there. 

A little advice, and then I've had my say on this variety. 
Don't try to breed Old English Game Bantams by crossing 
with the Modern Game Bantam, for it can't be done; and 
don't try and palm off a rank waster of a Modern Game 
Bantam to a judge as an Old English Game Bantam, for 
that won't wash in 1S99, although it did in 189S. It they 
have got to be Old English, let them be Old English, for 
there are hundreds of them in the country to-day, and have 
been for years. 

In judging Old English Bantams, care should be taken 
to have the proper cobby type, broad in chest, low on leg, 
firm in breast, and straight in breastbone, strong in head 
and beak, with a red fearless eye, feet well on the ground, 
and sound in back toe, with bold but graceful carriage, quick 
in movements, and ever on the alert. The tail should be 
full, and the sickles and side hangers of the cock should be 
fairly long and well curved, not whip-tailed, as is often seen. 
Dark legs, light eyes, crooked breastbones, wry-tailed, and 
duck-footed, should one and all amount to disqualification. 

P. PROUD. 



ASIATIC BANTAMS. 



The Experiences of Successful Breeders — HoviT to Mate and Judge Asiatic Bantams — Their Food and 

Care — Comparison of Brahmas and Cochins, with Full Description of 

English and American Requirements. 



Brahmas (Light, Dark and Buff). Cochins (Buff, Partridge, Cuckoo, Black and White); Japanese (Black Tailed White, Black. 
White, and Gray); Frizzles (White. Black snd Buff): Rumpless; and Burmese 




}if) > E NOW have Bantams to conform to each of the 
Asiatic varieties — both varieties of Brahmas, 
and four varieties of Cochin Bantams; also Mr. 
Hughes' Langshan Bantams. These are all of 
type and quality to conform to our American 
standard. This the result of effort put forth by 
onr earnest fanciers, wlio never rest content till 
all peculiarities are removed or changed that do not meet 
the demands of our standard. Of all things in these varieties, 
the type of the breed which they miniature should be fol- 
lowed. Have true Brahma shape and color in the Brahma 
Bantams, and see to it that your Cochin Bantams are true 
to Cochin form and color. 

BRAHMA BANTAMS. 

An English writer, in describing Brahma Bantams, tells 
us that in shape they should resemble the Cochin Bantams as 
near as possible, with the exception that the Brahma Ban- 
tam should be a trifle higher on the legs, and the hens longer 
in back and tail. This is true of all that have come from 
England here; but in our opinion, as based on the American 
standard, this is not proper, and our breeders are doing all 
thoy can to have the Brahma Bantams of American Brahma 
form; and while the task is a hard one — as we had only the 
English *ype of birds to begin with — the changes are com- 
ing each year more and more into this form. During the 
winter of 1901-1902, beginning with the Buffalo Pan-Ameri- 
can display and continuing on through the winter, the qual- 
ity shown was far nearer our Brahma type than ever before; 
and those that we have seen this fall (1902) indicate still 
closer resemblance. 

Of all things we should get rid of the extended hock 
in Brahma Bantams. We must not lose sight of the fact 
that our Standard calls vulture hocks a disqualification; and 
while the thigh may be well covered with soft feathers, stiff 
extended hocks are wrong and against the Standard law. 
The most beautiful and best finished Brahma Bantam has 
the nicely rounded hock. While we should be as lenient 
with them as possible until these new varieties are better 
finished, we should discourage all tendency toward vulture 
hocks. 

Following this in importance is size. We should begin 
to breed within the weights demanded by our standard, and 
not allow those of over weight to win simply because they 
are the best in shape or color. Three pound Brahma colored 
fowls are not Brahma Bantams. They are under-sized Brah- 
mas. and should not be classed with Bantams. Nor should 
the Bantam clubs allow such to compete. 



In describing Brahma Bantams as bred in England, Mr. 
Proud writes as follows: 

"The lig'ht cock should have a triple or pea comb; face 
and wattles red; hackles, silvery white, striped with black 
towards the bottom: the back, wings, shoulders, breast and 
thighs, white; tail, black; the top outer feathers, or what 
are termed hangers, slightly edged with white; legs, yellow, 
heavily feathered with white feathers to end of middle toe, 
the more free from black the better; beak, yellow, to match 
the legs; eyes, red or yellow. 

"The hen is white in body, with neck hackle also white, 
but plainly striped with black; the wings when opened out 
should show black in primaries, and also in under-second- 
aries; tail, also black, to match the cock; legs, feet and beak, 
yellow, and well furnished with White feathers to end of 
toes; eyes, red or yellow." 

While this described them as they come to us from En- 
gland, such hackle marking as he describes in the male 
would not meet our demand. We must have the entire hackle 
striped, as in our large Brahmas. or they fail in color. The 
lesser covert, too must be edged with white. 

The same writer describes Dark Brahma Bantams as 
follows: 

"The Dark Brahma cock should have a triple or pea 
comb; face, red, also wattles and lobes, latter free from 
white; beak and legs, yellow or horn color; neck hackle, 
silvery white, striped with black, the stripe to be broader 
tOTvards the bottom of hackle; breast, thighs, leg and foot 
feathering, tail, wing, butts, and shoulders, sound black; 
wing bow, back, and shoulders, silvery white; the saddle 
hackle same color, but with distinct black striping; wing 
bar and tail hangers, rich green-black; the leg and foot 
feathering to be a sound black as long as possible — the less 
white in foot feather the better, although it is a difficult 
matter to get the foot feather absolutely sound in either 
color, as black will invariably show in the foot feather of the 
Lights, but it should always be guarded against when mating 
up the breeding pen. This only refers to the cocks, as the 
hens are generally fairly sound in this respect. The dark 
hen should be identically the same as the cock in the face, 
eyes and leg; hackle, silvery-white ground color distinctly 
striped with black; tail, also black; body, breast and wing- 
color to be a nice steel-gray color, penciled with black, the 
penciling to be as distinct and as even as possible, and con- 
tinued right up to the throat and out toward the fluff behind 
the legs; the penciling and ground color being the chief and 
most important parts in Dark Brahma, together with length 
of feather, which should be as long as possible and carried 
right to the end of middle toe." 



20 



THE BANTAM FOWI.. 



LIGHT BRAHMA BANTAMS IN AMERICA. 

The Light Brahma Bantams in America should be the 
counterpart of the standard Brahma fowl. The facts as to 
its production differ somewhat as they come to us from dif- 
ferent sources. Some claim a cross with Brahma fowls and 
Japanese Bantams; others a mixture of Aseel and Cochin 
Bantams; while still others claim a direct Brahma cross with 
Cochin Bantams. If we desired to produce them we should 
prefer to depend on the Brahma-Cochin Bantam cross. The 
Brahma Bantams, as we now have them, need to be im- 
proved in size and markings. Many of them have almost 
perfect Brahma shape. The Lights lack in the penciling of 
hackle, and the Blacks in wings and tail. The Darks are 
good in color. The females lack in penciling. The Light 
Brahma Bantams of the present have fairly good Brahma 
combs, shape and body color. The under-color of most of 
them is white; the ueck hackle of males striped more or less 
toward the lower edge, not much toward the upper part of 
necks; head pure white, wings only partially black, tails 
very good in color, and coverts of many of them are edged 
with white. The females show more and better color in 
both neck and wings. Some few of the females show a ten- 
dency toward 



't -^ 




LIGHT BRAHMA BANTAM, 
BRED AND OWNED BY D. LINCOLN ORR. 



dark or slate in 
under-color. All 
have good color of 
beak and legs, and 
plenty of leg and 
toe feathering. 
With these quali- 
ties to start with 
it is quite unnec- 
essary to consider 
how to produce 

;, them. The ques- 
tion is, how shall 
we improve themV 
This is being 

■" done in several 
ways. Some have 
crossed those they 
have with the 
large B r a h m a s 
with good results. 
The winning pul- 

was a living pic- 
She was 



let at the Boston show of 1902 
ture of what may be accomplished in this way 
almost equal to any Brahma in shape and color. Some very 
handsome males have been produced in the same way. This 
cross will greatly improve hackle, wing and tail color, and 
give us the true Brahma throughout. Others have gained 
better quality by selecting the best they had in line with 
our standard demand and breeding from them, then selecting 
the best from the result of these matings. When you follow 
this plan, in selecting your breeding birds, have the darkest 
male you can secure in point of wing and undercolor of back 
and shoulders. This will help to improve the white necks. 
If in addition fo dark under-color you can have a fairly 
good neck, also tail coverts, much improvement can be 
hoped for if the females are fairly good in these points. Use 
the best colored females that it is possible to secure. Do 
not hesitate to use one very dark in under-color, for on this 
you must depend to build up your color. By following these 
colors from year to year fine Brahma markings can be pro- 
duced. The preceding is our opinion as to the proper mat- 
ings to improve color of neck, wings and tail. We also give 
the matings as recommended by Mr. W. F. Entwisle, Wake- 
field, England, to whom much credit for the production is 



due: "To breed good Light Brahma pullets, select as light 
colored a cockerel as possible, clear in body color and saddle, 
and only slightly striped in hackle, with the darkest hackled 
and blackest tailed hens possible to obtain, with white backa 
and wings. To breed cockerels, select the most perfect cock 
or cockerel you can obtain, good in hackle and saddle, very 
full-feathered, and fine in shape. Put the bird so selected 
with hens as white in wing and body as possible, even if a 
little wanting in color of hackle. These matings are not cer- 
tain in their results, but there is no more reliable rule that 
can be followed by those of little experience." 

This style of mating must produce nice, clear white 
birds, but cannot improve the black markings so much 
desired by us. 

The future popularity of these Bantams must depend 
upon our ability to have them correct in shape and color. 
White Cochin Bantams with pea combs and black shadings 
will not do. We must have true Brahma shape and mark- 
ings. The striping of hackle must equal the hackle mark- 
ings of the large Brahmas. More color must be had in wings, 
and the tail coverts must have the white lacing. As the 
standard describes the Light Brahma for shape and color, 
so must the Light Brahma Bantam be. We know that there 
is an inclination towards Cochin shape for the Brahma, but 
there is entirely too much of that already in our Brahma 
Bantams; so the tendency should be away from this as far 
as possible for better Brahma shape. As we progress in this: 
we should keep a close watch on color so as to have it better 
all the time. Comments on Brahma Bantams, which follow, 
give an insight into their origin and breeding in England. 



DARK BRAHMA BANTAMS IN AMERICA 

Dark Brahma Bantams should be a perfect counterpart 
of larger fowls of the same kind. Those we have seen shall 
be our guide in describing them. The male bird is a perfect 
Dark Brahma in color, rather large for a Bantam and with 
too much tail for a Brahma. The top color is clear and sil- 
very, and he is much better in neck than the Light Brahma. 
The body, in color, is fairly good as to the shade of black, 
but badly marked with spots of white. We have never seea 
one with a pure black breast and fluff, but the comb, beak, 
legs and leg and toe feathering in both male and female are 
very good. The females are fair as to color; penciling very 
uneven and indistinct; tails over-sized, and the birds them- 
selves larger than the Light Brahma Bantams. To bring this 
variety within bounds calls for careful study in mating them. 

Select the smallest specimens of both males and females 
which you can secure; use only females that show a ten- 
dency to penciling in their plumage, and males that are very 
clear in top color. If this mating shows improvement in the 
plumage of the female, select the best of them to breed back 
to the sire, retaining some of the males to breed with the 
females of the next cross. In this way you can build up 
your blood lines. Never breed brother and sister together. 
By following this rule for three or four seasons good results 
must be the outcome. The Darks have better general mark- 
ings to start with at the present time than the Lights. For 
this reason better results may be expected with them at an 
earlier day than with the others. Both will demand patience 
and proper handling to make them perfect Brahmas. 

When I wrote the above, five years ago, I had not the 
slightest idea that before "The Bantam Fowl" was pub- 
lished I should be at work on improving this variety of Ban- 
tams. Chance throw in my way a pair of Dark Brahma Ban- 
tams, fashioned after the description given above. With 
this pair I bred a very high quality Dark Brahma female of 
rather small size which Mr. Newton Adams, of Utica, sent 



THE BANTAM FOWI.. 



21 



me. Following this, I crossed the product of both hens. The 
Bantam hen chicks are those from Mr. Adams' hen, and vice 
versa. For five seasons has this work gone on. The best 
has been selected each year, and all that could be done to 
improve size, shape and color has been done; and even with 
all this, I can only say that I have them better than ever 
before, but not as good as I should like to have. 

Both males and females are within the weight limit. 
Some of the males have clean black breasts; all of them 
have good combs and color. The females have color and 
markings almost equal to the large Dark Brahmas. But the 
Brahma shape is not so good as could be wished for; but 
when we compare what we now have with what we had to 
begin with five years ago, the improvement is quite gratify- 
ing. There was too much hock and Cochin shape to start 
with, which was hard to contend with, and later importa- 
tions from England did not help this any, as their standard 
description would indicate. 

I have found that following advice I gave five years ago 
about breeding I have improved them wonder- 
fully, and I feel fully repaid for all the effort 
put forth in their behalf. So far no double 
matings have been made. All males and females 
have come from the one line of mating; but 
as soon as the stock in hand is equal to it I 
shall begin to build up one line to produce males 
and another for females, for in this way only 
shall we be able to have the clear black breasts ^ 
In the males and the clear color for the females, : 

Brahma Bantams are increasing in popu- 
larity with marked rapidity, and in consequence 
many of our leading shows have suffered consid- ; 
erably with some of the classes, for other vari- *: 
eties than Games, as one of our leading papers 
has already stated. 1 

We have to thank the late Mr. W. F. Ent- 
wisle, of Wakefield, for their first Introduction, ~ 
which I believe was in the year 1S85. Other 
strains have made their appearance, but I be- 
lieve that he was the first to exhibit this vari- 
ety. In manufacturing them, other breeds 
Were introduced and it will be under- 
stood that this was a necessity. One could 
not expect to get a cross direct from 
a large Brahma and, say, a Pekin Bantam 
these birds introduced w«re the Grey Aseel 
Booted Bantam. The latter I consider was a mistake 
and one that gives Brahma Bantam breeders considerable 
trouble to this day. Any breeder of the Booted Bantams will 
have noticed the great prepotency of this variety, with his 
legs close together, vulture hocked, and worse still, a space 
without feathers on the shanks Just under the hock. I draw 
attention to this fact for the guidance of our new fanciers, 
as traces of this Booted Bantam blood appear in almost 
every hatch, although the parents may not show any signs 
of these defects. It is also a curious thing that those defects 
are much more strongly marked in the cockerels than in the 
pullets. 



matured. The others fl-om the same lot were much larger, 
coarse in bone and some nearly double in weight. I am not 
going to tell you what breed of hen I mated with him, but 
I managed to get eighteen chickens from the pair. The first 
season I had not a single gray one amongst them, but there 
were two pullets excellent in shape, good foot feathers and 
excellent Brahma heads and combs. In color they were 
something like very bad colored Light Brahmas with a fair 
amount of brown in them. I mated these two with the six 
and one-half pound cock, and the next season every chick 
hatched was a good gray color, but only three showed much 
sign of penciling. However, with careful selection, always 
choosing the pullets with the finest bone, I managed to get 
one fit for exhibition in 1889. I was very proud of her. She 
weighed thirty-two ounces when in full feather. I won a 
first prize with her in a mixed class the first time I exhibited 
her. I then had several successful seasons with this variety, 
and in 1893 I bred what I believe to be (and it was also the 
opinion of many of our best judges) the most perfect Dark 




LIGHT AND DARK BRAHMA BANTAMS. 



By Courtesy of Feathered Vi'ortd. 



Among 
and the 



ENGLISH DARK BRAHMA BANTAMS. 

I did not commence to manufacture my strain of Dark 
Brahmas until 18S4. The cockerel that I commenced with 
was one of a well known large strain. He was hatched late 
In the season and reared on foods heavy in flesh formers, 
but deficient in bone forming material. He was quite a great 
success and weighed six and one-half pounds when fully 



Brahma Bantam ever exhibited, "Pownall Pride." An ex- 
cellent portrait of this bird appears in "Entwisle's Ban- 
tams," drawn by our popular poultry artist, Mr. Ludlow. I 
still have this little bird and she is in the best possible 
health and weighs under twenty ounces. Although a fat old 
hen she won 1st Crystal Palace and cup Fairfield in 1893, and 
a large number of prizes the following two seasons at our 
leading shows. 

The great difficulty in breeding Dark Brahma Bantams 
is to get hard feather, so many of the chickens coming soft 
and satiny, and such quality of feathers seldom carries much 
penciling. I say seldom, as I have had one or two speci- 
mens with this satiny surface that carried remarkable pen- 
ciling, but it is the exception and not the rule, and such 
birds are not to be relied upon in the breeding pens. In 
breeding Brahma Bantams it is necessary to mate up sepa- 
rate pens for cockerels and pullets, and you can not expect 
first-class pullets, however good in penciling your hens are, 
from a cock perfect in his breast and fiuft, nor will you get 
good cockerels from a perfect colored cock and heavily laced 
hens. The mating is the same required in the larger varie- 
ties, with the exception that the neck and legs should be 
shorter in proportion than those accepted in the larger vari- 
ety. This is most important, as it gives the Bantam "make- 



22 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 




DARK BRAHMA BANTAM COCK, SULTAN. 
BRED BV MR. BUTTEKWORTH. 



up" necessary for 
the show pens. 

The Dark Brah- 
ma Bantam cock 
should have head 
feathers of good, 
clear white, d i s- 
tinctly striped with 
black, the stripes 
getting wider down 
to the shoulders 
and back. The back 
and wing bow 
should be clear 
white, well striped 
with black, and the 
stripes increasing 
in width on the tail 
coverts. The breast, 
thigh, fluff, shank 
and foot feathers 
should be as black 
as possible. The 
tail is black, but a 
narrow white edge 
to the sickles is 

by many judges. 

black; wing-bars, 
green; shanks as 



considered a point in their favor 
The wing-butts and shoulders are 
tail coverts and side sickles, beetle 
yellow as possible, generally a dusky yellow; beak, horn- 
colored; comb, wattles and lobes, bright red; the comb 
small and triple; eyes, red. Hen, white on head and evenly 
striped with rich black on her hackle. The tail should be 
black, slightly marked with gray, the rest of the body one 
shade of slate gray, with dark, almost black, pencilings. 
There are often other shades of gray in the winners, but the 
slate gray birds I find retain their colors longer than those 
with light ground color. The Brahma Bantam is quite dis- 
tinct from the Cochin, and must be active, lively and spir- 
ited. 

ENGLISH LIGHT BRAHMA BANTAMS. 

We owe this introduction into our poultry yards to the 
same source as the Darks, as they were manufactured at the 
same time, and I know of no other strain than the ones in 
England, although having been in the hands of various 
breeders for some years, who having different ideas as to 
what they should have, have changed them so much that 
they now look like distinct strains when they meet at the 
exhibitions. Light Brahma Bantams are much easier to 
breed than the Darks, although not so taking to the eye of 
many fanciers. They are certainly easier to meet with, as 
the Darks are now very scarce indeed. Light Brahma Ban- 
tams should be exact copies of their larger brothers and sis- 
ters in miniature, with the exception that they should be 
shorter in leg and neck. These points are of great import- 
ance, as they give the Bantam "make-up" required. 

In mating for show cockerels a perfect colored show 
cockerel very sharp and dense in his hackle markings, 
mated with' a hen very pure in her white and in hackle 
rather deficient in marking for the show pen, will breed 
what you require. 

For the production of show pullets you require a per- 
fect colored hen very sharp and intensely black in her hackle 
striping, mated with a cockerel lightly striped in hackle 
and a good, clear white. If you follow this advice you will 
get both cockerels and pullets that are good, typical speci- 
mens in color. 



The Light Brahma Bantam cock should have a pure 
white head, a pure white hackle, the lower part distinctly 
striped with black, the breast, shoulders, wing, back and 
thighs pure white. The fluff is white, but often the under 
fluff is gray, and such specimens are very useful in the 
breeding pen when the hackles are growing weak in striping. 
The saddle is generally slightly striped, but this should only 
be lightly marked, and not too much of it. The primaries 
and secondaries should show black on their inside when the 
wing is opened. The outer feathers of the tail should be 
slightly edged with white and it is in the bird's favor if the 
sickles are also laced with white. The toes, shanks and 
scales should be bright yellow or orange, also the beak. 

The hen should have a pure white head and very darkly 
striped hackle; breast, thighs, wings and body all pure 
white, the primaries and secondaries showing black, like 
the cock, the tail black, with white lacing or edging on the 
upper feathers. The strongest birds have always bright red 
eyes and are to be preferred to the yellow-eyed ones. 

R. BUTTERWORTH. 

EXPERIEN'CE WITH DARK BR.i.HMA BANTAMS. 
BY PHILANDER WILLIAMS. 

Just how to bring the Dark Brahma Bantams to the 
highest perfection of color and penciling is the most impor- 
tant point. They like the Partridge Cochin Bantam, will be 
valued in proportion to their high qualities of color and 
fine finish of penciling. The fine gray color of the Dark 
Brahma female and the delicate dark penciling must be most 
perfect in these Bantams or else they are of no value. We lay 
before our readers the advice of experts who have shown 
their ability to successfully handle the large specimens^ 
Below are the words of the time-honored Mr. Philander 
Williams, of Taunton, Mass., who donates his experience 
for our use: 

"In regard to Dark Brahma Bantams, I would say t 
know nothing. Of course, they are produced from a cross 
of some varieties and it is evident that they have not been 
bred long enough to have the color established. I see no. 
way to get the color but to breed them together and then 
select each year such specimens as you tWnk will improve 
the color. I think the proper way to breed Dark Bantama 
is by a double mating and breeding in, although I never did 
this. The reason, I will tell you further on. I always have 
mated to breed nicely penciled pullets. I have always triei 




T. F. MCGREW'S DARK BRAHMA BANTAM, 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



23 



to have a nicely striped hackle and saddle on the male, but 
prefer him mottled considerably on breast and fluff. You 
will remember when the females were quite brown, but now 
you see quite often a nice silver gray hen with scarcely any 
brown, and I believe this has been brought about by light 
colored males and breeding in. I never have dared buy a 
male because I did not know his breeding, and unless you 
do know how a male was bred he would probably spoil the 
color of your females. 

"I give you a little experience. Last season I found my 
males had poor hackles and saddles, so much so that I was 
compelled to buy a male. I mated him, but you may be 
sure I had other matings of my old stock. I did not expect 
to get any well penciled pullets from the new cockerel and 
I was not disappointed. Cockerels are good, and an im- 
provement, but the pullets are way off. Now, I do not care 
what the breeder says about the breeding of the cockerel, 
and I did not ask him a word. I know he was not bred out 
of nicely penciled females. But you take this cock (now) 
and mate him with nice shaped females with little or no 
penciling and you will get splendid cockerels. I said I never 
dai-ed mate to breed cockerels, because they would be good 
for nothing as breeders and one might be tempted to breed 
them because they would be so handsome, and thus lose 
years in breeding penciling in females. I see no way for you 
to do only to breed the Dark Brahma Bantam and select 
each year the lightest colored cockerels and, what I call, 
work them up. You can do it, but it will take time. Part- 
ridge Cochins are the same as Dark Brahmas in breeding." 

DARK BRAHMA BANTAM BREEDING. 
BY H. A. MANSFIELD. 

Mr. H. A. Mansfield, of Waltham, Mass., writes me as 
follows: 

"Yours of the ISth at hand, asking me how I would pro- 
ceed to bring Dark Brahma Bantams to as fine color and 
markings as shown in my best specimens of standard Dark 
Brahmas. In reply I must say that I would never expect 
to accomplish that while at the same time I was trying to 
dwarf them in size to Bantams. I have had twenty years 
of experience in breeding Dark Brahmas exclusively. I have 
tried many experiments and njade careful note of the suc- 
cesses and failures not only my own, but those of others. 
Long ago I discovered that quite as much depends on the 
care and feeding, and locality where they are grown, as on 
the stock they are from. I have had birds raised in differ- 
ent localities, all from eggs from my very best hens, but to 
see them in the fall one would suppose them from as many 
different strains. Those raised on poor soil without plenty 
of shade, and perhaps poorly fed, would be a sorry lot, not 
one in a dozen that I would not be ashamed to have seen 
in my own yards; while another lot of the same age would 
have a fair amount of fine specimens. 

"Every year I have raised two or three dozen at home, 
where they have had the best care I could give them, and 
among these few I have always found my best birds. It 
seems strange, but it has always been my experience that 
whenever chicks are stunted they have invariably been bad 
in shape and worse in color. Hence I say I would never 
expect to get such color on birds that have been hatched 
very late and starved to make them small as I would- on 
birds encouraged from the egg to make strong, vigorous 
specimens. The same care and food that make flesh make 
feathers. I have never raised a bird that was a cripple or 
stunted in size that was good in plumage. If you succeed 
in establishing a strain of Dark Brahma Bantams that are 
as fine in color and markings as is often seen in the standard 



Da:-k Brahmas, you will have accomplished a great feat, 
and will be entitled to your reward. I appreciate your 
ambition." 

DOUBLE MATING DARK BRAHMA BANT.\MS. 

Mr. John A. Warner, of Niskayuna, N. Y., writes on this 
subject as follows: 

''In order to mate for pullets I take a mottled breasted 
cock or cockerel with hens or pullets. This cock must have 
a good silver hackle, good dark under-color, and no red in 
wings. For cocks I take a dark-breasted cock or cockerel, 
silver hackle, good under-color, no re'd in wings, and free 
from white feathers in the toes and legs when they can be 
so obtained. For pullets you want the hens rather dark. 
These are the points I use. 



BUFF BRAHMA BANTAMS- 

Below are facts regarding the origin of Buff Brahma 
Bantams as given by Mr. F. A. Roppleye, of Farmers, N. Y.: 
He secured from Mr. Putnam, of West Sutton, Mass., some 
cross-bred Bantams, the result of a cross with Golden 
Sebrights and Buffi Cochin Bantams, some of them almost 
perfect in Brahma markings. The best of these females he 
bred with one of his standard sized Buff Brahma males and 
produced fine specimens of about three pounds weight. 
These were crossed with some birds produced by crossing 
Sebrights, Japanese, Silkies and Buff Cochin Bantams. 
These crosses produced better Pea Combs and Brahma mark- 
ings than the other. The offspring of these crosses have 
been improved by selecting the most perfect specimens and 
breeding them together until the proper size and marking 
for a Buff Brahma Bantam are his reward. 



PEKIN OR COCHIN BANTAMS 

The five varieties of Cochin Bantams are the most 
attractive of all Bantam breeds. Their beautiful form and 
colors and hardy constitution make them the most desirable 
as a general purpose Bantam, giving them a commercial 
value, as well as fancy. They are very prolific layers of 
rich, high flavored eggs, and their plump little bodies make 
either a broiler or a pheasant, when needed for special occa- 
sions. 

One of the marked differences is the deep or reddish 
color of the male as compared to the female Buff Cochin 
Bantam. This was the natural color as they came from 
China. The proper way to breed them to conform with their 
natural condition is red males to the lighter colored females. 
This kind of mating reproduced of their kind. 

The red color of the male should not be encouraged by 
preference; rather should a good, sound buff in both male 
and female have the favored place. If the standard would 
demand small size in all varieties, a pure buff, black, white,, 
or partridge color, as it may be, with no foreign color in 
either, we would soon have all varieties conforming to one- 
uniform standard for shape by adopting a proper form and 
holding to it. The size and weight of Pekins, as in all Ban- 
tams, should be about one-fifth of the size and weight of the 
large or standard breed of the same variety. We believe 
this is the English rule on all Bantams, and it might be a 
good rule for us to follow. Do not, however, for one moment 
fall into the grave error of thinking that the smaller the bet- 
ter for all Bantams. This has gone too far already with 
some varieties. All Bantams should be as small as the law 
of nature will allow and still maintain their form and vigor. 



24 



THE BANTAM FOWI.. 



When below this they should be discredited for uuder-size 
and loss of constitution. 

Cochin Bantams are troubled with two grave faults, bad 
shaped backs, and too long legs. These faults seem to be 
more serious In the Buff than in the others. 

We must not expect to remedy this in a year's time, but 
all should contend for better form, feather and color. 

The standard calls for the s^me general form as for 
standard Cochins, but it must be remembered that the tail 
formation of Pekins is quite different from their larger 
cousins; so this alone must change their form somewhat. 
Figs. 1 and 2 show what might be considered propir form 
from side and rear views of the male. 

To be good Cochin Bantams they must be miniatures of 
standard Cochins. The neck of the Pekin should be short 
and full, in fact, the neck of the cock bird should be very 
full and heavy looking, see Fig. 1. The back should widen 
from front to rear, saddle very full. The cushion and saddle 
of a good Pekin cock should rise from between his shoulders 
and not just forward of the tail proper, as is so often seen. 
The tail should be very full and surrounded with abundant 
saddle feathers and tail coverts with but few hard quills. 
The tail should help to add shape to both back and saddle. 
The fluff under the saddle and tail should be very full. This 
formation makes the most perfect and handsome looking 
bird. This is the natural tail forma- 
tion for the Pekin, see Fig. 1. 

The legs of the Pekin should be 
short; in fact, a mature cock bird 
when well feathered should appear 
as if his body almost touched the 
ground. To have this form his body 
must be set low between the legs, 
and the fluff must be quite abund- 
ant; this also widens out his legs 
and adds to their breadth. Always 
remember, however, that a Cochin 
Bantam never reaches its full 
form under sixteen or eighteen 
montlis, and is often two years old before it is fully devel- 
oped. Quite often this is forgotten, and we expect to see a 
inatured form on a young specimen. 

The female must also conform to the description of a 
standard Cochin. Head, neck and body formation should be 
a miniature Cochin. The divided back so often seen, more 
especially in Buffs, should be guarded against; this is from 
lack of cushion and a narrow tail. The narrow or flat tail 
grows up between the wings, unsupported by any cushion, 
and gives the divided form of back, which is the very worst 
defect a Cochin Bantam can have, and should be stamped 
flut as soon as possible. Do not hope to do this in a day, 
for it may take years to fully accomplish it, as it did in the 
standard varieties, and even now it is often seen in them. 
The cushion should begin just back of her shoulders and 
sweep back about the tail as in a well formed Cochin pullet 
of the larger variety. The Pekin's tail being composed of 
flexible or soft feathers, adds much to the beauty of a proper 
back and cushion, see. Figs. 2 and 3. The tendency at this 
time is to improve their form and color by crossing with 
the larger Cochins, and that is changing the tail formation 
to conform more to the larger Cochins. 

Figs. 2 and 3 furnish the rear view of the proper forma- 
tion—broad, full and well feathered with good fluff almost 
to the ground. This is a description of a fully developed 
iien. Do not hope for this just yet in a pullet. Let it be 
your aim to produce this form and feather, if possible, on a 
pullet, but feel satisfied when you have it in a moderate 
degree, for the female, like the male, continues to improve 




'"-jCi^ 



FTCi. 1. SrE)E TIEW OF COCHIN 
MALE. 




'■<^jij!^*i^ 5 



FIG. 2. REAR VIEW 
OF COCHIN MALE. 



in form and feather each year, and never fully develops 
until the second year. 

The combs of many of our Cochin Bantams are much 
larger than their size and beauty demand. This might be 
improved, and also the shape of the comb. No reason can 
be advanced for a small Cochin cock having a comb almost 
as large as a Leghorn's. All these 
points only need our close at- 
tention to be soon corrected. 

The following points should be 
always remembered in breeding 
Cochin Bantams: The neck should 
be short and full, neatly arched; 
the body should lean slightly for- 
ward, and the top of the tail be al- 
most as high as the top of the 
head on the male. The head should 
not be held high above the body on a long, slim neck over- 
looking a slim, flat tail, all these points must be considered 
in the producing of a perfect Cochin Bantam. 

The Cochin Bantams came from Pekin, China, to En- 
gland in 1S60. The first that came were Buffs. For many 
years no other color was linown, and then came the Blacks. 
At the time of the coming of the Blacks the original Buffi 
stock was almost run out by inbreeding. They were im- 
proved by crossing them with White Booted Bantams. This 
cross aggravated the tendency toward extended hocks that 
still exists in this variety. These crosses produced the 
foundation of the Cuckoo Pekin stock, afterwards built up 
with birds of the same markings from China. The early 
Black Pekin males were crossed upon the Buff, and this 
cross produced some cockerels very near Partridge color. 
The cross of the White Booted Bantams on the Buffs also 
gave the foundation for the Whites. We give our English 
brothers the credit for building up the five colors of Cochin 
-Bantams. We of this side of the world have made several 
efforts to produce by crossing and reducing some Partridge 
Pekins, but up to this time nothing of much value has re- 
sulted from our efforts. Many have introduced standard 
Cochin blood into the Buff Pekins with some benefit. No 
one has, to our knowledge, produced either Partridge or 
Cuckoo colored birds of high quality in this country. Some 
are now being bred and we hope to see them in the show 
room. 



BUFF COCHIN BANTAMS 

Buff Cochin Bantams or Pekins were, as stated by the 
best English authority, first bred to some extent by Mr. 
Kenick, of Dorking, who bred in and in from the original 
importation for almost twenty years, until size and constitu- 
tion were gone. Others secured some of the same stock 
from him and introduced new blood by 
Importation and a cross, as above stat- 
ed, with the White Booted, building up 
their constitution. Some also intro- 
duced Nankin Bantam blood. This 
cross did not harm the color of feather 
to any great extent, but it darkened 
their legs and made them longer, also 
reduced the leg and toe feathering and 
spoiled their shape and form of back, 
breast and tail. Evidently the first that came to this coun- 
try were tainted with the Nankin blood, for a large per cent 
of them had bad colored legs and scant leg and toe feather- 
ing. Those produced here of good form are descendants of 
a cross with the standard Cochins and reduced by crossing 
with smaller specimens. 

Mr. Entwisle, of England, who purchased some stools 




FIG. 3. REAR \^EW 
OF COCHIN HEN. 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



25 



from our country, writes of them as follows: "One great 
point we value most highly, and we think our English 
breeders will net be long in recognizing, is the sound, even 
■color insisted upon by the Americans. They say: 'A Buff 
must be a buff, perfectly free from any dark shade in fluff 
or fleece of feather, buff under the wing when expanded, 
buff in all the tail and foot feathers.' A bronze tail is con- 
sidered a blemish, and the Americans do not allow such 
faults to be hidden or disguised by pulling out the faulty 
feathers." These words are quite complimentary to our 
ability to breed good color and should be strictly adhered 
to. If all judges will continue to refuse to place awards on 
coops containing specimens that plainly show evidence of 
being plucked, whether Bantams or any other kind of 
fowls, in a very short time none of this kind would appear, 
and all would buy or breed the right or standard forms and 
colors. 

We wil! refer to a few points of difference between our 
standard and the English. Plumage of Cochin Bantams 
with Ihem is so described: "Very abundant, long and quite 
soft; the fluff which grows between the saddle 
and thighs so full as to hide the latter; weight, 
thirty-two to thirty-six ounces." The cut of an 
English cock will illustrate this. This feather 
formation and full breast make them look very 
short of leg. Their demand for general shape 
and carriage is as follows: "Broad, deep, plump 
and well rounded; the carriage bold, rather 
forward, but low, the head being not much 
higher than the tail." The weights are in the 
proportion demanded for all Bantams, one-fifth 
of the regular Cochin. This is the same in our 
standard for females, but for males we demand 
less weight than one-fifth. 

Nature has declared for the Buff Cochin 
Bantams in their natural state that the males 
shall be of richer and darker color than the fe- 
males. When mated, the females, if several 
shades lighter color than the male, will produce 
females of their own color and males like their 
sire. A light colored male bred to females of 
his own color produces better males than fe. 
males. The latter will be much paler of color 
than the mother's. This has been overcome 
somewhat by the cross with the large Cochins. 

The color of the Buff Pekin, whether male or female. 
must be pure and true, whether of a light or dark shade. 
We began two years ago to work for the proper buff shade 
for both males and females, using a light colored male with 
a hen whose breast color was the same shade as the breast 
of the male. Two cockerels from this mating won first and 
second at New York in January, 1897. One of the same lot 
headed first pen at the same show. In getting this color 
we have lost some in the color of females, also in under- 
color of bo'.h male and female. This year, 1S97, we have 
u.9ed these males on the best colored females and feel satis- 
fied with the result, as the young stock shows much im- 
provement, many of the males being an even golden buff 
throughout, and the females are much better than last 
season. 

In the English Bantam Club's Year Book, Ethel A. 
Southam, writing on the Pekin Bantam, the name which the 
English fanciers seem to cling to, says: 

"A good many years have elapsed — still how recent it 
seems — since the days when the phenomenon of a Pekin Ban- 
tam in the show pen was regarded as quite an event, yet now 
we number our entries by hundreds! There is no doubt 
they are one of the most popular varieties of the Lilliputian 



breeds, and this is principally owing, not only to their pre- 
possessing appearance, but to the singular docility and tame- 
ness of their disposition. They are so wonderfully contented 
— tbe lowest fence will generally keep them safely within 
bounds, and even if allowed an unlimited range, they seldom 
stray far beyond the immediate vicinity of their own house, 
thus rendering it possible to keep several pens of brids in 
one field or paddock without any risk of interference from 
their respective neighbors. 

"Then, again, they require so little preparation before 
entering the lists for competition, beyond keeping the foot 
feavher in good condition, and preserving — in the case of 
Buffs and Whites — the color of the plumage, there is really 
scarcely anything else to be done. The manipulation to 
which so many breeds have to be subjected, the skillful 
training which is absolutely necessary for their deportment, 
and last, but by no means least, the ghastly process called 
"dubbing," all this is happily unknown to the Pekin. 

"With regard to their points, the characteristics of our 
old familiar friend, the Cochin, should be faithfully repro- 










''z?^^ 



HUFF COCHIN BANTAMS. 



duced, in almost every detail, in miniature. To describe 
them briefly, the head should be small and neat, with a per- 
fectly upright comb, as smooth and fine in texture as possi- 
ble, the beak short and rather parrot like in shape, and the 
eyes round and full. The neck of the cock should be short 
and nicely curved, with an abundance of hackl* flowing well 
over the shoulders and back, the breadth of the latter being 
almost out of proportion to the size of the bird. The tail 
should rise without the slightest angle from the saddle, 
forming one unbroken line, and the ends of the small wings 
should be clipped closely to the sides, where they will bo 
partially buried in fluff. Again, the breast, very broad and 
prominent, and the inordinately short legs set well apart, 
and feathered heavily to the very end of the middle toe — all 
this should give the cobby, Cochiny appearance which now 
may be seen to such perfection in the best Pekins. 

"If the birds are to make any name in the show world, 
too much attention cannot be paid them at the outset of 
their career — the feeding and rearing of Bantam chickens 
being perhaps a feature in itself. The problem is, how to 
give them enough food to bring them up through the trying 
struggles of chickenhood, without nourishing tbem to such 
an extent, that a few months hence they will be mistaken 



26 



THE BANTAM FOW]<. 



for a number of badly grown Cochins. Yet to err on the 
other side is ev«n worse. Pekins are delicate little things, 
and the probabilities are they will succumb altogether if the 
would-be exhibitor attempts to starve his chickens. At the 
same time as they grow and thrive, any unnecessary bone 
making food may safely be discontinued, and substitutes 
such as rice, canary seed, etc., should be given. Still always 
feed liberally — no prizes will ever be won by poorly fed, ill- 
nurtured birds — even if they survived such Spartanlike treat- 
ment the chances are they would never attain the high con- 
dition which is such a necessary feature in the show pen." 

Some of the very best Cochin Bantams that have ever 
been shown in England have been reared and shown by 
Ethel A. Southam, one of the most ardent fanciers of the 
whole Bantam Club, and writer of the above. Some of her 
best productions have found their way to this country, 'and 
we have bred from them to the fourth generation. Their 
great strength of character and blood influence are shown 
in the persistency with which they crop out. The most 
prominent is the hock feathering, and the color — which is 
much too strong for the American idea of buff. For beauty 
of form and feather, they are pleasing, and' their use may 
be made a benefit; but it will take time to bring them to 
the American demand. 

We have noticed in writings from the pen of this lady 
that she has bred in and in the distinctive features which 
she desired most prominent in her strain. Her success in 
England has continued through years, and her type of birds 
seems to have the call. Those that have come to this coun- 
try would be classed as too deep a shade for true buff, how- 
ever, which shows that England prefers a deeper or darker 
shade than we do. 



THE BUFF COCHIN BANTAM IN AMERICA. 

The Cochin Bantams as we now have them are truely 
and distinctly American. They have the comb, the shape, 
the feather, and the color which are most admired in Buff 




.^,3ilt.._._ 










^^ 




FEATHER FROM BUFF COCHIH 

BANTAM, ILLUSTRATING THE 

PRESENCE OF MORE 

DOWN THAN WEB. 



■^r^J^.'Sr 



AX ENGLISH BUFF COCHIN COCK. 



Cochin fowls; not the dark nor 

the reddish buff, but the true 

Golden Buff, soft and clear. 

Whenever you see the red color 

in the male Buff Cochin Bantam, 

you may rest assured that the 

owner does not know what the 

requirements in America are; he 

is keeping and selling poor qual- 
ity. To sell it as cheap Bantam 

stock may do; but when sold for 

high grade, it is a mistake. Con- 
siderable injury has been done 

the Bantam interest through this 

trading in cheap stock, all of 

which has and will continue to 

reflect on Bantams so long as it 

goes on, and we should be out- 
spoken against it. 

There are a few facts in connection with our Buff Cochin 

Bantams which should be corrected before they go too far. 
One is the thin surface color which some of them have. At 

times this color is so thin and the under-color so white that 
it shows through and looks like white lines, spots or streaks 
in the surface color. We call it white ticking, because it 
looks as if the whole surface is spotted with indistinct whita 
lines which show just a little lighter than the buff color — 
which in itself is little darker than a pale lemon. 

The true color as we should have it, is the clear, clean 
golden buff, which is laid on so thick and dense that the 

entire web of the feather is one even shade of true buff that 
shuts out the possibility of any ticking or marking; and the 
under-color, just a few shades lighter in color than the 
surface-color, adds to the real beauty. Such color as thia 
in both males and females (the female not quite so deep in 
color as the male) is correct for this variety. Both should 
be one even shade from tip to tip, including tail and wings; 
and the evenness is quite as important as the true colon 
Neither black nor white should be present; but in these min- 
iature Cochins I would rather see a little white than black, 
if either is present, as it is easier to drive out the white with 
good color than to get rid of the black. 

The broad back, full cushion, and close, compact tail are 
demanded, as are the short full feathered thighs and shanks, 
with but little show of full hocks, and an entire absence of 
stiff hock feathers. Small well formed combs are the rule — 
the large combs of former days have largely disappeared. 

In mating Buff Cochin Bantams, always have the best 
Cochin shape possible to obtain, fine comb of small size, and 
good, even, true buff color. Have the breast color of the 
male just a shade darker than the breast color of the female 
which goes w^ith him. If this rule in mating is followed for 
three or four years you will establish a true breeding 
strain; and as to color, have and breed from only the golden 
buff of the truest kind, as we have described above; and 
cling to this, and to true shape and feather, and you will 
succeed. 

In judging Buff Cochin Bantams, color seems to have 
the call over all else; but in too many instances bad color 
is encouraged. There may be some excuse for giving a 
prize to an unusually fine colored bird which is defective in 
shape, but there cannot be offered a reasonable excuse for 
not selecting both for a place in the line of awards. We 
should remember at all times that shape makes the breed; 
color is only the variety distinction; and without the best 
of shape, how can a specimen be justly awarded a prize 
among Cochin Bantams? Again, without good color, how 
can it be classed as a worthy specimen of its variety? Both. 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



27 



of these features are of vital importance 
when placing an award for quality. 



BLACK COCHIN BANTAMS 
Black Cochin Bantams come next to the 
Buffs, and here we shall again quote from 
Mr. W. F. Entwisle, the noted English writer, 
whose words far exceed our ability in de- 
scribing them. He writes as follows: "In 
Black Cochin Bantams, color of feather and 
brilliancy of sheen very properly count 
highly, quite as much so as color does in the 
BulTs. The desired color is one of uniform, 
lustrous beetle green, as seen in the Lang- 
shan and Black Hamburgs to the greatest 
perfection. The under-flutf should be black 
down to the skin, but it is very rare that we 
can find a bird perfect in this respect. All 
the points of head, face, wattles and ear- 
lobes are the same as in all other Cochins, 
bright red, neat, smooth and even. The eye 
in the Black Cochin varies more than in any 
variety, some being very dark brown. This we 
as grave a fault as a white or pearl eye. 
think the eye of the Black Cochin should be 




PAIR OF BLACK COCHIN BANT.VMS, 









Other 

think 

We 

red. 



In breeding Blacks, it has often been noticed that it is very 
difficult to obtain the most perfectly colored cockerels and 
pullets from one pair of birds, the rule being that all the 
most brilliant colored pullets' brothers have more or less 
red feathers in their hackles, backs or saddles; whereas, all 
the soundest and best Black cockerels' sisters are wanting 
in luster or sheen, and look quite inferior in color to the 
pullets bred the other way. 

"Where there is ample room for the purpose," Mr. Ent- 
wisle tells us, "even in starting from one common parentage, 
two distinct strains should be built up, the one for producing 
cockerels free from red or straw colored feathers, and using 
for this purpose only the deadest black pullets or hens mated 
with a sound black cock, and avoiding the more lustrous 
hens or pullets. 

"And, on the other hand, we should select the most lus- 
trous, beetle green winged and breasted cock, however much 
red he shows in neck, back or wing, and mate him with the 




GOLD DUST CH.\MPION, 
BUFF COCHIN BANTAM, BRED BY T. F. McGBEW. 



most brilliantly colored hens or pullets, provided always 
that other essential points were sufficiently in evidence." 
The writer has demonstrated to his own satisfaction that 
good colored males and females can be produced from the 
same matings when good colore only are used. With us in 
America, our motto is good color, surface and under-color. 
This rule, properly followed, the desired end will be gained. 

The proper handling of all Black fowls depends largely 
upon the true color of the male. If the male bird is a cock 
bird of true color the chances are that a large per cent of 
his chicks will be true to color. In selecting breeding stock 
of Black Cochin Bantams go down to the very skin in neck, 
back and breast feathers; also look well to color of wings 
at the very point where they come from the flesh. If the 
color is dark clear to the skin it can be depended upon. No 
strain of black fowls ever produced all of its chicks pure 
black. Some produce quite a large proportion of pure black 
females, but few produce true colored males, and these In 
turn produce but a small per cent that are perfect in color. 
This can be improved year by year if only cock birds of the 
truest color are used, for you can place dependence on the 
reproducing of true color if the sire himself is a two-year- 
old. The more of the bright lustrous sheen on your breeding 
stock the better. Even if they produce some offspring with 
red cast in plumage, it is far better to maintain the rich 
beetle green with a per cent of birds with reddish cast than 
to lose the color and have white. Both Black and White 
Cochin Bantams have a tendency to white In ear-lobes. This 
should be guarded against with great care. It usually comes 
with the very best specimens and the temptation to use 
them often overcomes our better Judgment and stamps the 
fault upon the flock. This takes years to get rid of. Better 
keep it out than be compelled to breed it out. 

We consider yellow legs a mistake on Black Cochin Ban- 
tams. If you have on your birds yellow legs and white in 
neck and ear-lobes, you may be certain the blood is bad and 
you need not hope for pure black in plumage. Better discard 
your whole flock and begin again with a few well selected 
birds from some well established strain that has perfect 
color of ear-lobe and plumage, with dark colored legs, the 
darker the better, just so they show yellow inside of feet. 
If we hope to establish a pure, solid black plumage, we must 
get rid of all the yellow possible in every part of the bird. 
They are not a utility fowl, so give them all the advantage 
possible in color. 

As to the point of overcoming one fault by extra good 



28 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



points in the same section of the mate, this may counter- 
balance the fault, but you can depend upon it the fault will 
show itself in the future. Never breed from a bird with a 
serious fault in shape; get the best and discard bad defects. 
No variety of our Bantams has gained more in both the 
qualities of shape and color in the past few years than has 
our Black Cochin Bantam. The size of both body and comb 
has been reduced, the white in under-color of neck has been 
driven out, and in many instances the under 
color of neck is black almost, as is the surface 
color. The size of the males has been very 
much reduced; and be it said to their credit 
that a Black Cochin male stood second to 
the best Buff ever shown at the Boston show 
for the challenge cup of 1902. This Black 
Cochin Bantam male was a wonder in his 
entire make-up. The backs have been very 
much improved upon and shortened, cushion 
and fluff increased so much as to place them 
right in the front rank for feather. More 
good Black Cochins have been shown the 
past winter at one or two shows than 
have ever been seen, all told, for several 
winters. 

BLACK COCHIN BANTAMS. 
HY MR. D. A. NICHOLS. 

Of all the breeders of Cochin Bantams none have sur- 
passed Mr. David A. Nichols. To him is due the honor of 
establishing a strain of Black Cochin Bantams free from 
all white in plumage. The following is from his pen, espe- 
cially for the readers of this book: 
Mr. T. P. McGrew: 

I can not think myself a successful breeder of Bantams; 
each year brings me some new disappointment. Hopes 
cherished for months fall away in non-realization of some 
improvement confidently looked for. But still, many of 
these disappointments are softened with the knowledge that 
other points are strengthened and we are better and stronger 
for another season. 

My first selection of Black Cochin Bantams was made 
from the best I could find. Color, form and size were npt so 
good then as now. These I bred from and improved each 



My chicks are hatched under hens on a farm near by 
(not having room at home), light-weight barn yard fowls 
being used as sitters, each hen having from fifteen to eigh- 
teen eggs. Each hen is given from twelve to fifteen chicks 
to care for. They and the mother hen are placed in a coop 
out in the garden, or where no grass grows, as I have had 
poor success in my efforts to rear them on a grass plot. The 
birds, when young, will ramble in the grass when it is wet 





A PAIR OF WHITE COCHIN BANTAMS. 

from rain or dew, and a few days of this will cause them to 
dwindle and die. 

The chicks are fed the first few days on cooked oat meal. 
After one week they have the food known as H. O., and are 
fed with this till large enough to eat wheat. When at this 
age they are confined in covered wire runs and not allowed 
to roam about and grow too fast. I find that when allowed 
their freedom they are quite liable to grow into over-sized 
birds. 

The breeding birds are kept in separate pens that have 
a wire netting cover over them to prevent the birds from 
getting out or into the wrong pen. It also prevents hawks 
or cats from bothering them. It is quite a pleasure to see 
a hawk dart down for a specimen to his liking and injure 
himself on the wire covering. In pens of this kind you will 
always feel content that the birds are quite safe. 

Upon the subject of mating I will be silent. Having 
heard the saying, "Tell a chopper by his chips," it is far 
better that 1 should not claim the art of knowing how to 
mate or produce good ones, for by so doing I lay myself open 
to the criticism of those who do know how. 

D. A. Nichols. 

The improved color has come from the continued breed- 
ing together of the very richest colored specimens. And 
shape has been improved by selection. Size has been re- 
duced by late hatching and the continued use of small 
'emales. This same method will bring improvement to any 
Dreed or variety of Bantams if continued in. Great credit 
should be given to small size, good form, and true color in 
this variety. 



WHITE COCHIN BANTAM "SNOWDROP," BRED AT ELMWOOD FARM. 

year by selecting the best of all and inbreeding, always dis- 
carding a fault in form or color, till I had established a solid 
black plumage on some fairly well formed birds. These were 
mated to hold color and improve the Cochin form. The rec- 
ords must tell whether I have been successful in my efforts 
■or not. 



WHITE COCHIN BANTAMS 

White Cochin Bantams of very good form and color are 
bred by a number of Bantam experts. They are quite well 
feathered, and as a class average better in general Cochin 
characteristics than the other varieties; the chief difficulty 
is the tendency of the males to turn yellow in color. This 
fault can be bred out of themi by using as breeders birds hav- 
ing a perfectly white shaft In their feathers. This may 
have a tendency to whiten the color of leg and beak, but 
better this fault than yellow plumage. 

It is said by experts that the purest white specimens, 



THE BANTAM FOWIv. 



29 




Partridge Cochin Bantam 

Feather, showing Full 

Fluff as it should 

be. 



when first hatched, show a sooty 
shade of color. This grayish color 
is said to promise better color 
when matured than the yellow 
cast. Of this we cannot say from 
experience, but we know that if 
pure white to the skin when 
hatched, they will mature to a 
beautiful pearly white. The 
Whites, we believe, will become 
the banner Bantam of them all. 

In many cases the White and 
Black specimens far excel the 
Buffs in true Cochin qualities. 
They, like all but the Buffs, came 
fromacross with their larger cous- 
ins, and carry the Cochin shape, 
none but the Buffs having suffered 
in shape and feather by the cross with Nankin and White 
Booted Bantams. These faults are fast disappearing from 
the Buffs, and soon we may hope to see Cochin wonders in 
miniature form of the five colors at our exhibitions. Of one 
point too much can not be said. It is quite true that the 
smaller the better if true Cochin shape is maintained, but 
close feathering is not Cochin form. Cochins should have 
long, fluffy feathers, and these close-feathered birds that 
look small should not be allowed to gain the ascendency, 
for if they do the true Cochin Bantam is gone. 

The following is from the pen of Mr. A. P. Groves, a true 
fancier, who contributes his experience to this work: 

Mr. T. F. McGrew: 

The American White Pekin or Cochin Bantams were 
originated by me about eight years ago. I was breeding Buff 
Pekins at that time and some of their progeny came pure 
white. I bred these white specimens together and estab- 
lished what is known as the Snow-Drop strain. There was 
no booted Bantam or other blood used in their composition. 
They are now well distributed over the United States, ar.d 
some have gone to England to compete for prizes there. In 
many instances they have been successful. I consider our 
home-bred birds the equal of those sent from England, if 
they are not the superior. Some of these may be whiter in 
plumage, they having paid more attention than we to this 
point, but in shape, leg and toe feathering we acknowledge 
no superiority. Having as careful breeders here as there 
are on the other side, why should we fall behind them? 

I consider the White Cochin, when well bred, the hand- 



somest of the Bantam family. Care should be exercised in 
breeding them. Only birds of good shape and heavy leg and 
toe feathering should be used; otherwise you will have many 
culls. Never breed from a bird with light leg or toe feather- 
ing, no matter how good otherwise. In regard to feeding 
the chicks, give them bread soaked in sweet milk, not too 
wet, for a month or six weeks; after that give them whole 
wheat. I have followed this rule for several years, and sel- 



dom lose a chick. 



A. P. GROVES. 



FRO.M .\NOTHER BREEDER OF WHITE COCHIN.S. 

Mr. T. F. McGrew: 

We imported our first stock of White Cochin Bantams, 
from England. We made altogether seven importations, and 





T. F. MCGREW'S PARTRIDGE COCHIN BANTAM HEN. 

we can candidly say there is no necessity for going there 
except for new blood to prevent inbreeding. In fact, after 
the new Standard is out we will not be able to import, be- 
cause they breed them with both yellow and white legs and 
beaks. The best White Cochin Bantam we ever imported 
was 'Nameless." She was undoubtedly the best White 
Cochin Bantam ever seen in America. She was even smaller 
than any pullet. When she was four years old she was sold 
for the longest price ever paid for a Cochin Bantam in this 
country. Messrs. Butterfield, Ball, Zimmer and Rockenstyre 
considered her perfection. The yellow legged strain was 
produced by a cross of the English and American White 
Cochin Bantam, breeding for a type with yel- 
low legs and beaks, and by a very strong use 
of 'the ax on culls. 

Feed bread, cracker crumbs, oat meal, grit 
and wheat, with this breed. Beware of yellow 
corn as you would a pesitilence. Where one 
has plenty of shade one can produce that 
sheeny white plumage. 

: CHARLES JEHL. 



^' ^ - — r?y 



A PAIR OF PARTRIDGE COCHIN BANTAMS. 



PARTRIDGE COCHIN BANTAMS. 

The Partridge Cochin Bantam has the same 
standard colors and penciling as the larger 
specimens. They are the latest production in 
the Pekin variety. As stated, their origin was 
a cross of Buff and Black bred to large Coch- 
ins and reduced by care and patience to the 
proper form and size. The same method of 
producing males and females of proper 



30 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



colors in the large varieties must be followed with them. 
We hear of superb specimens of this variety being shown in 
England; but their idea of color of Partridge Cochins and 
ours differ so much that due allowance must be made in 
this line. The writer is now breeding a strain of Partridge 
Cochin Bantams that are small in size, fine in form, and very 
good in color and penciling. These birds show good length 
of feather and fluff, also line foot feathers, and it is my belief 
that within a few years they will be fully the equal of the 
very best Cochin Bantams. This strain has its origin in 
English bred birds, crossed on a small Standard female and 
recrossed on the imported stock. We can now feel assured 
of a good foundation in this variety. The winners at New 
York and Boston last winter were a sample of what the 
stock may be expected to produce. The same stock won over 
all others at both New York and Boston in 1898, proving 
their quality. 

Past experience in breeding this variety has taught me 
the great importance of color in the male bird used to pro- 




J. F.\LLEN'ri WHITE BOOTED HEN 

1st Palace, 1899. 



MR. M. THOMPSON'S J.\PANESE COCK. 

By Courtesy of Feathered li'orld. 

duce pullets. Of all the birds produced last season (1897) 
not one male bird had to be destroyed for lack of Standard 
color. Many pullets were of no value, their color and pen- 
ciling being so defective. To produce the proper color of 
female the deepest red possible to obtain in males is nec- 
essary. Having been produced with a Black Breasted Red 
Bantam cross, but few of the males formerly showed good 
penciling in hackle. This is improved by the cross with a 
Standard or large Partridge Cochin female, and now both 
hackle and saddle show indications of the black stripe. 

Another fault in this variety is the tendency to long 
beak, fashioned after the Game Bantams. Great attention 
must be paid to this, for it detracts from the Cochin form 
and beauty. The color of the female in these Bantams is 
not so rich a brown as it should be. It has a tendency to- 
ward a yellowish brown, and not a reddish or mahogany 
brown, as demanded by our Standard for Partridge Cochin 
color. All these shortcomings must be improved by the 
careful mating of the best. They are to-day better in many 
ways than their larger cousins were ten years ago.' They 
have fine Cochin shape, good leg and toe feathering and 
almost perfect color in the males. With these great advan- 



tages to start with, careful handling will soon reduce their 
size and perfect the color and marking of the female and 
make them fully the equal of any Cochin or Cochin Ban- 
tam. 

Partridge Cochin Bantams of to-day far excel those of 
five years ago. As mentioned as winners of 1897, females of 
good form, color and markings are seen — not many of them, 
it is true, but quite as large a percent as is seen of the best 
in the larger variety which they miniature. In males the 
hackle and saddle markings are better, and the whole make- 
up more in conformity with the true Cochin type. The En- 
glish writers and breeders state there is but very little im- 
provement in this variety with them. In my effort to improve 
them since the last time I had them in the show room, 1898, 
I have done as follows: One of George W. Mitchell's best 
males from his pullet breeding line was mated with two 
Bantam hens, and as the result of a whole season's work 
three chicks were hatched. Two of them died, and one, a 
beautiful colored cockerel, survived and lived to a servicea- 
ble age. This has been patiently mixed 
into the Bantam blood, and the result of 
four years' work does not warrajnt us in 
saying it is complete. 

Size is the hardest thing to have cor- 
rect, for by the time you have got back 
to Bantam size you have left only a small 
per cent of the original cross, the influ- 
ence of which we should like to maintain 
for the sake of color. The zigzag back 
and forth has influenced better color into 
both males and females, and the promise 
is for still better in the near future. Those 
who profit by this result when the time 
for distribution comes will scarcely 
know of the houi-s and years of close at- 
tention that have been given to these and 
to the Dark Brahma Bantams to have 
them what they are. For what they are 
at this time in America is due to the labor 
^r^'^' bestowed upon them for years by the 
writer and his co-workers. 

It should be borne in mind that feathers 
marked and colored like those of a Brown 
Leghorn are not proper colors and mark- 
ings for a Partridge Cochin Bantam. 
We show by illustration a feather 
from a Partridge Cochin Bantam female, a pullet 
of great promise that ended her days in an at- 
itempt to be free of an egg that was rather large — which is 
another trouble that comes from these large top crosses. It 
often increases the size of the egg more in proportion than 
it does the size of the pullet, and when this is the case trou- 
ble generally follows. Many are the trials of those who 
labor to make a new or improve upon a variety that is partly ' 
made; but the joy that comes with improvement often re- 
pays for years of trouble and care. If success comes as the 
reward of the labor given to these two penciled Bantams, 
we shall feel fully repaid. .. 



COCHIN BANTAMS IN ENGLAND- 
AND CUCKOOS 



BLACKS. WHITES 



(By a Noted English Breeder.) 

"Black Cochins should be the same as Buffs in comb, 
face, eyes and legs. The plumage should be a lustrous beetle- 
green, as seen in the Black Hamburg, although it is hardly 
possible to obtain the same sheen as in Hamburgs, but the 
more lustre the better, as color in Blacks is a very important 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



31 



■point. The fluff or under-color should also be black to the 
skin, not grey, which is often found in blacks, although 
birds with sound black Huff are few and far between, still, 
if bred pure and not allowed to cross with the Whites, they 
can be bred sound in fluff; It is the crossing with Whites to 
strengthen the strain and obtain the length of feather that 
is the cause of grey in under-color and hackle, which we fre- 
quently find in Blacks. To breed Blacks, although it is quite 
possible to breed exhibition specimens of both sexes from 
one pen, I should advise, where practicable, to mate up a 
cockerel-breeding pen separate from the pullet pen. In the 
cock pen I should select the shortest backed bird I could 
find, one possessing plenty of feather on shanks and around 
the hocks and carried out to the end of the center toe. I 
should like him low on the leg, excelling in lustre and free 
from white or grey in under-color and foot feather. The 
male bird in the pullet pen should be de- 
scended from a pullet breeding strain. A 
good guide in the selection of cockerel for 
pullet breeding, is to notice if he possesses, 
more or less, a tinge of red in the saddle 
and neck. If this is found, you can mate him 
up with confidence that he will produce the 
glos.sy sheen in the pullets, but the hens 
in both pens should be free from any foreign 
color and as shapely as possible, discarding 
those grey or white in fluff or white in lobe. 

White Pekins have found many admir- 
ers during the past few years, and are mak- 
ing steady progress. When kept under fav- 
orable circumstances, i. e., shaded by covered 
runs, or kept in small woods or orchards 
from the sun's rays — White Pekins are a 
very pretty variety to keep, but should never 
be attempted where the only accommodation 
is a back yard. To be successful with Whites 
they must have grass and a run with covered 
top and a portion of the sides and front. 
Whilst the floor of the house should have 
fine sea-sand, to the depth of three or four 
Inches, to protect the foot-feather and keep 
it clean. Whites are easy to breed true to 
color by keeping them pure and inbreed- 
ing, but should your chicks come weakly 
through too much inbreeding then the best 
plan would be to introduce a sound colored 
Black cock and mate him to the White 
hens. From these you would get both 
Blacks and Whites; the former would be more or 
less grey in under-color, and show perhaps a little white in 
foot feather, which, as a rule, disappears before the bird is 
exhibited; the Whites will be found very pure in color, al- 
though perhaps not quite so rich a yellow in leg color, but 
the produce will be found stronger than the previous year, 
and more feathers will have been obtained as well. It would 
not be wise to breed from the Blacks produced in this way, 
even should they be perfectly sound in color. 

Cuckoo Pekins are a much later addition to the fancy 
than Blacks or Whites, and do not appear to be making any 
headway at all. Doubtless this is greatly due to the difficul- 
ties of producing them true to color. It is very rarely we find 
a single first-class sxhibition specimen at any of the provin- 
cial shows. In markings they should be similar to the 
Scotch Grey Bantam, the ground color should be a very pale 
blue, with dark (almost black) bars; the more clearly de- 
fined in barring (as in Plymouth Rocks) the better. Like 
the Scotch Grey and Plymouth Rock, the ground color varies 
considerably, but the color should be as uniform as possible. 



and the barring fine and distinct; and not only should the 
top feather be barred, but the under-color and foot feather 
as well. This is very important when mating up the bird 
for breeding purposes. I have seen perfect top-colored birds 
entirely devoid of fluff baring; but these are not the birds 
that should be selected for the breeding pen, and, again, 
never select birds that show any great amount of white in 
tail or flights. This is a great weakness in all barred varie- 
ties, and should be strictly guarded against. 

In mating up the breeding pens, it would be as well to 
use two pens. For the cockerel breeding pen, select a very 
uniform colored bird of the medium shade. See that his tail 
and sickle feathers are well barred down to the root, and 
that his flights when opened out are sound and free from 
white. With him mate up three hens or pullets of a nice 
level color and clear in ground color. In the pullet pen I 




'3°'- 



A p.\iR OF jap.\xe!;e baxtam.s, bred bv henry hales. 

should use a darker shade of color in the cock, but not 
brassy on :op. This is a serious fault. See that his breast 
is clear and fine in markings, not blurred or indistinct; a 
Ir'tle dark on tail is no ob.jection, but he must show no trace 
of white either in tail or wing. By mating him to three or 
four distinctly barred hens, nice and clear in ground color, 
and especially sound in the black of the barring, you should 
be rewarded by a good percentage of exhibition pullets, and 
the cockerels the following year will be found useful if 
mated back to the hens again as well as breeding cock- 
erels and pullets together. By doing this you will 
have two strings to your bow as it were. Should any of the 
pullets come black, by mating these to a finely barred cock- 
erel of the lighter shade you would in all probability breed 
the very best of cuckoo pullets, and pullets bred in this man- 
ner are very useful as future pullet breeders. 

Shape of course is of the greatest importance and the 
chief difficulty lies in getting shapely birds that are at the 
same time diminutive. Persistency, however, will overcome 
such (Uft'iculties in this breed as in all others. 



32 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 




A GROUP OF COCHIN BANTAMS. 

Buff Cock 1st at Boston owned by Dr. Wm. Y. Fox; White Hen the property of the same owner; Black Hen owned by 
Baldwin Bros., and Partridge Cockerel 1st at Boston. 



CUCKOO COCHIN BANTAMS. 

Cuckoo Cochin Bantams are of late production, starting 
from sports of Blacks, Buffs and Whites bred together and 
strengthened by birds of the Cuckoo color imported from 
China. We give you a description of them as written by Mr. 
Entwisle, the greatest breeder of Bantams in England. He 
said: 

"Cuckoo Cochin Bantams should have very sound orange 
yellow legs, and orange beaks are generally preferred, 
though personally we do not dislike a little dark marking on 
the beak of a Cukoo Cochin Bantam, as it seems quite in 
harmony with the feathering. And now we must try to 
describe the color and markings of the Cuckoos. These 
points vary very considerably from a pale, almost white 
ground, with cloudy and indistinct markings, to a beautiful, 
soft French grey ground, with dark slate bars. The more 
clearly defined and the finer the markings the better. Not 
only does the ground color vary, as well as the color of the 
bars or markings of the feathers, but also in different birds 
the pattern of the markings varies considerably. There are 
Cuckoos shown with the same pattern of markings as the 
Dark Brahmas and Partridge Cochins— concentric circles of 
penciling, one with the other, i. e., in the hen— but this is 
not correct. The markings we require in Cuckoo Cochin 
Bantams are a series of clearly defined bars (we prefer nar- 
row ones) across each feather, from the head' down the hackle, 
breast, thighs, wings, back, saddle and tail, and, in fact, 
each feather throughout the whole bird, both cock and hen, 
must have this distinct barring, or series of bands, across the 
feathers. In some birds we have counted nine bars across 
the hackle or saddle feather of a cockerel, but seven bars 
make the feather look well. A less number would not be 
so good. In hens, across the saddle feathers, five bars are 
sufficient, and as feathers on other parts of the body are not 
so long, a proportionately less number of bars is required. 
The same description of markings is required on the feather- 
ing of the legs, feet and toes, and the more distinct the 
better. 

"A common failing of Cuckoos is to have some of the 
wing feathers white, or with a good deal of white in them, 
and also in the tail feathers. This is a grave fault, and is 
reproduced in the chickens most persistently. If the fault 
is seen in the brood cock, it will not do to run hens with him 
having ths same fault. If the cock bird is perfectly sound in 
color, less an.xiety need be felt about a little white in the 
hens' flight feathers. Never breed from any— either cocks 
or hens — that are broad, coarse or irregular in their mark- 
ings." 

Since the above was written I have bred some very good 



Cuckoo Cochin Bantams from a cross between solid Whites. 
and Blacks crossed in with some very poor Cuckoos. These 
Cuckoos had by far the best color in the males, many of the 
females coming too dark — some clear black. One female 
from the Cuckoos came pure black, and has since won prizes 
in a number of shows. We cannot encourage the breeding: 
of this variety, for they will never become popular because 
they breed so untrue. This same fault is mentioned by the 
English writer whom we quote above. 

Cuckoo Cochin Bantams should be the same in shape as 
are other Cochin Bantams, and have the color and barring 
the same as our Barred Plymouth Rocks. The English call 
it the Cuckoo coloring, we call it Dominique color. If we 
might have these Bantams of the same rich color and bar- 
ring as is seen on some of the best Plymouth Rocks, they 
wouldbeboth beautiful and attractive; but so far the obtain- 
ing of such color with them has outwitted all who have tried 
to produce it. From some unknown cause they seem to 
grow darker in color every day, and some of them show 
considerable red in plumage. Just why this should be we 
cannot say. 

MATING COCHIN B.\NT.\MS. 

The profitable breeding of Cochin Bantams depends upca 
the quality that may be produced. Poor quality that may 
be sold at low prices is far from profitable; and to produce 
the best quality is a study for the fancier, and almost beyond 
the reach of the amateur, unless he has the advantage of the. 
knowledge and experience of others. 

The most profitable of all are the Cochin Bantams — and 
the Buffs hold the lead in these. More Buff Cochin Bantama. 
are produced each year we presume than of any other, it 
not all other kinds; and but few of these are high class. It is 
astonishinghowveryinferior some of them are — even among 
the entries at our larger shows. In fact, at times we won- 
der why the entrance fee is paid on some that are shown. 
This should not be, for any one who knows a Cochin Bantam, 
by sight, knows that it should be true Cochin in shapa, 
and golden buffi in color. When neither of these demands- 
are present in the specimens shown, they should be cast 
aside as not competent to compete in the classes they are 
shown in. If this might be, the chances are, we would sooa 
have better quality in the show room at least. To aid those 
who may be interested in having high quality Cochin Ban- 
tams we shall give in one the combined experience of our 
best producers of the Cochin Bantams as their guide ta 
success. 

The mating for shape is the same in all varieties, and of 
vital importance. More by far depends upon the female thaa 
is usually accredited to her. Never can you hope to gain the 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



33 



most desirable Cochin shape from Ion 

backed, narrow females that ar 

close in feather. This style of femal 

may as well be discarded as a p 

ducer, for it will not give good 

returns, no matter how it may 

be mated. Turn to our illus- 
tration, "Rear View of Males 

and Females," and note the 

width of feather, the spread 

of tail cushion, and fluff. All 

this must be present in the 

strongest degree in the fe- 
males from which we hope to 

obtain true Cochin shape. 

Long backs, necks, tails and 

legs do not belong to the 

Cochin Bantam; and close or 
short feather m.ust not be 

considered. 

The proper females for 

producing good form are the short compact built hens that 
liave very long profuse feathering all over. Cushion, fluff 

and thigh plumage must be long and profuse with no stiff 
feathers at hock. All must be long and soft, and the fluffy 

portion of feather, full and open. Our illustration of feather 

shows how full and downy the under portion of feathers 
must be to build out the cushion and fluff. This fulsome 
feather formation is what is needed to build out the rotund 
form of the Cochin Bantam. 

After shape comes size. Do not select the very smallest 
looking females for breeders, for often they are very c'.os? 
feathered, which makes them look smaller than they really 
Are; and some of which may appear to be larger will show 
less size if the scales are used. It is best to use this test for 
size: First, all the feathers you can have within the weight 
limit, small in appearance with all the feathers possible, 

but never so small as not to have strength and vigor. Vital- 
ity is all important in breeding Bantams. 

In selecting the male, have all the Cochin type, shape 
and qualities which it is possible to obtain, also as little size 
as can be had, and with such qualities, comb and all head 
points, including eyes, are of great consideration in both 
male and female. Have them as close to perfection as it is 




BUFF COCHIN BANTAM COCK AND WHITE JAPANESE HEN 

First Prize Winners at Hackensack Bantam Show. 



possible to get them, for all these things count 
toward a great future for the ottspring. 
at the side view of Cochin male 
The former pages on "Cochins 
and Bantams" and you will see 
just what you should have 
for a breeder. Note the beau- 
tiful shaped head and head 
points, small size and plenty 
of feather. 

The best rule for color is to 
have in your breeding stock 
thn identical color that you 
desire to produce — pure 
golden buff for this vari- 
ety, and the purest white 
for the production of spot- 
less while, and rich glossy 
black with the beautiful 
sheen for the Blacks. If these 
rules are observed color will 
come better and better each year. But as soon as you have 
poor or undesirable color in your breeding stock, you are 
certain to produce undesirable color in your young stock. 
This is just as certain as that night will follow day; and 
no one has or will be able to get away from such results. 
The same is true of the Partridge colored variety. You must 
have good color, good markings, and line breeding, to suc- 
ceed with them, just as you must have to produce good 
Dark Brahma Bantams. Pencilled plumage can only be 
obtained and maintained by close line breeding of the best 
to be obtained. 

C.^RH OK COCHIN B.\Nr.\MS. 

Mr. T. F. McGrew: 

When the breeding season commences, move pens en- 
tirely away from the winter quarters. For houses t.se a 
common store box, make a slanting top. and cover all over 
with tar paper. Make south side a wire door. Runs should 
be covered with grass or sand and must have plenty of 
shade. If runs are large a good feed of wheat at night is a 
plenty; If small, some oats in morning and wheat at night 
should be given, with green bone three times a week and a 
trifle of corn once a week for a change. Do not let them get 




GRAY J.\PANESE COCK 

Of Stock imported by T. A, Havemeyer from 
O, E Cresswell of England. This cock is 
sire of the other bird which appears as cock- 
erel and as cock in this plate. 



GRAY JAPANESE COCKEREL. 

Owned by T. A. Havemeyer. This frizzy 
little fellow developed into the beautiful cock 
shown on the right. 



GRAY' JAPANESE COCK. 

Winner at Boston and New York, 1<XXI. A 
charming type of the rare Birchen Gray that 
possesses black secondaries,- laced breast and 
tail coverts. 



34 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



too fat. Incubators and brooders should not be used except 
where large numbers are raised. In early spring set hens in 
a warm, dry house by themselves. Make nests at least a 
foot off the ground. Later make nests on the ground. Be 
careful about sudden changes of food or weather, or bowel 
trouble will surely follow. When chicks hatch move the 
brood to a warm, dry shed with a sand floor. Sand should 
be changed two or three times a season. Keep the hens in 
coops, but let the chicks run in the shed. The first week I 
feed thoroughly cooked rice. Give fresh water three times 
a day and a nice green piece of sod each morning. After a 
week feed cracked corn, millet and rolled oats, a little green 
bone once a week, but not much as it causes bowel trouble. 
If chicks get dysentery or bowel trouble feed nothing but 
cracker crumbs and cut green catnip. There is nothing 
better than catnip to check the bowels. Wean when six 
weeks old and place in a shady run by themselves and feed 
wheat and corn, gradually reducing the food to two light 
meals a day. 

Separate the sexes the first week in September, and 
October first move back to the winter quarters, which have 
previously been thoroughly cleaned and the runs sown in 




WHITE COCHIN BANT.AM — NABOB B.\NTAM V.ARDS. 

wheat or rye. A large well ventilated house is the thing 
for Bantams. Do not use a low, dark house. 

In winter I feed wheat in the morning, millet and cut 
clover at noon, cracked corn at night and green bone twice a 
week. I find a hot mash for Cochins or Cochin Bantams is 
not best In cold weather. They will eat it heartily, bat after 
the temporary effects of the heated mash wear off they stand 
around and shiver and take cold easily. Commence in the 
morning and make them scratch all day. They will lay bet- 
ter and keep healthier. When Banlams are molting increase 
food and give a small quantity of flax seed and yellov/ mus- 
tard seed oneo a week. Do not fail to have a well filled dust 
box in each house the year through, and in summer spade 
up a place in the runs. Let them play in the dirt, that is, 
nice, fresh soil, not filth. It will help to keep them free 
from lice and their plumage in better shape. 

To see what lice can do, I took two green legged chicks 
from a brood ten days old, that were apparently hearty and 
well. On the throat of one I placed three gray lice, and on 
the other, four. In two days the latter died, and in a li.tle 
over three days the first one died. They were subjected to the 
same care and treatment as the rest of the brood, which have 
all lived. So you see too much stress cannot be put on the 



lice question, especially with reference to Bantams. I pre- 
fer vaseline to any other grease for head lice, but prefer lo- 
use none if it can be avoided. Coal oil or lard kills chick* 
as well as the lice in a great many cases. Powdered motb 
balls, one part; snuff, two parts; insect powder, four parts, 
make the best insect powder I ever used. Two or three motb 
balls placed in the nest with the eggs will keep both hen and 
chicks, when hatched, free from lice. It is fine. 
As to mating, I mate with these objects in view: 
First, shape; second, color; third, size. Or first, a 
Cochin; second, a Buff Cochin; third, a Buff Cochin Bantam. 
In the male I want as light surface as possible, but must 
have a sound under-color, and I depend on him for comb, 
color and carriage. In the female I want a deep color (not 
brown), very good shape and feathering. Too much care 
cannot be used in selecting the male. This is contrary to 
nature, and red will crop out strong in wing-bows of cock- 
erels for a few seasons. Dark males and light females do 
not go with me. Do not discard a good shaped or colored 
Bantam because it is too large; nor breed a delicate, puny 
one because it is small. You are breeding trouble if you 
do. I believe it is all bosh about using a male with black 
in tail because it holds up color. The sooner Buff breeders 
drop that notion the quicker black will disappear In winga 
and tail. (The tail does not wag the bird.) Do not breed a 
green legged bird for a farm in Texas; white is bad enough. 
What we need, and need badly, are judges who know some- 
thing about Bantams. Not one in ten pays any attentioa 
to long, straight, dark colored beaks, depressions in front of' 
eyes, lack of depth of keel bone, long flight feathers, la'ing 
of feathers on back of females, etc., and as long as the judges 
do not the breeders will not. The successful breeder of to- 
day is the one who selects a variety best suited for his pur- 
pose, studies it carefully, uses an abundance of grit, patience 
and common sense, adapts himself to his circumstances and 
surroundings, and sticks as closely as possible to the lines of 

"^'"''®- CLARENCE HENDERSON. 

THE POWER OK COLOR. 

We have always held to the theory, if you will, that blu» 
or purple barring in black plumaged fowls is an indication 
of an excess of color pigment in the blood of that particular 
specimen. The same influence may run throughout an entire 
flock, where you will also find a tinge of red, as mentioned 
in a subsequent article by an English writer. The Influence 
of this tinge of red in plumage is for better and richer color 
in the offspring. Such matings will produce too much color 
in the males, and it also may give an excess of color in some 
of the females; at the same time, it is very sure to give some 
beautiful colored pullets. This comes from the excess of 
color in the male, and it will be the same, and have equal 
influence in the mating^ of all black fowls. 

Because of the influence of this excessive strength of 
color, it is our opinion that the careless mixing of same to 
gain the rich sheen, so much desired, gives us the purple 
bai-ring, and we do not believe that the sunlight has much 
influence for or against this barring. It is rather to be sup- 
posed that it is the color influence from one to the other in 
breeding for the rich color that comes from the use of these 
over or too richly colored males. Often this purple comes 
in the plumage of the very richest colored specimens. Sel- 
dom is there any sign of it in dull colored specimens. 

We know that cream or yellow color in the plumage of 
a white male may spoil his entire progeny. This we are 
assured of in all white fowls, and this alone tells us that a 
weaker shade of color has a strong influence over the off- 
spring, and how much more must the stronger color of red 
influence the black. This is the same in the buff. When yoi». 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



35 




cjEiuiiliEJili^xanW^^^^^^^^^ 



BUFF COCHIN BANTAM— NABOB BANTAM YARDS. 

make use of a male that has too much of the reddish buff in 
surface color, or black in wing and tail, you may depend 
upon having bad color in his chicks. You will have both too 
much color and unevenness of color as the result of the use 
of males of any color that have an excess of color. For 
these reasons, it is always best to select and use at all times 
and in all breeds the best and truest color that you can 
obtain. 

It is all very well for those who have their stock closely 
bred in line to make use of these special matings, fcr they 
are able to control its influence; but those who go into the 
manner of mating for color often destroy their whole line 
of birds, as well as injure others who may have stock from 
such matings. The greatest and surest improvement comes 
from the use of the true color at all times. In handling the 
parti-colors, such as the Dark Brahma, Partridge Cochin 
and Cuckoo Bantams, you must be able to properly mate 
these colors for best results. In the handling of these you 
must follow the same rules which have proved successful iu 
obtaining fine color in our Dark Brahmas, Partridge Cochins 
and Barred Plymouth Rocks. 

The male tias the greater influence at all times over the 
offspring in both color and finish. If this is always consid- 
ered in mating fowls better results will follow. The female 
influences size more than does the male. This is the cause 
of the largest Cochins coming from the largest Cochin hens, 
and the smallest Bantams from the smallest Bantam hens. 
If you can mate a Standard male of any breed or variety to 
a small Bantam hen of the same, you will reduce size in 
one-half the time that it would take by mating the Bantam 
male to a Standard size hen of the same. A small Bantam 
female will lay a small egg and produce a small chick, no 
matter how large the male may be, and you may depend 
upon having the size reduced, at least, one-half with evsry 
cross. But with the larger female the process is slower. 
Do not be satisfied with mating birds that may possibly 
breed good ones; m'ate those that in your opinion will surely 
do so. If you would be at the front you can take no 
chances; you cannot afford to lose a year in experiments. 
Conduct your experiments if you will, but while so doing 
see that a sure and safe mating also has been made; then 
there will be no time lost. With this as your guide for 
color and size, you should succeed in having better and 
better all the time. 



THE PLEASURE OF BREEDING BANTAMS 

A WeU-known Breeder Relates a Number of Truths that wiU Appeal to the 

True Fancier and Tells of the Pleasure and Profit that Comes 

to Him who has his Heart in the Work. 

BY J. C. JACKS, WINONA, MINN. 
[Written for the Reliable Poultry Journal.] 

We SO often find the old adage, "There are two sides to 
every story," a very true one, and I think one that should 
present itself to the writer on nearly all topics in the poultry 
field. While we read every article in our monthly Journals 
with much pleasure, yet as a whole breeiing "only Bantams" 
as we do, we practice very little of the many pages of good 
advice. For instance, they tell us to be sure and hatch 
early that the chicks may be large and well developed by 
early fall. We hatch late that they may not grow quite so 
large. They tell us free range for the growing chicks, yet 
although we have ten acres at our disposal, we find the best 
Bantams we have ever raised have been those that were 
never out of a portable wire run four by eight feet in size 
from the day they were born until they faced the judge. 
The Journals give good advice, and lots of it, as to how to 
get eggs in winter (when eggs are high). Bantam eggs are 
not high in winter and we do not want them then, and do 
not let the birds lay until the last of April or the first cf 
May. 

"But," you say, "you cannot prevent a hen laying;" and 
we admit it w^as quite a study, but we have solved the prob- 
lem to our own satisfaction and in a later article we will be 
glad to give you our method. 

To me the breeding of Bantams does not differ material'y 
from any other business or profession. To make a succ ss 
one must bo in love with the work and I pity the man who is 
in the business simply for the money that is in it. Of course 
we are all after the dollar, which is perfectly right as long 
as we can get it in a legitimate way; but it is so much nicer 
when we love our work; then it becomes a pleasure instead 
of all labor. If you do not love your Bantams my best 
advice is to get rid of them. If you do not enjoy every min- 
ute you can spare with them; if you cannot provide plen'y 
of good food, careful treatment at all times, and good com- 
fortable houses in winter, give them up. But we ask, what 
can give one gerater pleasure than to properly feed and care 
for these aristocratic little chaps as you would a valuable 
horse or cow and watch them respond? Yet we have seen 
flocks of Bantams so fearfully neglected that they could have 
no possible excuse to call their owner blessed. I visited a 




BLACK COCHIN BANTAM— NABOB BANTAM YARDS 



THE BANAMP FOWL. 



breeder's yards last summer who 
be a fancier. As we were shown tl 
his pens, we came to a favorite 1 
hen that was ill. As she had been 
a prize winner and purchased at 
a good price tlie owner from 
pity (?) picked her up, placed 
her in a box and carried her 
to the house for treat- 
ment. Further on we 
came across a poor little 
cockerel in a pen by him- 
self, so sick the miserable 
little chap was nearly 
dead- We suggested that 
he also needed treatment, 
but our host said: "Oh. 
he don't amount to any- 
thing and is not worth the 
bother." My friends! I 
claim this man is no fan- 
cier. His heart is not in 
his work; he does not love 
his pets! He was willing 
to bother with the little 
hen simply because she 
was valuable and repre- 
sented a few of his dol- 
lars; but in a very dif- 
ferent way he passed the 
little cockerel and left 
him to suffer. This same 
breeder told us there was 




R - P «• 

BIRCHEN GRAY JAPANESE COCK AND HEN; 

The l.ittcr winner of 1st at Boston as puJIe. in 1901; 1st and special at Bostoi 



cannot be quite as enthusiastic 
young mother referred to above, 
we can frankly say you have 
ssed a great deal of real pleas- 
ure. The writer knows of no 
pastime (and he has tried a 
great many) that equals 
that of the Bantam fancy, 
and it comes so nicely to 
the busy man or woman 
who has but a few spare 
hours each day to devote 
to pleasure and pets. Ban- 
tams eat but little and re- 
quire but little room to 
make them happy and to 
become a source of genu- 
ine pleasure and profit. 
We know of a school boy 
who cleared $70 in a year 
with a flock of Bantams 
confined to a small back 
yard of a city lot, but this 
boy loved his pets and 
you could find him with 
them morning, noon ana 
night. Everything was In 
perfect order about the 
place and we do not be- 
lieve the $70 was the goal 
he was aiming at. 

In some of the best 
sales we have ever made 



, 1902. 



no money in Bantams and we don't believe there ever will 
be any in it for him. 

I well remember once finding a half starved cur dog 
with a broken leg that some boys were stoning. I took him 
to my stables, set the leg, and gave the poor fellow the sarre 
care and treatment I would have one of my thoroughbreds. 
and when he was well found a good home on a farm, ard I 
never begrudged the time spent or figured that it was a 
bother. So 1 say, if you would be a fancier, choose your 

line, but if you find 
your heart is not 
with you in your 
work, give it up. 

In asking your 
cocsideraion for 
our favorites, the 
Bantams, we do so 
feeling that a trial 
will convince you cf 
the joys and pleas- 
ures of a Bantam 
fancier. A lady once 
said to us, "Have 
you seen our baby''" 
to which we replied 
we had not. "Then 
youhave missied half 
your life" came the 
quick answer. And 
we believe she real- 
ly thought so. We 
ask the reader, have 
you ever tried Ban- 
tams; if not you 
have missed — well. 



we have sent the birds away with a feeling of regret, as we 
felt we were parting with old and true friends. 

We have one hundred fruit trees, and berry bushes galore 
on our ten acres where we raise our Bantams, but I do not 
expect ever to make much of a success with the fruit, as 
my heart is not in the work. Still the trees furnish fine 
shade for the Bantams and that is the chief object of their 

J. c. JACKS. 




BL.\CK JAPANE.se BANTAM COCK, 

Winner at Boston and New York. An e.^tra- 
ordinarily good specimen. 



JAPANESE BANTAMS 

BY E. J. LATHAM, SECRETARY NATIONAL HANTA.M ASSOCIATION. 

At his home, time 
is not considered by 
the Japanese when 
producing or im- 
proving a plant or 
fiower. Consider the 
patience and time 
consumed to pro- 
duce the many vari- 
eties of form and 
color in chrysanthe- 
mums. We can to- 
day surpass them in 
fine colors and 
forms, but this is 
only our ability to 
make use of the pro- 
ductions of others, 
aided, as we are, by 
vTOll equipped hot 
houses and condi- 
tions most favora- 
ble. In trees they 
have dwarfed the 
most stately and 




A BIRCHEN GRAY JAPANESE COCKEREL. 

2d at Boston, 1901. Owned by Henry Hales. 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



37 



■beautiful into miniature form, some 
with long flowing leaves, others with 
waxen texture and bright glowing col- 
ors. These are engrafted into one an- 
other until the product is a beautiful 
little toy tree with many kinds and col- 
ors of leaves. Even in the production 
of fruit trees they succeed in getting 
wonderful results. 

A friend, Who spent years of his life 
in their country, tells me that they take 
young fowls and animals and confine 
them in boxes made to suit their purpose, 
and of different forms to meet the form 
of their specimen. These are confined 
in the ill-shaped boxes until they ma- 
ture and their bodies grow to the shape 
of the inside of the box. No considera- 
tion of time and trouble affects them 
just so they can accomplish the object 
in view and surpass a neighbor in the 
work. Think of a square shaped chicken or pig, or a squir- 
rel or rabbit with a hump like a camel! These same efforts 
produced the fowls with the very long tails, many of which 
are little larger than our Bantams. To produce these curi- 
ous freaks must take an extent of confinement on one hand 
and so close inbreeding on the other that they must possess 
some wonderful secret of infusing vigor into their specimens 
unknown to us. 

Some thirty-five years ago the first fowls known as Jap- 
anese Bantams came to England. The early specimens were 
of cuckoo marking, others variously marked and speckled, 
but the most attractive were what we now call Black Tailed 
Japanese Bantams No mention is made of the white edge 
on the sickle feathers of those early importations. We 
should presume from all information at hand that this was 
not prominent enough to cause any mention of same. In 
addition to the above mentioned varieties, some camo friz- 
zled feathered. 

The Black Tailed Japanese are described as follows, by 
an early writer: "The cock has good carriage, short clear 
yellow legs, drooping wings with black flights, body white, 
tail erect with long black sickle feathers showing white 
shaft, comb large and upright, moderate serrations, wattles 
long and red. The hen should have a very short yellow leg, 
drooped wings, black flights, white body, tail large, erect ard 
fan shaped, the hen's comb crinkled." Another description 
tells us there is another variety of White Japanese Bantams 
in which the cock's tail flows in a sweeping semi-circle. In 
perfect specimens 
the center of these 
feathers is of the 
deepest glossy 
black, finely edg- 
ed or laced with 
white like the tail 
of a Silver Pen- 
ciled Hamburg. 
The latter de- 
scription v/as re- 
corded about ten 
years after the 
first, showing 
that at this later 
date the edged 
tail was noticed. 
To-day we have 
the preference for 




CLEAR COLORED BIRCHEN GRAY JAPANESE 
PULLET, 

Bred from the pair that appears on page 36. 



(lark slate or black primaries, edged 
with white. The English standard calls 
for a black inner web for the wing 
primaries and secondaries. Both now 
call for white edge on tail in both sickle 
ftnd coverts. The English also admit 
the following varieties at the present 
time: Black Tailed White, Black, 
White, Speckled, Buff, Gray, Brown and 
Cuckoo. 

We present herewith for consideration 
the description of a pair shown at the 
ralace Show, as described by an expert: 
"Coclj, snowy white in feathers of 
neck, bi'east, thighs, body and wings, 
with a bia'ek tail; each sickle evenly 
edged with white; his legs and bill as 
yellow as ah orange; comb, lobes an^ 
face as red as blood; when his wings arp 
open they show the black in the under^ 
neath feathers of flights and coverts, 
and outer .surfaces are white. The 
just like the' cockerel and her shape 



but the upper 
hen is colored 
is like his." Why we should prefer the dark slate color for 
primary markings can hardly be told. Why should slate 
colored wing marldngs be preferred in these when it is not 
allowed in Light Brahraas, both being white with black 
markings'.' The comb of a Japanese is quite prominent and 
beautiful, usually fine in form and well serrated. The face, 
ear-lobes and wattles are quite uniform and handsome. A 
well formed Japanese female is a very quaint looking bird, 
the short legs, drooped wings and long tail being so very 
different from any other fowl, and when they move about 
they look almost as if they were sliding along. 

No variety of fowls breeds more true than they, their 
main fault being loss of color in the black feathers and de- 
fective lacing. To my notion the most attractive of all Jap- 
anese is the pure black. This color seems to fit their size 
and form better than the white with black tails. They are 
also to be had in solid white, buff, gray and brown of various 
shades. The most popular varieties are the Black Tailed 
Whites, pure Black and pure Whites. 

The first importation of Black Tailed Whites into this 
country were quite oversized birds in comparison with those 
we now have. The first importation of real quality in Jap- 
anese Bantams, we believe, should be credited to Mr. J. D. 
Nevius, of Philadelphia, who has at different times had large 
consignment? of Black Tailed Whites, pure Black, White and 
Grays of superior quality. The first really fine specimens 

seen by the writ- 

^^js iMitimM s I nil-. ' 




in 



his 



.A r.ROUP OF JAP.ANESE BANTAMS. 

The little Whit- Pallet to the left was the result of a cross of a Oray Japanese Male with a Buff 
Cochin Bantam Hen. illustrating a reversion to the Black Tailed White Japanese. 



er were 
yards. 

Black Tailed 
Whites are the 
best known with 
us. To breed 
them to perfec- 
tion is quite an 
art. The proper 
coloring of body, 
wings and tail 
must be closely 
watched to pre- 
vent them fading 
o r encroat^hing 
upon forbidden 
ground. The rich 
vellow color of 



38 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 




BLACK TAILED JAPANESE BANTAM, 

Owned by A. A. Fenn. 



beak, legs and toes; the bright red face, comb and 
wattles; pure white plumage of entire body; wings 
partly black; and black tails, the sickles and coverts 
of same edged with white, make a "oeautiful combination for 
the breeder's skill to work into greater perfection. Tbeir 
long overbalancing tails and full plumage with their form 

and carriage of 
body give them 
a n appearance 
unlike any other 
fowl. A slight de- 
scription of tlieir 
general form will 
represent them 
all as to shape. 

The face of a 
Japanese Bantam 
should be full 
and round from a 
side view; eyes 
large and bright; 
comb rather 
large, strong and 
well serrated; 
neck short, curv- 
ing back ward over 
the body, almost touching the tail; back short; breast round 
and full with a forward carriage; body short and plump; 
wings long and drooping; the tail of the male long and full, 
carried upright and forward almost touching his head; the 
tail of the female should be carried nearly upright, a droop- 
ing or hanging to either side is quite a serious defect; legs 
very short and free from feathers, the shorter the shank the 
better, just so the body is carried free from the ground. 

The Black Tailed variety should be a very clear white, 
all except wings and tail. The primaries should be black, 
edged with white. The secondaries, our standard tells us, 
should be dark slate, edged with white on the upper web, 
lower web white. We much prefer the black in wing cf both 
male and female, tail of botb black. In the male the sickles 
and coverts are edged all around with white. The tail cov- 
erts of female same as body color. If of fine form and car- 
riage and pure white with black markings, this is a beautiful 
Bantam. 

The Black Japanese Bantam should be a 
pure black, if of a greenish luster so much 
the more beautiful. Beaks, legs and toes in all 
Japanese Bantams should be yellow, but in 
Blacks they are apt to shade into a dark color. 
This is allowable, and is often seen on the 
richest colored specimens. The Whites should 
be pure white. The Grays, very dark or black 
in body color; the male marked in. neck, back 
and wings much like a Silver Dorking; the 
female laced all over with the same silvery 
color. Such well marked specimens are very. 
ecarce. Usually the markings of both male 
and female are very deficient. A few Buff 
Japanese were shown at New York in 1897. 
They are very scarce and not fully developed 
as a distinct variety. 

In breeding these Bantams the most perfect specimens 
obtainable should be bred together, not more than two or 
three females to each male. The young chicks must be very 
tenderly handled until six or eight weeks old. After reach- 
ing this age they are quite hardy and will care for them- 
selves if properly fed and houspd in dry quarters at night. 
Long grass makes a bad run for them when damp, as they 



are quite sensitive to wet and damp surroundings. Being 
so close to the ground their body feathers get wet and pro- 
duce disease. 

FRIZZLED B.\NTAMS. 

Frizzled Bantams of the Japanese type are quite like 
them in form. Some contend that they are of English ori- 
gin, while others tell us they came from Japan. Their gen- 
eral appearance would indicate their close relationship. 
They look quite like the Japanese in shape and color. The 
plumage of the whole body turns a reversed way. We will 
treat more fully of them in our next chapter. 

JAP.\NESE BANTAMS. 
BY HENRY HALES, RIDGEWOOD, N. J. 

The artistic genius of the Japanese so apparent in art, 
is readily .seen in his working with nature. In poultry 
especially, extraordinary patience in selection and breeding 
have produced some remarkable novelties in form and 
feather. One of the most notable productions is the unique 
little breed of Bantams called Japanese Bantams. What an 
oddity! Its short legs hardly keep its wings off the 
ground; its short body is almost covered by the hackle ot 
neck; its very large pointed flowing tail, almost if not quite 
touches its saucy little head that is crowned with a neat 
little comb over a pair of bright full eyes. These features 
added to the quaint coloring of plumage make the Japanese 
Bantam objects of peculiar interest to lovers of the beautiful 
in the nature. In colors there are solid whites and solid 
blacks. Then we have the oddity of white with black tails, 
a peculiarity not found in any other breed of poultry; I have 
bred them also with clear black and white patches, some- 
thing like a piece of quilt work. When several colors are 

bred together, they 
show sportive ten- 
dencies. Some will 
be buff, splashed, 
and a mix-up of 
many shades with 
feet (one can hard- 
ly say legs) of yel- 
low, willow, and 
black, 
that 
much 

^— II I ■ '^T^r— fr : vii" ijOKf/m^ 



I have found 
Grays, very 
like Birchen 




BL.\CK TAILED AND BLACK JAPANESE BANT.\MS. 

Game colors, can be bred true; others of a golden color in 
cocks, having either black or laced breasts; the hens a dull 
black with yellow in hackles. One may see in Japanese 
paintings these Bantams in a variety of colors, and I have 
found in breeding with mixed colors there is a great variety 
of rich colors — solid buff with feathered legs, all shades ot 
browns, reds, and oencilliugs were represented. 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



39 



I think there is a little doubt that these colors could be 
t)red In line; it would be a wide field for fanciers to work on, 
as the Japanese, like other Asiatics, spend more energy 
on the forms and size than on markings. This has given the 
opportunity to our modern fanciers to put the master touch 
in coloring. 

I have found these birds good layers and fairly prolific. 
I hope the time is near when greater Interest will bring out 
more beautiful varieties of these diminutive pets. 

HENRY HALES. 



FRIZZLED AND RUMPLESS BANTAMS 

In the chapter on Japanese fowls mention was made 
of the Frizzled as being of the same variety. In giving the 
information about these breeds, it is not my intention to 
•claim all the statements as my own, for the reason that 
much of this infoi-mation is gathered from books and re- 
corded for your information. It is my wisli to state here 
that the information thus gathered is put into this form 
without any reference to its origin. 

The Frizzle is one of the oldest known breeds. Natural- 
ists made mention of this and the Rumpless about three hun- 
dred years ago. On one point the early writers agree — that 
the Frizzled is a native of Southern Asia; also to be found in 
Java, Sumatra and the Philippine Islands. The prevailing 
color of the wild race is white, with smooth legs. Some 
specimens were found of various colors and feathered legs, 
indicating the presence of the same blood that produced our 
Brahmas and Cochins. These facts would indicate an inter- 
change of fowls at that early day between the inhabitants 
of the older nations of the earth. If the fowls of China 
found their way to the natives of the above named coun- 
tries, why not the same interchange of fowls with Japan, 
thus giving them the blood to produce the Frizzled Japanese 
Bantams? 

The Rumpless, called in early times the Rumpkin, is 
properlycalled"Choci-Kukullo," which translated is "Cochin 
Fowl." Some writers claim it as a native of Persia. Aldro- 
vandus spoke of this variety as the Persian fowl, while 
others positively state that it first came from Cochin, and 
their natural color was black. Some white ones were also 
aeen. These facts show that both these fowls originally 
came from the same region of the country, that their original 
color was black or white, with smooth legs, and for the 
Rumpless rose combs. The Frizzled were very much the 
same. Now, these facts being so plainly recorded at that 
early day should be a guide for our standard makers, and if 
recognized by them at all, color and comb should be very 
specific and positively described and held to, and not a lot 
of cross-bred mongrels encouraged into the show room. 

Japan has sent us in the last twenty years many odd 
fowls, showing their ability to produce odd forms, the Friz- 
zled one being the most attractive. Some of our ablest English 
writers do not admit that these came from Japan, but to my 
mind their form and carriage point to the Japanese origin. 
They are bred and shown in many colors, but the preference 
is given in all cases to Blacks and Whites, the former the 
more preferred. I copy from an English writer these words: 
"As to comb we have no great preference, though our choice 
would be the single comb, but in legs and feet, four toes and 
clean legs are to be preferred. Of all the Frizzled, Whites 
seem to be the most charming. These should have yellow 
legs (often they are willow, sometimes slate), but yellow 
should have the preference. Next comes the Golden, with 
yellow or willow legs; the Slate color, with black or slate 
colored legs, and the Blacks with black legs. In addition to 
these, we have the Browns, Grays and Blues, — in fact, all 



kinds of solid and mixed colors known to fowls." These 
statements show the many different colors of these little 
frizzled fowls. 

Frizzled Bantams are quite small, some of the Palace 
winners not exceeding one pound in weight. The most valued 
property is the curl of the feathers, next, the quality of 
feather; to be perfect they must be hard and wiry. Color is 
the third consideration. Being a tender fowl they must be 
protected from all changes of the weather, rain or storms. 
They are fairly good layers, splendid sitters and mothers, 
and their chicks are as easily raised as the Japanese. 

The Rumpless Bantams, produced, as they were, by Mr. 
Tegetmeier, seem to my mind to belong to the same chapter 
wiih the above. Let me quote the words of others as to them: 
"They were produced by a cross of a very small Rumpless 
hen with a crest. She was mated to a White Polish and pro- 
duced Rumpless Polish Bantams. This same hen mated to 
a very small Nankin Bantam produced tailless Nankins. 
The result of these two crosses passed into the haiids of 
others, who continued the work and produced them in many 
forms and colors; also some with very short, booted legs. 
Both single and rose combs are seen, but the single is much 
preferred." These two breeds in their many colors would 




R ^ ! - - j- 

A P.\IR OF WHITE CRESTED WHITE POLISH BANTAMS. 

make a study for any number of fanciers, and I hope some 
enterprising breeder will look into them and add them in 
perfection to our list of little beauties at our exhibitions. 

FRIZZLES IN ENGL.^ND. 

We clip the following from the Stock Keeper as to Eng- 
lish Frizzles: 

Frizzles, notwithstanding the fact that they have 
been exhibited in England nearly thirty years, have failed 
"to take on" in the fancy. This is probably on account of 
the difficulties experienced in rearing the chicks; as the vari- 
ety has been greatly inbred in order to obtain the type and 
character so essential in Frizzles, the stamina of the breed 
has been greatly weakened. 

There is great diversity of opinion as to what country 
this breed originated in. Some say Japan, other Friesland, 
whilst some ideas of their origin are both too numerous and 
too funny to enumerate in this article. However, their 
nationality matters little; they are here, and having been 
here so many years, are likely to remain, especially seeing 
that both judges and fanciers are gradually beginning to 
appreciate their charms. 

With such an enthusiastic pioneer of the variety as Mr. 
G. Reyner, of Thurlstone, near Penistone, who to my knowl- 



40 



THE BANTAM FOW]<. 



edge has exhibited them so successfully for the past seven 
or eight years, and who has ever been ready and willing to 
guarantee classes for them at the principal shows, there is 
every prospect of them becoming more popular. Although 
they have invariably to compete against many varieties, 
even at such shows as Dairy, Palace and Birmingham, they 
genei-ally give a good account of themselves, as reference 
to reports will show. 

The most trying time with Frizzle chickens is the period 
of getting their first feather. At this time they are difficult 
to rear, but when the ground is dry and sandy successful re- 
sults can be obtained. Having got their first feathers they 
will be found quite as hardy as most varieties. 

Many persons imagine that curling irons play an impor- 
tant part in preparing Frizzles for exhibition, and in some 
cases such is the case. I remember once seeing a lady man- 
ipulate with the curling iron on a White Frizzle hen for two 
hours one Sunday night, and although I often heard it said 




A PAIR OF FRIZZLES. 

that "better the day, better the deed," it was not so in this 
ease, for this exhibit just managed to struggle into fourth 
place. Then, again, I remember some years ago, either dur- 
ing the Palace or Dairy, the latter I believe, a certain exhibi- 
tor had occasion to enter the hair dresser's shop near the 
show, and on entering was surprised to see a brother fancier, 
one of the lily white innocent ones, too, holding a wee 
Frizzle pullet on the back of a chair whilst Mr. Hairdresser 
was assisting nature to curl the feathers. On this occasion 
their united labors were rewarded with success. 

Frizzlts appear at their best on either a warm summer 
day or a sharp, clear, frosty day, but the slightest fog or rain 
deprives them of their beautiful curls at once, the same as it 
dees (he ladies' curls when not in papers. 

This is one great drawback (to the Frizzle I mean) when 
they have to be sent long journeys in the damp winter 
months. 

Frizzle Bantams throw a large percentage of plain 
feathered chickens which are utterly useless for exhibition, 
but are of invaluable service in the breeding pen; in fact 
really good specimens are rarely produced without them. 

The curled hens are excellent mothers and sitters, but 
the plain feathered ones are not to be depended on in either 
capacity. This seems strange, but nevertheless it is quite 
true. 

There are several colors of Frizzle Bantams, but the 



Whites, Blacks and Buffs appear to be most popular: and, 
in my opinion, the first named are decidedly the prettiest^ 
and breed very true, whereas the other varieties throw a lot 
of mis-colored ones, especially in wing and tail. 

Judges have no easy task at present in making the 
awards, as there does not appear to be a recognized standard 
and prizes have in many instances been awarded to the best 
curled specimen irrespective of type or color. For this 
reason I herewith give a standard applicable to both cocks, 
and hens. 

Comb — Single, bright red, medium in cocks, and very 
small in hens. 

Head — Small, and neat. 

Face — Ear-lobes and wattles bright red, and of smooth 
texture. 

Eyes— Bright red and full. 

Beak — Short, strong, yellow or horn in Whites and 
Buffs; dark willow or black for dark varieties. ' 

Neck — Rather sTiort, well arclied, and li 
cock abundantly frilled. 
Back — Short and broad. 
Wings — Long and drooping. 
Breast — Very full and round. 
Legs — Very short, and quite free front 
feathers; yellow in Buffs and Whites; dark 
willow in dark varieties. 

Feet — Four toes, well spread. 
Tail— Rather large, very full, but loose, 
the cock having good sickles and plenty of 
side hangers. 

Plumage — Moderately long, hard, and 
well curled backward towards the head and 
very clo<!e. 

General Shape and Carriagei — Compact^ 
erect, active and strutting. 

To breed Frizzle Bantams it is advisable- 
have two breeding pens; this is only neces- 
sary on account of getting the curl, as one 
breeding pen if properly mated will produce 
both good cockerels and pullets. 

No. i pen should consist of a hard-feath- 
ered, well-curled cock, short in back, 
full in frill and breast, with short legs of the standard 
color; mate to him two small, well-curled hens and two 
plain feathered hens or pullets, whose appearance should be 
as round and as squat as possible. 

No. 2 should consist of a cock similar to above, but plain 
in feather and very full feathered; to him mate three or four 
we'.l-curled hens, the closer in curl the better. The plaia 
pullets from No. 1, I should use with the best curled cock 
the following season. 

It is no use trying to rear Frizzle chickens in February 
or March, it will only be labor in vain. The months of May 
and June are most suitable for this variety in England, 
especially in the northern counties, and not earlier thaa 
April in the south. 



BURMESE BANTAMS. 
This variety of Bantams came to Scotland from Burmah 
about fifteen years ago. They are a small white Bantam 
when in their best form, but black, brown and speckled 
colors are also natural to the breed. They have a crest on 
their heads, single small comb in front of the crest, long 
wings, very long tails, extremely short legs, in fact so short 
that their breast and body almost touch the ground. Their 
short, heavily feathered legs and toes make it difficult for 
them to move about. The legs and beak of the Burmese 
are yellow, and from their general description we should 
think they were much like the Japanese, with heavy leg 
and toe feathering and crest added. 



MISCELLANEOUS BANTAMS. 



Origin— Peculiarities— Prominent Defects in Breeding and How to Overcome Them— English Methods- 

of Mating— Standard and Non-Standard Breeds. 



Sebrights (Golden and Silver). Rose Combs (Black and White). Booted Bantams. Sultans. Nankins. Cuckoos. Scotch Greys 
Polish (All Varieties), and New Breeds, including. Black Spanish, and Barred Rocks. 




HE American Standard or Perfection recognizee 

sixteen varieties of Bantams other than Game. 

The English recognize some thirty odd varieties, 

including their many colors. We shall tell you 

of these many varieties of Bantams, gleaning our 

information from English writers as to those we 

do not recognize in this country. 

Our Standard groups the "Bantams Other Than Game" 

as follows: Sebright, Rose Combed, Booted, Brahma, 

Cochin, Japanese and Polish. We shall follow this order, 

and then the others referred to. 

In most cases Bantams were made, or produced from the 
larger standard birds of the same variety. 



SEBRIGHT BANTAMS. 

We hardly think Sir John Sebright contemplated the 
delight his production of Sebright Bantams would bring to 
the fanciers of the present time. No fowls are better known 
or more admired than the Sebright Bantams, and hut few 
less understood. That most charming feature, clear, well- 
defined lacing, is so poorly understood or little appreciated 
by many, that it often makes one stop and wonder at the 
decision of experts who place awards on them. The so- 
called Sebright of two pounds weight should be placed on 
the spit to delight the palate of an epicure, but never in the 
Show pen or breeding yard as a representative of his kind. 
A g(x>d Sebright, male should never go over twenty-four 
ounces, and a female not over twenty ounces, whether old 
or young. 

In the fall of 1S96, we wrote the following for the Amer- 
ican Fancier, and consider it of value at this time: 

Before me are two articles written by two of our most 
noted writers, judges and Bantam experts, the tone of which 
calls my attention to the desired qualities of the Sebright 
and their shortcomings of the present day. 

In the Canadian Poultry Review one of the above men- 
tioned articles, from the pen of Mr. Babcock, calls our atten- 
tion to the color of legs on the Golden Sebright, and his 
statement I shall consider, for it covers a point so often 
advanced by myself, and which deserves careful attention. 
His statement is given in full below: 

"The Golden Sebright has blue legs, and it looks very 
well with them, but did you ever see a Golden Sebright with 
greenish yellow legs? If you have you have seen a sym- 
phony in color, for then the legs harmonized with the plum- 
age in a way which blue cannot. I know that such legs dis- 
qualify the bird. I know that for the purposes of classifica- 
tion blue legs — which are the correct thing on the Silver — 
are the best. But I also know that art is above standards 
and the rules of classification, and that an adherence to art 
•would compel the Golden Sebright to have yellow legs. I 
do not expect to see this change made in the standard until 



the time comes when many other changes, based upon a 
compliance with correct taste, are made. When that time 
comes there will be many sweeping changes, especially in 
the color of legs, of the different breeds of fowls. In this 
respect the standard, while in harmony with market preju- 
dices, is out of harmony with nature and the law of colora- 
tion. The result is that the best successes now obtained 
are obtained with great difficulty, and they are far from 
being what the second best could be under a differently 
designed standard." 




SILVER SEBRIGHT B.\NT.\M,S -JOHN' F. HACKER & BROS. 

These are very sweeping statements and worthy of con- 
sideration, and while I should join the writer in the state- 
ment that art is above standards, we must admit that the 
laws of nature are far above both. This being the case, yel- 
low legs could not belong to the Golden Sebright for the 
folIow,ing reasons: 

First, their origin, their advancement and their comple- 
tion and make-up forbid it. Second, yellow legs do not from 
natural causes belong to birds of their color. 

As to the first we must consider origin, and on this 
point the best evidence gives us two very positive points. 
One, the female used in the start was a very small buff col- 
ored Bantam with clear slate colored legs, no doubt a Nan- 
kin. Polish was also used, no doubt the Golden; also a cock 
of a reddish color and a small hen resembling a Golden 
Hamburg. Three of the four we know had blue legs, and 
we can feel almost certain that the reddish colored cock 
must have had the dark legs of the early Games, the major- 
ity of which had blue or olive legs. The only cross used 
that would indicate a yellow color of legs was the white bird 
used to produce the silver colored birds. The origin being 
so positive in the leg color, the product had it well stamped 
in the blood, and being the natural color of the original 
before the hand of man began to work changes of form and 
color, it claimed supremacy and held it. 



42 



THE BANTAM FOWL,. 



As to their advancement, the club formed for their ad- 
vancement about 1820 and continued for over seventy years, 
always mentioned in their requirements very specially the 
color of the legs. They say legs and feet are required to be 
blue. And this point being so positively established a 
change of color would be so radical it must destroy the color 
of the whole bird. When one so well informed on these 
points advocates so positive a change what must we think 
of a standard that allows in White Booted Bantams white 
•or yellow legs when the special character of this variety is 
their white beak and legs? All white varieties if desired to 
be pure white in color will naturally in time have white legs 
and beaks. This again proves the superiority of nature over 
art or standard demands. Mr. Babcock also makes the fol- 
lowing statements: 

"It is not always easy to get the wings of the Golden Se- 
bright just right. White will creep into the yellow and black 
will disappear from where it is wanted. Outside of the comb 
there is hardly a point where the breeding is so unsatisfac- 
tory as in the primaries of the Golden Sebright. Just why 
this should be the weak spot I have never seen explained 
and I have no explanation to offer. It may, perhaps, always 







PAIR OF SILVER SEBRIGHTS. 



Temain one of the mysteries of breeding, and there are many 
to all except the beginner — he understands more on the 
start than he will when experience has sobered his enthusi- 
asm and reduced the size of his head. 

"Another difficulty ia breeding the Sebright is to secure 
«rrow lacings which go clear around the web of the 
.•ather. The tendency is. if the lacingg are narrow, to stop 
before they get clear around the web, and if they go clear 
around they are usually too wide and obscure the ground 
color and thus injure the beauty of the bird. My experience 
leads me to believe that this difficulty is greater in Goldens 
than in Silvers; why, I do not know — it is another mystery." 

Here is presented the experience and opinion of one of 
-our foremost experts about a breed of fowls now in its hun- 
dredth generation. He is compelled to admit the many 
shortcomings in the breed, one of our most artistic produc- 
tions in fowls. Could the hand of man guide them still 
farther and produce the yellow legs and hold even as good 
qualities of color and penciling, or will nature refuse to lend 
her aid and thus destroy the whole? We all know full well 
how the attempts to govern the color of ear-lobes failed. 
How, then, can we hope for the yellow legs? 

Many trials must be made before one can fully under- 
stand the troubles that confront us when breeding these 



beauties. Here are pointed out the hard, rough places to ba 
found when trying to produce the Wgh grade specimen re- 
quired for the keenest competition. In a well written article 
in the American Fancier by "Zim," he makes the following 
statements: 

"All of us know full well that a perfectly clear tail, a 
perfectly clear wing or a faultless comb is very, very desir- 
able, yet neither of these coveted qualities makes a bird, 
regardless of his style, shape, or lacing of other sections. 
Real judgment is the kind that makes note of all the good 
and all the poor qualities of a bird, and awards the ribbon 
to the best all-round specimen, regardless of the fact that 
there remains in the class a bird unnoticed that has one or 
two exceptionally good qualities, and several just as objec- 
tionable qualities. This applies to mating and breeding as 
well. The would-be breeder of Sebrights of to-day simply 
needs to start right by buying birds of the right sort and 
continuing to mate and breed on the same line, and he can 
not go far astray, as they breed remarkably true to-day." 

After considering all these points the reader must re- 
member that no variety of the whole number of standard 
varieties requires more perfection in every section than the 
Sebright, from the point of his beak to the 
ends of his toes. All must be perfection. 
This being the case, he who desires to pro- 
duce the higlier grade of perfedtion must 
study well his matings, for no variety looks 
better when fine in form, color and markings; 
none less attractive when inferior in these 
points. Thestandard for Goldens calls for col- 
or of a rich golden yellow, each feather even- 
ly and distinctly laced all around with a nar- 
row edging of black. Please consider this 
for a moment. What is a rich golden yel- 
low? Is it the color of a fresh chestnut shell 
or an old almond shell? Is not the color of 
many of our Goldens entirely too dark, as 
judged by the wording of the standard? Is 
the black stripe kept to a narrow line? The 
answer must be "No." The color of the Silver 
Sebright should be a silvery white, with the 
narrow edge of black. Remember a silvery 
white, not a yellowish white nor any kind of 
whiteotherthanthe silvery white. These col- 
ors when true and properly striped with the narrow edge of 
black, form a beautiful combination. The narrow edge gives a 
bright, gay appearance. A broad edge of black spoils the 
whole appearance of the bird. Next to bad color are a long 
back and a drooping breast. These faults should almost dis- 
qualify a bird. Why is it when the standard speaks so plainly 
on the points of form and color, that so many win honors 
that scarcely fill a single requirement? Too much consider- 
ation cannot be given to these words in reference to the 
Sebrights, taken from an English Journal, as follows: 

"What has been lost and what gained in this particular 
variety? Probably birds are now to be found as accurately 
laced as ever, and the pure white ground color of some 
strains of Silvers has been an introduction of later breeders. 
But what has the sacrifice been? To begin with, we can 
remomber Sebrights little more than half the size of the 
present exhibition size. Truly, in Bantams this is a great 
retrogression. Then the characteristic hen-tail of the cocks 
is seldom now seen in anything like perfection. But more 
than all, the beautiful coxcombical Bantam carriage has 
been lost. Let any fancier with an eye for form look at the 
lanky, ungainly tucked-up creatures now often in a prize 
pen, and then read descriptions of Sebrigtit carriage a quar- 
ter of a century ago, and his only rational conclusion will 



c/^iuti/p. ^raAayiTi) 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



43 



i)e that much has here been lost. What says Dixon, -whose 
iook was published in 1850? 'Here is a little whipper-snap- 
per! His ample tail, from which sickle feathers are absent, 
is carried well over his back. His dependent wings nearly 
touch the ground. He is as upright as the stiffest drill ser- 
geant, or more so, for he appears now and then as if he 
would fall backward like a horse that overrears himself.' 
What again, writes Mr. Hewitt in Tegetmeier's poultry 
book? 'In the carriage of these birds we find the very ex- 
treme of pride, vanity and self-importance. The feet are 
Taised in walking much more than in any of the other Ban- 
tams, and planted again with the greatest deliberation and 
precision. When alarmed their deportment is most striking. 
The wings drop to the ground, not listlessly, but as if deter- 
mined to make the most of their tiny proportions, while the 
head is thrown back and the tail raised, so that they nearly 
meet.' Other writers lay stress on the nervous motion of the 
Sebright cock, being almost like that of the Fantail pigeon. 
These descriptions are hardly that of the Sebright of 1896. 
A large field, it seems to us, is open for the improvement of 
the breed by intelligent fanciers in smallness and carriage." 

Even in England they are alarmed at 
the backward step in this vartei'y of Ban- 
tams. The most important feature of the 
Sebright and the one most neglected is form 
and carriage. The standard calls for a very 
■short back and a full round breast carried 
prominently forward. The body should be 
compact, deep and short. On one very impor- 
tant point the standard is silent, namely, 
carriage. This is the one very important 
feature of their make-up, as Mr. Hewitt 
wrote many years ago: "They are the very 
extreme of pride, vanity and self-impor- 
tance." Their carriage should be upright 
and striking, not drooped nor indolent. We 
see too many long, ill-formed, unattractive 
•specimens to-day. They should be bred up 
to the following form and color: The Se- 
brig"ht should be valued as follows — First, 
size and carriage; second, color and mark- 
ing, always demanding perfection of all four, —— 
for when cither is wanting the combination 
is broken and the true beauty gone. The color should be 
■for the Golden, a rich golden yellow; for Silvers, a true sil- 
very white. Any other color should not be tolerated. Both 
should be distinctly laced all around each feather with a nar- 
row stripe or edge of black. Remember that any other color 
is absolutely wrong and a wide edge or discoloration of any 
Ivind in ground color is despicable. 

The first point, size or weight, as per our standard, is 
wrong. The bird should be smaller. As to carriage, it is 
almost lost. When have we seen such style as exhibited in 
the cut of the • Silver cock? Let all take lessons 
from the illustration furnished with these articles and try 
to improve this most beautiful variety of Bantams. 

Another important feature is often lost sight of, i. e., the 
shape of the feathers of Sebrights. They should be almost 
round, or quite so at the outer end; not oblong or tapering. 
The round feather when properly laced gives the right form 
of coloring. When long and tapering the center has the ap- 
pearance of an oval white or golden stripe on the feathers. 
T?his is a very grave fault, in fact so bad that we cannot ad- 
vise the use of such a specimen under any conditions. 

Mating for best results is a matter of importance, and 
but one method can be followed with hope of success. Al- 
ways use, if possible, hens over one year old for breeders. 
Whatever your females may be, have them small and perfect 



in color. If these females are light in the point of lacing, 
mate them with a male that is too heavy in lacing for the 
show pen. If the females are heavily laced, mate them to 
a light laced male. The tendency in this variety is to lose 
in color and lacing. Never hope for the best results from 
birds that are bad in color. None but the very best 
of this variety is good enough to produce fine specimens. 

In regard to the male, study well the following: He 
should be sound of ground color; if golden, rather a little 
darker than the standard calls for, not on the reddish order, 
but like a fresh shelled almond; if silver, the ground color 
should be very clear, rather on the whitish order. Both 
should be evenly and plainly laced with a rich, greenish 
black. No mossy, smutty color of any kind ought to be 
allowed, and we must never hope for good results if much is 
present. Select one with this style of coloring and as little 
bad color as possible. 

Get the very best wing, comb and tail you can find with 
the above color, and even then remember your selection is 
only half made, for you must have with this, perfect form 
and carriage, and small size. Always remember that twen- 




^r ftEl.lA&t.5 i^ouiyKY JOtjnN 



;_-_!^ JouiAir 7n/xA(x 



A PAIR OF GOLDEN SEBRIGHTS. 

ty-eight-ounce birds are not likely to produce sixteen-ounce 
young stock. Two females with one male is better than 
four. If you use a cock bird over two years old, give him 
but one young hen. Always select birds with short, round 
feathers, and not long and narrow. Look well to tho etyl* 
and carriage of both male and female. 

PROMINENT DEFECTS IN SEBRIGHTS. 
BY PHILANDER WILLIAMS. 

About breeding Bantams, I do not know if I can impart 
the knowledge I may think I possess. I have my ideas, but 
seldom speak of them. 

In Sebrights, to keep the size down is one thing and a 
great thing for me. This I have done by selecting a small 
male, with a small leg and as good color and shape as I can 
get. In size I have never had any trouble when I confined 
myself to my own strain. When I have introduced new 
blood by importing or buying here I always have increased 
the size. Comb, I never had any trouble about. I take care of 
that as I do in my other breed. Shape, we all have lost in 
Sebrights. Twenty-five or thirty years ago they were a 
proud, strutting bird and very pretty. But now they are 
long-bodied, and the ear-lobes may be white or red. To 
me it is a great mistake; since they have lost shape and the 
white ear-lobes they have lost their attraction for me. and if 



44 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



it were not for the pleasure of trying to get them baclt, I 
would have given them up years ago. I used to practice 
hatching them in August and September to keep down the 
size, but in these days of comparison shows it does not seem 
to make much difference whether they are large or small. 
The lacing I do not think I ever worried much about. By 
mating the very best laced birds that will almost take care 
of itself. Sometimes I have been troubled with the main 
color being a little light, but care in mating will fix that. 
Too much black or smut in tail we often have, and then one 
must mate a cockerel too light in color. Like all other 
breeds, when you think only of one section of the bird, you 
are apt to lose In the others, as in the case of the Light 
Brahmas of to-day. We look to its hackle, wing and white 
surface color, and shape must take care of itself. We all 
follow fads and fashions. Is it not so? 

1'. WILLIAMS. 

BREEDING AND FEEDINC. SEBRIGHTS. 
BY IRA C. KELLER. 

Possibly there is no breed of Bantams that has had so 
much attention among the fanciers as the Sebrights. It is 
right they should, for there certainly is no breed that ap- 
proaches them in style and beauty. The narrow lacing shows 
to a great advantage, and so strikingly that at first sight 
they captivate the visitors at the shows. Breeding Sebrights 




PHOTOGRAPHIC REPRODUCTION OF SILVER SEBRIGHT Fj.ATHERS. 



in years past was very wearisome, but to-day they are so 
well and thoroughly bred that they breed a very large per 
cent of high-class birds. The fancy to-day demands a nar- 
row lacing all over the bird. This is rather difficult to 
produce, but has been greatly improved during the past five 
years. In mating, to produce this nat-row lacing, we select 
the most narrow laced birds we have that are full laced 
throughout, with other points good, and by doing this year 
after year, the lacing can be produced very narrow. 

Shape and form need looking after. Early hatched Se- 
brights usually grow too leggy, long-backed, etc. The best 
time to hatch them is from the 15th of May until the 1st of 
September. One can produce smaller size and better form 
by hatching during these months. Most American breeders 
feed Bantams too heavy and too rich food. The Sebright 
likes free range best. It will find nearly all the food needed 
for its growth. They like to rove over pasture lands, through 
woods and along weedy fence rows. If given their liberty 
they are extremely prolific and will lay nearly the year 
through. 

In feeding young Sebrights, we feed during the first two 
weeks bread crumbs and oatmeal; then we change to a chop- 
ped food of one part corn meal, one part ground oats ard 
one part bran scalded and mixed to a dry crumbling mass. 
For the rest of the day we feed cracked wheat and corn, and 
as soon as they will eat whole wheat we give it to them. 
They grow to maturity very rapidly; usually are crowing at 
Six to eight weeks old. No more attractive bird' 
can be kepit around the house. 

Sebrights are very profitable to breed for 
show purposes. Good specimens are always in 
great demand at good prices. We have bred them 
for over twenty-five years and have never had 
any trouble in disposing of all we raise. 

IRA C. KELLER. 

FIFTEEN YEAR.S WITH SEBRIGHTS. 
BY MR. ATHERTON. 

To decide the question of how to mate the 
Sebright Bantams for the best results, one must 
know at the very beginning what style of bird 
he desires, whether the darker birds with heavy 
lacing, showing strongly in contrast with white 
or gold web of the feathers and such as are 
recognized as distinctly the American style of the 
Sebright Bantams; or the style of the English 
fanciers, which has a much narrower line of 
lacing, and hence imparts a lighter color to the 
fowl, and to our own taste makes a much pretftier 
bird. As a rule the American Sebright, with its 
heavier lacing, has a much darker under-color, 
especially on the back between the wings and 
near the tail. But what does the dark under- 
color amount to anyway? The standard does not 
even mention the subject, and yet some breeders 
are continually harping on dark or black under- 
(?olor, and it matters not whether 'the feathers are 
laced or not, so long as the under-color is dark, 
etc. Having bred Sebright Bantams scientifically 
for fifteen years, we can say that we have seen 
just as evenly laced birds all around each feather, 
with the under-color a white or light slate, as we 
have seen with the under-color black or dark 
slate. The English style birds are all beauti- 
fully laced and yet always have white under-color. 

If a medium dark bird is required, 
then it will be well to mate a light cock 
with dark pullets, or a dark cockerel with 



THE BANTAM FOWI,. 



45 



light hens, always choosing a male bird for his small head, 
carried well back, with eyes full and bright, comb rose, 
square in front and even upon the head the small points on 
the top of the comb not too large, but rather slender, pointed 
and evenly covering the entire surface of the comb, tapering 
at the rear in a spike slightly inclined upwards. 

The Standard of Perfection calls for a white ear-lobe, 
but the sooner this mistaken fancy is obliterated the bett'.r 
will it be for all concerned, for it is a point now ignored by 
our best breeders and judges, and a bugaboo to amateurs. 
(This is an error, our Standard states, color of ear-lobe im- 
material, etc.— Author.) A tapering neck, well arched, free 
from any trace of hackle, is an essential point, as is also a 
tail free from sickle feathers; although a male with slightW 
covered tail feathers, not exceeding more than an inch be- 
yond the others, will prove the more vigorous and best 
breeder. Let the tail coverts be well and evenly laced, the 
tail feathers free from mossiness, or the blending of black 
•with the ground color in the web of the feathers, but rather 
choose one with tail feathers, the body of which is pure 
white in the Silvers and a rich golden in the Goldens, and let 
«ach feather in the tail be also laced all around with black. 
This point is too much neglected and we see only the tail 
feathers tipped or spangled with black. 

With matings as above described, you will hardly fail of 
breeding many prize winners. As to the number of females 
to be associated with the male, breeders sometimes differ, 
but we are in the habit of making up pens of one male and 
eight and ten females. It is advisable to have for each pen 
two males equally good, yet differing in some special points, 
and then change them, allowing one bird to run with the 
flock one day, and the other one the next day, and so on; 
by thus alternating the males the eggs are much more fer- 
tile. We have always heard so much about the infertility 
■of Sebright Bantam eggs, but in all our experience, with 
Bantams of every kind, we never had any such trouble. All 
these remarks apply equally to both the Golden and the 
Silver Sebright Bantams. atherto.v. 




SILVER SEBRIGHT COCK, A MODEL FOR STYLE 
AND DISTRIBUTION OF COLOR. 



i\, ,ite 




15^ 



£y Courtesy of Fancten' Gazette, England. 

AN IDEAL PAIR OF SILVER SEERIGHTS. 



THE ENGUSH METHOD OF MATING SEBRIGHTS. 
BY P. PROUD, IN "THE FEATHERED WORLD," ENGLAND. 

In breeding Se- 
brights it is much the 
best to use two pens, 
ont for cockerel breed- 
ing and the otther for 
puliets. In the cock- 
erel pen select a sound 
laced cock, inclined to 
the heavy lacing rath- 
er than fine. He mast 
be particularly good 
and distinct in breast 
lacing and tail. This 
is highly important. 
The flights or wing 
ends of the cock 
should be well laced, 
ground color of tail 
clear, and take 
care that he shows 
the desired damson 
color around the eyes 
the more the beti.er. 
The hens to match 

him should be lightly or finely laced, but the lacing should be 
a sound black, not edged with brown. Each flight feather 
of the wing should be disidnctly laced right to the end, tail 
perfectly clear in the center, but every feather laced, face 
dark mulberry. 

In breeding for pullets I should prefer the cockerel to 
be very fine in lacing, but would at the same time require 
the pullets to be rather heavily laced, as dense a black as is 
possible to get, and at the same time the lacing must be dis- 
tinct and even. The cock for pullet breeding should also 
have a fairly good breast, a good comb essential, clear in 
center of tail feathers, each feather laced, and well laced 
wing-ends. As I said before, a cockerel 
with a tendency to have sickles is very 
useful as a pullet breeder, and the eggs 
by a "sickled" cnck have been found 
much more fertile than by others. On 
the other hand, cocks possessing short 
'tails have invariably been found to be 
poor breeders. 

The hens in the pullet pen, in addi- 
tion to being rather heavily laced, 
should possess a good amount of lac- 
ing down ihe thighs, tail coverts, and 
tail, this is very important in puUeit 
breeding. 

In breeding Sebrights always se- 
lect a small cock in preference to 
small hens, as larger hens are always 
the most productive and the chickens 
easier to rear than those ba'tched from 
eggs from small hens, and on account 
of the delicate nature of the Sebright 
chicks it is at all times better to use 
hens in preference to pullets in the 
breeding pen, although if the pullets 
are a good size and early hatched, I 
see no reason why. they should not 
prove equally good. 

In conclusion, let me remind my 
readers of the great value of inbreeding 
in Sebrights. a breed in which color 



46 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



and markings play such an important part, and which It is 
almost impossible to obtain without inbreeding. If you 
think by purchasing half a dozen of the very best exhibition 
specimens from Tom, Dick and Harry, that you are bound 
to breed the same the following season, you will quickly find 
out your mistake, for it is very probable that the majority of 
the produce would be little better than wasters, whereas had 
you purchased only a couple of good breeding birds both of 
the same strain I have no hesitation in saying that the pro- 
duce of these two birds would be of more value than all 
those bred from the half dozen exhibition birds, which 
would no doubt have cost you four times as much. There- 
fore start with some reliable strain and keep it pure. As 
long as your chickens are healthy you can go on with the 
same strain; always breed from healthy stock birds only, 
and when your chickens come weakly and are difficult to 
rear you will know that you have reached the limit of in- 
breeding, beyond which you should never try to go, but in- 
troduce another male bird with a certain amount of your 
own strain in him, when you will be able to go on again as 
successfully as before. P. PROUD. 







By Courtesy oj Feathered IVorld. 

MR. H. INM.\N'S BLACK ROSE COMB BANTAMS. 

ROSE COMB BANTAMS— BLACK AND WHITE. 

They Might Be Callt-d Hamburg Bantams, which name would be appro- 
priate—What Others Say About Them. 

The Black Bantam is spoken of at so early a day that 
some contend that it was his imprudent crow that got St. 
Peter into trouble. Be this as it may, he and his companion, 
the White, began their career long before any one took notice 
of them to keep p. record of their beginning. Black and White 
Bantams with rose and single combs, with and without feath- 
ered legs, are mentioned as exisiting centuries ago. Moubray 
mentions in 1816, the fact that some Bantams were lately 
obtained that were extremely small, having legs as smooth 
as Games. He also gives to India the credit of their origin. 
(The earliest illustrations of Black Bantams show the rose 
comb and smooth legs.) Other writers claim Java as the 
original home of all Bantams, but be this as it may, they 
-came to England over two hundred years ago, and the origi- 



nal were booted or feathered legged. Of these we will writ© 
later, only mentioning the above facts to show about the- 
date of mention of smooth legged Bantams. 

The Black and White Rose Comb Bantams began to gain 
favor ai I prominence as show birds in 1850. About this 
time some were shown that only weighed as follows: Cock 
fourteen ounces, and hen twelve ounces at twenty-two 
months old. At this early day the Whites were very true 
to color. Then perfectly white plumage throughout without 
a single stain, couid be seen. These birds had also white 
beaks, legs, toes and ear-lobes. We allow at the present time 
the yellow beaks and legs and with them often have the yel- 
low plumage and ear-lobes; for weight we allow twenty-six 
ounces for a cock bird, just twelve ounces more than the 
birds of fifty years ago. 

It may be of interest to our readers to know what these 
Bantams were like fifty years ago, so we quote from the 
words of Messrs. Andrew Gwynne and Bailey, noted fanciers 
of the time. As to weight, they say: "The less In reason 
the better, but never diminutiveness at the sacrifice of shape, 
feather and condition. The Blacks: The males should 
have a full crimson rose comb, with 
wattles and face of the same hue, but 
with ear-lobes perfectly white; plum- 
age glossy black, reflecting purple 
tints; tail full and sickled; short legs, 
which with the feet should be of a 
dark horn color. The hen is dusky 
black, with her comb and wattles. 
small, and of a dull leaden hue." 

Of their appearance they sayr 
"Bold of carriage, a very caricature 
of Bantam arrogance. For the Whites 
the same form is demanded, and color 
as above stated." Rev. G. F. Hudson 
bred wonders of the White variety in 
those early days, and he wi-ote that 
yellow beaks and fee't were quite aa 
objection. 

In breeding Blat-k Rose Combs at 
this time the dull color of former days 
is not allowable in the female. It 
must be as in the male — lustrous black. 
,^ To obtain this rick black with beetle 

•''=*^^^^ green sheen in our females require* 

special breeding. A rich, true colored 
male must be mated to dull colored 
females to produce the best col- 
ored males. These same males mat- 
ed to rich colored females pro- 
duce fine females, but the males 
will show red in hackle and saddle and on wings. 
Male birds so bred should be reserved for pullet breed- 
ing only. To get the very best results, you must make 
special matings for both males and females. In selecting 
breeding stock special attention must be given to the quality 
of comb on both male and females. Look well for good- 
shape, spikes and peaks, for no matter how good otherwise, 
a bad comb kills the appearance. Do not encourage bad 
lobes by breeding from either a male or female having them,, 
for no fault will grow faster with as little encouragement. 
Do not pen more than four females with the male; three is 
better. If these points are well looked after and your birds 
are right in form, carriage and color, quite a large per cent 
of good chicks should be the result of such matings. Sep- 
arate mating is not required for the production of niaks 
or females in the Whites. If comb, ear-lobe, color and form 
qualities are right they should breed fine specimens, but we 



jya 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



€7 



favor the white bill and legs, knowing as we do. that our 
Standard prefers them yellow. Our experience tells us that 
these colors add or detract from the pureness of both plum- 
age and ear-lobes. The yellow beak and legs have an influ- 
ence over the color of both, and the color is much purer 
when the white leg is well established in the blood. 

To Mr. E. Hutton the credit is largely due for the pres- 
ent English type of Rose Comb Bantams. They are minia- 
ture Hamburgs in all their points. No doubt they were 
crossed with the Hamburgs to establish the form and color. 
Our standard allows blue or leaden blue for the legs of White 
Hamburgs, and yellow or white for the White Rose Comb 
Bantam. When white, a pinkish tinge on the back and be- 
tween the scales is allowed. We consider this a mistake. 

The proper weights for Rose Comb Bantams in good show 
form are about twenty ounces for a cock, eighteen for a hen, 
and in proportion for young birds. Some ounces less than 
this adds to their beauty if good form and vigor are main- 
tained. When you consider that our standard only makes 
two ounces all along the line between a Rose 
Comb or Sebright and a Buff Pekin, you must 
be surprised to know that the English standard 
calls for a weight in Cochin Bantams, of thirty- 
two to thirty-six ounces for males; twenty- 
eight to thirty-two ounces for females; for Se- 
bright Bantams, twenty-two ounces for males 
and eighteen ounces for females; for Rose 
Combs, sixteen to twenty ounces for males, 
fourteen to seventeen ounces for females, while 
we allow for the Rose Combs, twenty-two to 
twenty-six ounces for males and twenty to 
twenty-two ounces for females, six ounces more 
for each than they, almost one-half pound over 
their weight, and even then some of o.ur speci- 
mens crowd close to the overweight line. 

Most certainly the weights for Sebrights 
and Rose Comb Bantams should be reduced 
somewhat in our standard, and the birds sbould 
be bred to them. Again, our standard calls for 
a very short back for Rose Comb males, the 
English for a moderately long one. When did 
you see a Rose Comb with a very short back, 
being fashioned after the Hamburg? Their 
backs favor their forms. 

Many little points like these should be well 
considered by all Bantam fanciers. We formu- 
late our standard oftentimes without due con- 
sideration for nature and thus word a descrip- 
tion that if followed to the letter would change the real 
breed characteristics. 

To breed Black Rose Comb Bantams at the present time, 
one must strive for a very lustrous beetle green shade of 
plumage in both male and female. Dull colors will not 
answer. To secure this shade of color, the very best colored 
specimens of both male and female should be mated together. 
If this method of mating produces reddish shading in males, 
use dull colored females to reduce the brilliancy in the males 
and keep the females of this cross for producing males. 

To secure pure white color in White Rose Comb Ban- 
tams use only as breeders birds that have pure white plum- 
age to the skin, white quills to their feathers, white ear- 
lobes and whitish colored beaks and legs. If pure white in 
plumage and ear-lobes they can stand a cut for beak and 
legs if these are not the best of color. 

THE BLACK rose: COMB. 

The Black Rose Comb of to-day is an exact miniature in 
form, shape and carriage of the Black Hamburg. They have 



the peculiar droop of body and tail which belongs to the 
Hamburg. Shape cannot be too strongly considered and 
valued in these beautiful little fowls. When of the best 
quality they are truly beautiful. When under medium qual- 
ity they have no value whatever. The size and shape of ear- 
lobe has been greatly Improved. They should be of good 
size very even in shape, soft as kid, smooth and white. The 
comb of the male must be square and full in front, well 
pointed all over the top, no hollows or thumb marks about itj 
not very wide; nor too narrow as it runs back and tapers 
to a point. This point or heel of the comb should be finely 
formed, and should turn up rather than be either straight 
out or drooping; wattles full, well shaped, and as fine almost 
as silk. The face of both the male and the female should 
be free from any sign of white. The neck should be short 
and well feathered; with a sweeping hackle that comes well 
down on the shoulder. The rise of the tail and the sweep 
of the hackle leaves but little space for back— which must 
favor the Hamburg type; wings full and carried rather low; 



..M 







BLACK ROSE COMB BANTAM — MALE. 

tail long, full and well sickled. A well favored cockerel must 
have a sweeping tail. Some of the best informed writers on 
the subject tell us that the Back Rose Comb has a longer 
tail when a cockerel than it ever again possesses, as each 
year it grow? less in both fullness and length. The littleRose 
Comb male cannot have too much tail, either in main tail, 
hangers or sickle feathers; the broader and longer the main 
sickles are the better. Shanks and feet of both male and 
female should be smooth and black; shanks fine and rather 
short. The male throughout should be rather long of 
feather, small in size, and well endowed with courage. 

The female should be almost as beautiful and neat as 
the male, her long wings hanging down and her head up as 
smart and bright as a Game, her comb finely formed, and her 
lobes large, round smooth and white. The color of both the 
male and female should be a rich glossy black that glistens 
with sheen. Then cannot have too much richness of plum- 
age, provided there are no purple bars or bad color of any 
kind. Tlie little Rose Comb hen is as beautiful almost as 
the male when of good quality — and there can hardly be 



48 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



anything of less value in the way of a Bantam than a 
poor Rose Comb. 

Good health and condition are of great importance to all 
Rose Combs. They are naturally rather delicate, and de- 
mand care and attention. Diphtheritic roup seems to be 
their enemy, and must be guarded . against by having dry 
quarters that are well protected and properly ventilated, and 
kept as warm as a building can be kept without artificial 
heat. Draughts or currents of air blowing over them, either 
night or day, are bad for them; in fact such conditions are 
bad for all Bantams. More attention should be paid to ven- 
tilation of poultry houses of all kinds than is at present 
manifested. If a man goes to bed with a window open so 
that the wind blows directly on him, he is more than likely 
to get up in the morning with a cold — if he gets up at all. 
It is just the same with a fowl. 

MATING BLACK ROSE COMB BANTAMS. 

In mating Black Rose Combs, you will find that the best 
Tiiales come from the dull colored females; and the best pul- 
lets from the richest colored hens. Many of the males from 
rich colored hens show bronze or red in plumage, and for 
.this reason double matings are made; but the same results 



these high qualities they will be beauties of which we will 
be proud. 

Poor lobes and short plumage are- the leading faults with 
the Whites. To remedy this, the Blacks have been crossed 
into them; but the results have not pleased those who tried 
the experiment so far as I can learn. Bad legs, and black 
in plumage, show for generations. Greater progress has 
been made by selecting the best to be found and pairing 
them, and working for an out cross from other yards, rather 
than to breed in the black that is bound to cause so much 
trouble. In mating, place together the very best pair you 
can get, and continue to do that each year. Whenever you 
can find a well bred specimen of good quality, make use of 
it for new blood to add vigor to your line; for this variety 
has been so in-bred for years that anything like an outcross 
must help them. One cause of their unpopularity is that 
they must be washed every time they are shown, for they 
are apt to get very dirty. The beak and shanks of the White 
Rose Comb must be white or yellow. If you have the white 
shanks and beak you are almost certain to have very white 
plumage — a feature which is most valuable. 

We quote the following from the Stock Keeper on Rose 
Comb Bantams therein described as 




BLACK AND WHITE ROSK COMB BANTAMS— MALE AND FEMALE 

■may be ob'ained by having both kinds of hens with each 
male and keeping the eggs separate. In this way you have 
the advantage of raising good chicks of both sexes from one 
male. In mating and breeding for this very rich color 
sooner or later gives trouble from too much color. It is best 
always to have at hand a few females of the dull dead black 
shade to mate with your highest colored males. Of all things 
in mating Rose Combs, be sure that the comb and ear-lobss 
of all of your breeding stock are natural, and not made or 
fixed. There is so much faking in head points practiced that 
it is just as well to be fully Informed on this or you may 
have a lot of bad combs as the result of your years' labor at 
breeding. 

BRSKDING THE WHITE ROSE COMB BANTAMS. 

These are not as popular either here or in England, 
nor is the quality as good— if we judge by those that we see 
in this country — as the Black Rose Comb. Mr. Hearnshaw, 
of England, in his book on Rose Comb Bantams, tells us that 
the best Whites ai'e bred in Yorkshire, and that Driffie:d 
is the great center for them. The Whites have gained in 
popularity, public favor and in quality, within a few years; 
and it may be that the time is not far distant when we shall 
have them equal in quality with the Blacks. They should 
iave all the qualities of shape, comb, lobe and feather that 
the Blacks have, and in addition to this they should bs a 
pure, spotless white in color. When we can have them with 



HAMBURG BANTAMS 

BY P. PROUD, ENGLAND. 

In concluding the variety Bantam arti- 
cles with Hamburg Bantams, I bethought 
myself that I could not do better (seeing I 
had never bred these beautiful varieties) 
ban write Mr. John William Famsworth, 
who I knew had made a specialty of Silver 
Spangled Hamburg Bantams for many years, 
not only breeding them, but also exhibiting 
them successfully at a few shows where the 
eli.ssification was at all suitable. 

To my request for infonnation as to 
how he started and eventually perfected the 
S'lver Spangled Hamburg Bantam, Mr. 
Farnsworth wrote me a thorough fancier- 
like reply, which I cannot do better than 
give in his own words: 
"The following I do not say is the right way to go about 
the work, but it is the line pursued in producing my birds. 
My accommodation has always been limited, hence anything 
but Bantams in the fowl line was out of the question. 

"Born with the hen fever of a permanent character, a 
general liking for inything small, and a great admirer of the 
'black and white' combination, the Silver Spangled Ham- 
burg Bantam, although only existing in my mind's eye, 
stamped itself at once to be the very thing. A really good 
but undersized Silver Spangled Hamburg cockerel of notable 
descent having been mated to a couple of rather large 
Sebright hens, resulted in my being, the following year. In 
possession of a fairly good Mooney cross cockerel which was 
mated to a somewhat large blue legged White Rose Comb 
hen, a Black Rose Comb hen, and his sister, a Mooney cross 
pullet. Another similar pullet was bred to a pure White 
Rose Comb cock. 

"The remaining Mooney cross pullet, the smallest of 
the three, was put back to her sire, the Hamburg cock, the 
services of the Sebright hen being at once and forever dis- 
pensed with. 

"These three pens produced a number of odd-looking 
chickens, of various markings, but a very good selection was 
obtainable therefrom, some of which were bred together, 
others were mated with White Rose Combs 
and Black Rose Combs to improve size and 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



49 



spangling. By continued perseverance I produced some 
grand little birds in every respect but tail, wMch I could not 
get satisfactory. Eventually I bought a Silver Spangled 
Hamburg cock with a perfect tail and but ZV2 pounds in 
weight (of the same strain as the originaJ Hamburg cock) 
which, mated, to a couple of my largest Spangled hens, gave 
me some chickens with the desired tail, but, of course, over- 
sized. 

"These, bred together with care in selection for a few 
seasons, enabled mo to pen three birds at Basingstoke Show 
under Mr. W. M. Leach, a club judge of the Variety Bantam 
Club, which supported the show, and I was awarded first 
prize in the A. O. V. cock class, and second and third prizes 
in the corresponding hen class, and, to me, very gratifying 
result. Since then I have but once missed the money when 
exhibiting them, and that at the Midland Counties Bantam 
Show at West Bromwich, where in seventeen entries I got 
the h. c. 

'"I have, of course, had the usual amount of trouble, ex- 
pense and disappointments in bringing them into form, but 
I consider them without doubt one of the handsomest 
Variety Bantams out at present, and the Feathered World 
and other fanciers' papers have all spoken most favorably 
of them.' 

Such is Mr. Pamsworth's method of producing Silver 
Spangled Hamburg Bantams, which are without doubt one 
of the prett'est of all Variety Bantams, and the production 
of which presents no difficulties whatever. AVith ordinary 
luck and careful selection each year, by in-breeding after 
having obtained the desired color, and by breeding as lata 
as June to reduce ihe size, there is no reason why exhibition 
specimens Should not be produced in about four years. The 
only difficulty I can see would be in keeping the length and 
flow of tail feather, which to a certain extent would be lost 
in breeding very laie. 

Color and length of feather should be your guide in 
mating up your breeding pens, rather than size, as size can 
always be remedied, and very materialy so, by feeding and 
in-breeding. 

Gold Spangles could easily be bred in the same way by 





BOOTED BANT.\M MALE. 

(After the Japanese Form) . 



BOOTBD BANTAM FEMALE. 

(After the Japanese Fortn.) 

using a Golden Sebright hen, but they are not nearly so 
beautiful as the Silvers, and I don't think for one moment 
that these would ever become popular, or pay for the time 
and labor. 

I should think it would be quite possible to breed Silver 
and Golden Penciled Bantams by using Silver and Golden 
Penciled Hamburg cocks, preference being given to those 
birds which exceed in length of tail feather, and mating 
these to rather large Sebrights of their respective color. To 
get the proper fine and even penciling would take four cr 
five years, as it would be difficult to get rid of the lacing on 
flights, but the time would be fully repaid in the long run. 
Unless the young fancier is prepared to devote both time 
and patience, and to persevere for a few years at an uphill 
game, he cannot possibly expect to perfect any new breed. 

p. PRODD. 
BOOTED BANTAMS. 

Where the original Booted Bantams came from will 
never be known positively, but we do know that they came 
to us from Bantam, a town and distriot in Java, more than 
three hundred years ago, and that they were booted 
and of many colors, some having single, others rose, 
or double combs, as then called. How they .came to 
that province will never be known. One of the early writers 
of 1850 tells us that feather legged and feather footed Ban- 
tams were among the earliest and most common of their 
race, and they were in color, black, white and yellow, and 
spangled in these colors. They were larger than now, and 
the feathers on their legs and feet were frequently four or 
five inches long. 

Booted Bantams of the present day, like other fowls, are 
much improved. More varieties of colors of them are seen 
than formerly. Judging from the illustrations taken from 
Mr. Entwisle's book on Bantams, the shape would point to 
a cross with the Japanese Bantam. The back, neck and tail . 
of the female, and the whole body and tail of the male, show 
the Japanese form on heavily booted legs. Either our 
Booted Bantams are behind the times, or the illustration is 
at fault. 

The English recognize the following varieties in Booted 
Bantams: Black, White, Speckled Black and White, 
Speckled Red, and Dutch Bearded. The Sultan Bantams are 
almost of the same class. The English writers place the 
Burmese and Silkies with them, but this, I think, is a little 
too much. I (juote from Mr. Entwisle's book on Bantams 



50 



THE BANTAM FOWIv. 



the following statement on Booted Bantams: "Take the 
best known varieties, White and Black Booted. Both are 
considerably larger than other Bantams, having been bred 
more for feather than for size, or, as some affirm, they have 
been allowed to breed any way, with no definite set purpose 
in the mind of the breeder as to a model for perfection. The 
result is, some closely resemble the .Japanese in form and 
carriage, holding their wings and tail as they do, but having 
longer legs; others are shorter in leg and have a higher car- 
riage of wings and a lower tail. This class finds more favor 
with our judges and breeders, and we think will continue to 
do so." 

At the present time the English cultivate the Japanese 
form, only they wish the wings held up more and the tail 
thrown back or down more than the Japs, but they favor a 
shorter leg than formerly. On one point we should be very 
particular — the color of legs and beak. The white beak and 
legs ai-e a distinguishing feature in them, as the pale bill is 
to the Aylesbury. 

Booted Bantams should have a small, round head; 
bright, prominent eyes; handsomely shaped comb, and wat- 




EOOTED BANTAMS— WHITE COCK ANI> ULACK HKN. 

ties of tine texture and rich color; ear-lobes, bright red and 
close-fitting; neck, full or heavy at base, nicely tapered to 
the head and rather long as compared with the size of the 
bird; hackle, very long and flowing over back; back, short 
and rather slanting; the tendency towards erect carriage 
gives the back a slight incline towards the tail; body, plump 
and short. The wings, tail, hocks and toe feathering are the 
distinguishing feature of the Booted Bantams. These we 
shall try to describe as they should be in a perfect specimen. 

The wings of a Booted Bantam should be long in flights 
and carried drooping, not tucked up as in a Cochin. The 
hock feathers should be quite long; if five or six inches in 
length and quite full, it adds much to the bird's appearance. 
Sh<?nks should be long enough to properly support the feath- 
ering of hock, which should not drag on the ground; shank 
feathering not very full at hock, but should increase lower 
down. Feathers of outer toes and lower shank should be 
very profuse and long, the heavier and longer they are the 
more valuable. The heavy foot feathers, long wings and 
hock feathering of a fine specimen make it necessary to pro- 
vide clean quarters for their home. When soiled and broken 
they are a disgusting sight. 

The tail of both male and female should be full and car- 



ried upright. The sickles of the male should be long and 
handsomely cuPved over the back. The tail should not be 
carried so far forward as on the Japanese, but a little after 
the Leghorn style of tail. The female is of the same form 
as the male, with much less comb, wattle, ear-lobe and 
hackle. Her hock and foot feathering should be very profuse. 
The preceding describes the true form of a Booted Ban- 
tam in its natural condition, free from all taint of Cochin 
or Japanese blood. Of whatever color, they should have 
th._>ir own natural form and carriage. When fashioned after 
the White Cochin Bantams they should be discarded as of 
no value. The color should be pure silvery white; or, when 
of any other color, rich and bright of its kind. The Blacks 
should be rich and lustrous of color and their beaks and legs 
black. The Whiskered or Muffled are just like the others, 
only they have heavy muff or feathers on cheek and under 
their beaks, also shorter legs and not so much feathering 
on hock and feet. They are seldom seen. Only a few care 
for or keep them. The .Splashed or Spangled are marked 
very much like the Houdans. Few fancy them and they are 
seldom seen, even in the show room. The Whiskered or 
Muffled Booted Bantams came from Germany 
to England about 1870. They had short legs, 
broad saddle and smaller tails than the other 
type. These were bred by a few who admired 
them in their purity. Some of very rich qual- 
ity were shown by Mrs. Ricketts, winning in 
open competition againsit the othera. These 
birds winning over the original type, changed 
the line of breeding somewhat; breeders 
adopted the shorter leg and higher carriage 
of wing. Many also adopted the Japanese 
form, with a longer leg, thus preventing the 
hock feathers from touching the ground. This 
intermixing of the. heavy form and short legs 
of the Whiskered variety and the Japanese 
type has so changed the shape that you now 
seldom see good specimens of the original type 
in White Booted. Why these changes should 
be made in form of these varieties we cannot 
understand, while at the same time the win- 
ning Blacks are fashioned after the original 
style, having more size, the upright carriage, 
and legs long enough for the heavy hock feath- 
ering. 
To reproduce the best form and feathers in this variety, 
select as your breeding birds the most perfect specimens. 
It is useless to hope to produce valuable young from inferior 
breeding stock. Poor specimens have no value. The only 
real merit in a Booted Bantam is superior quality. If th'S 
is lacking they are no better than half-breeds. The most 
perfect specimens obtainable yield but a limited number 
of really meritorious chicks. This being the case, discard all 
that fall below the line of real merit and by using only the 
best, improve their quality. 

When the old birds begin to molt and the young to lose 
their chick feathers, great care should be taken to prevent 
their toot feathers from being broken. About six weeks 
prior to the time you wish to exhibit them they should be 
cooped in dry, clean quarters. Coops not much larger than 
an exhibition pen are best. This prevents their scratching 
and destroying foot feathers. The floor of the coop should 
be covered with dry sand and should be cleaned each day. 
Never allow any food to fall into the sand, as this tempts 
them to scratch. If any part of the plumage is soiled it 
should be washed properly before sending to the exhibition. 
See full directions iu another chapter on "Washinf for Ex.t 
hibition." 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



51 



SULTAN BANTAMS. 

Sultan Bantams are so much like the Booted Bantams 
that we win put them in this class for description. The Sul- 
tan fowl is first mentioned in the Poultry Book of Teget- 
meier as coming from Turkey in 1854. They are described 
as being the Sultan, or feather Footed White Polish, resem- 
bling as they do the White Polish in many ways, having, 
however, shorter legs and fuller tail equipment, with vulture 
hocks and leg and toe feathering. They are somewhat 
smaller than the Polish fowls. The Sultan Bantams are a 
Sultan Booted Bantam, crossed and reduced by selection; 
or, in other words, a White Booted Bantam with a crest like 
a Polish and five toes like the Sultan. 

Our standard recognizes only White Booted Bantams. 
The Sultan Bantam is not recognized by us. The White 
Booted Bantam could be made a most attractive variety it 
carefully bred. We should add the Black variety to our list. 

In breeding these birds, mate together the most perfect 
specimens you can find, and reduce their size by selecting 
the smallest each year for breeders. Always use white birds 
that have white beaks and legs. Never tolerate in your 
breeding yards any other color than white beaks and white 
legs for White Booted Bantams, and you will soon establish 
this as a fixture in your birds. Decide whether you prefer 
the old style or original Booted Bantam or the new style 
fashioned after the Japanese form. When this question is 
decided, use only birds of the desired type. 



NANKIN BANTAMS. 

These little beauties came into notice many, many years 
ago, and they have 'taken part in the make-up of more of 
their kind than any one bird. They are seldom seen in 
England, and we hardly think a single specimen is owned 
by any fancier in America at this time. For their descrip- 
tion, I must depend on the writings of others. 
Comb may be single or double, the best of early 
days had single combs; legs blue. Some had white legs, but 
my opinion is that the double combs and white legs caane 
from a cross with other birds. When bred in England color 
of legs and style of comb did not matter so all in one pen 
were alike. Thus the two competed. These birds were 
quite neglected until they fell into the hands of game 
keepers, who use them for rearing partridges. Mr. Cresswell 
brought them into notice early in the seventies, by exhibit- 
ing a beautiful pen at the Crystal Palace Show. He pre- 
ferred the double combs and white legs. I give our readers 
his description of them: "Size as small as possible, comb 
single or double, the latter preferred; legs blue or white, 
the former are preferred, but hard to find; the birds of my 
original stock had white legs. As long as these birds match 
in show pens the comb and color of legs are not essential 
points." 

The cock has an amusing and conceited walk, with 
flowing sickle, tail and wings almost sweeping the ground. 
His breast and body are of a deep ginger color; the back, 
wings, coverts, neck and saddle a rich, orange chestnut; 
tail, dark chestnut, shading into black, almost like the 
original Cochin Bantams in color. The hen's general color 
is a clear buff, like a Buff Cochin. Dark, medium and light 
colored birds are found among them. Most of them have a 
shaded or penciled hackle, but they should be free from this, 
with tails brown, shading into black at the ends. The un- 
seen half of primary in both male and female is often black. 
They are naturally very domestic and tame, excellent layers 
of good sized eggs and careful mothers for their chicks. 
They breed very true to form and color. The fact that 
these birds breed so true to their own type proves their orig- 



inality. If taken in hand by experts of the present day they 
would soon become a favorite, both for their beauty and 
sterling qualities. Since writing the above, Mr. John Glas- 
gow has secured and bred some of these little beauties of 
most perfect form and feather. 

The Nankin cock is a very deep cinnamon or reddish 
buff all over, except tail, which shows more or less black, 
the less the better of course; legs and feet blue, comb, face 
and lobes red, comb single, eyes red. The hen is similar 
to the cock in all points except body color, which instead 
of being cinnamon should be a rich buff. 

In breeding Nankins care should be used in breeding 
from those birds which are the soundest color throughout, 
especially in flights and tail; any showing white should be 
rejected from the breeding pen. 



CUCKOO BANTAMS. 

Cuckoo Bantams, or miniature Scotch Greys, are like 
our .\merican Dominiques. They have single combs and 
white legs. They are produced both in Scotland and England 




By Courtesy oj "Poultry," England, 

WHITE HOOTED BANTAMS. 

quite independently. Another variety of these same birds 
has been produced by crossing them with Rose Combs, giv- 
ing them the rose combs and darker legs. These crosses 
produce Cuckoo color with rose combs, Andalusian color 
and light slate blue color, also both white and black with 
both styles of combs. These Bantams are almost lost sight 
of, having been pushed aside by the many new kinds more 
handsome of form and feather. 

In my boyhood days we had the African Bantam, or 
Crow chicken, very small and finely built. In form they 
were very much like the early Games, the male being 
marked very much like our present Brown Leghorns and the 
females perfectly black. These little fowls bred as true as 
sparrows year after year. I bred from the product of the 
one original pair. They had for their home a big box cov- 
ered with stiff paper and painted with tar, the roof made of 
boards to shed the water. Here winter and summer they 
grew and thrived under conditions that our present fowls 
could not stand. They had all the corn they could eat, but 
their size kept just the same. These fowls came by steamer 
to Philadelphia to a man who had a paper mill. He bred 



52 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



from them and sent their product to the children of his sis- 
ter, and from thera came my pair from which I bred for 
years with no new blood. This experience illustrates ths 
constitutional powers of these small fowls. Follow this 
plan with judgment and form, size and color are at your 
command in handling and reducing these small fowls. 



SCOTCH GREY BANTAMS 

The Scotch Grey Bantam is a variety which, if prop- 
erly known, especially sou'th of the Border, would have far 
more admirers than it can claim at present. With the ex- 
ception of a few, the fanciers of this variety are very back- 
ward in looking after and furthering the interests of ths 
breed. It is about time something was done to encourage 
fanciers of this variety to show birds near the Standard 
as possible, and be able to win with them. How can it b3 
expected to augment the list of Scotch Grey Bantam breed- 
ers, when at one of our principal shows the best bird is 
"commended" while one of the prize winners is worth abso- 
iutely.noihingV I well remember at a large show one of the 
prize winning birds, a cock, having a very bad light colored 
hackle, a pale straw colored body barred with brown, and 
a very dark and cloudy tail. 

We are sometimes told that there are different types of 
Scotch Grey Ban' ams. Truly there are many colors ar.d 
shapes, and dreadful looking things some of them are, but 
there is only one kind that is worthy of being a type, and 
that is the bird which resembles the typical large Scotch 
Grey in everything but size. 

The ground color of a Scotch Grey Bantam should be 
of a pale steel grey, not white, and every feather barred 
straight across, not V-shaped. The breeder should try to 
get the feathers barred right to the roots. As I am writing 
this I have feathers before me that were taken from some 
of Mr. Matthew Smiih's large Scotch Greys, which are 
barred right to the roots, on Huff as well, and just as d s- 
linct and clear as the upper parts. 

Some otherwise good birds have a few black feathers: 
these I consider one of the least faults, but white feathers 
I do not like, while brown or red feathers I consider a dis- 
qualification, and should not Vhink of using a bird to breed 
from that possessed them. 

The dark bars across the feathers should be small, and 
an intense steel black. These bars in a certain light should 
show a beetle green lustre, and the tip of every feather 
ought to finish with a sound black bar. The color of a 
Scotch Grey Bantam should be the same shade throughout, 
viz., head, neck, body, thighs, and tail. As regards the color 
of the beak, legs, feet and toe nails, all these should cer- 
tainly be distinctly marked with black. The comb should 
be of medium size, upright, well set on head, and nicely ser- 
rated, and of a bright red color: , ear-lobes and wattles 
small, and a bright red color to match the comb; body, neck, 
thighs and legs of medium length, not short and cobby as 
in a Rose Comb. 

White in ear-lobes is a common and serious fault. Every 
breed of fowls ha.-s a leaning towards white in ear-lob£s. 
but th^s variety, T am sorry to say, has a weakness that 
wa.v, especially some strains; not only are their ear-'.obrs 
very white, but the shape of them is round. For this fault 
we have to thank those fanciers who have introduced b'.ack 
Rose Comb blood into their birds. 

The Scotch Grey Bantams are sometimes called 
"Cuckoos," a name which is wrong and very misleading and 
one I strongly objected to. A "Cuckoo" Bantam may have 
feathered legs, yellow legs, a rose comb or a crest, and to 
be a really proper cuckoo color the head, neck and back 



should be a leaden-grey, not barred, tail feathers slaty- 
black with white ends, legs and feet yellow, they would 
then be rightly named, and more like their namesake, the 
common cuckoo (cuculus canorus). They can also be the 
shape of any variety of poultry. What I have always tried 
to breed, and will continue to do, and what I want others to 
breed, is a typical miniature Scotch Grey and not a non- 
descript of any color and shape. I am not a Scotchman, so 
that has nothing to do with it. 

The Scotch Grey Club used to include Scotch Grey Ban- 
tams, but I am sorry to say they have ceased to do any- 
thing for the Bantams, so we must make a start for our- 
selves. 1 am endeavoring to get two challenge cups, one 
for Scotch Grey Bantam cockerels and one for pullets, and 
shall be pleased to hear from those fanciers interested in 
Scotch Grey Bantams who will assist me in helping on this 
pretty and interesting variety. — F. J. S. Chatterton. in Poul- 
try. ______ 

POLISH BANTAMS. 

These minia'ure Polish are cf the same form, colors and 
markings as their larger relatives of the same name. Both 
American and English fanciers have worked to produce 
these little beauties. The lack of general Interest in them 
proves a barrier to their progress, and it may be their 
extermination. They are a most beautiful little fowl, and 
a Polish Bantam craze that would result in a club that would 
push these little beauties to the front might soon result in a 
special Polish Bantam show that would rival the New York 
cat show or the Boston exclusive pigeon show. 

These Bantams have been bred in the following cotors: 
Black, white, buff, silver, gold, cuckoo, blue, and white 
crested blai'k. They are simply Polish Bantams with all 
the Polish markings, etc., that belong to the Polish family. 
They were produced by crossing Golden Polish and Golden 
Sebright Bantams for the golden color. For the silver color. 
Silver Polish and Silver Sebrights were used. For Black 
and White Polish, Black and White Rose Comb Bantams 
were used. These crosses produced solid Blacks and Whites, 
and White Crested Blacks; also white crested blue or slate 
colored and solid colored blues. The pure Whites were 
among the first to attract attention both here and in Eng- 
land. Up to the present time they are the most perfect of all 
Polish Bantams. Of them we shall make particular men- 
tion. 

White Crested White and Buff Laced Polish Bantams 
only are allowed by our Standard; no other Polish Ban'aai 
is considered. Of these, two kinds or forms of comb are 
alloi\'ed — the single and V-shaped. Since .January. 1902, all 
must have V combs and blue shanks. Birds of the single 
comb variety have silvery white colored legs and no beard, 
while those that have the V-shaped combs have blue or sla e 
colored legs, and a beard or muff under the throat, extend- 
ing back to the crest on either side. The beak of each con- 
forms in color with the legs, either silver or blue, as may 
be. The blue colored legs, V-shaped combs, and beards, 
we believe, were produced both in this country and England 
at about the same time. The others show signs of an un- 
natural ero3s. Demanding, as we do, V or leaf combs and 
blue legs for Standard White Polish, why should we admit 
both in the Bantams? Then, as to weight, there is only two 
ounces difference in these Polish Bantams and a Buff 
Cochin Bantam. These points show a very unnatural Stan- 
dard's demands. The English demand seventeen to twenty- 
two ounces for males and fourteen to eighteen ounces f-r 
feniales in all Polish Bantams. Why should our Standard 
permit such heavy weights for them? 

The White Polish Bantams should be pure white and as 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



53 



small as possible. Our preference is for the V or leaf comb. 
Having, as they do, the muff or beard, and being naturally 
the better formed Bantam, they should have the preference. 
To breed these successfully, select a male perfect in form, 
crest and beard; he should also have a large, well propor- 
tioned tail for his size. Legs should be of blue color and 
very smooth. His beak should also be blue and crest should 
be Large and perfect in form. He should be mated to a 
small female as perfect in all these points as possible. A 
hen should be preferred rather than a pullet for producing 
strong chicks. It is always best to select as breeding s.ock 
birds that have the largest knobs for the crest to grow upon. 
Always select a crest that is well filled in front and as 
round as possible. 

The -other variety is or should be the same, only the 
single comb as small as possible. They have silver colored 
legs and beaks, in other points the same, only no beard. 

In all o her varieties of Polish Bantams the Standard 
for the larger varieties should guide, excepting the siz°. 
This in all Polish Bantams should be quite small. Do not 
try to produce these beautiful fowls and call them Bantams 
when half the size of the larger Polish. Their beauty de- 
pends on their miniature size. 

Since writing the above Mr. P. B. Zimmer, of Glovers- 
ville, N. Y., has shown me his flock of Bearded White 
Crested White Polish, and produced evidence to show me 
that he was not only the first to produce this variety, but 
the only one thus far to produce them of proper size and 
shape with all the other features of this variety in so 
marked a degree as to assure reproduction of their high 
quall'ties. His strain of Bearded White Polish is, beyond 
all dispute, the best in all the world. 

A new variety of Polish Bantams is just now before rs 
—the Buff IjHceA Polish Bantams. To be of correct type 
they must resemble the larger Polish of the same variety 
in all featuies and conform in size to other Polish Ban- 
tams. 

THE SfLTAN OR BOOTED WHITE POLISH. 

The Sultan or Booted White Polish we mentioned with 
the Booted Bantams. Nothing could be more beautiful than 
nice, well kppt Sultans. They would help to swell the num- 
bers for a Polish Bantam club. 

A BREEDER ON POLISH BANT.^MS. 

New York, March 13, 1898. 
Mr. T. F. McGrew: 

Sixteen to seventeen years ago I started in the pla n 
Polish Baniams and thirteen or fourteen years ago I brought 
out the entire original stock. They originated in Massachu- 
setts, near Agawam, as much by accident as any way. At 
about that time (thirteen or fourteen years) there was as 
good as none outside of my flock. The Standard just let 
them in and, as you know, called for single comb and white 
legs. (I do not know who made this Standard.) Many of 
the chicks had blue legs and I was not as particular then 
as I am now and sold lots of these disqualified birds after 
telling customers, but they were crazy after them, so they 
went. Being interested personally, I have kept my eyes open 
for Polish Bantams, and 1 never saw an English bird that 
was white, nor heard of one, with V comb and blue legs in 
America. And after 1 wrote our bearded Standard as it 
now reads, 1 never heard of any English being imported 
and am certain all those that are being shown in America 
now are from my stock, that I bred from big Bearded Eng- 
lish Polish and my non-bearded birds. I will not assert 
that England never had a bird to conform to our Standard 
of Bearded Bantams. f. b. zimmer 



SILKY BANTAMS. 
The Silky Bantams are very scarce, and are known of 
the following varieties: Whites, Yellow or Golden, Browns 
or Blacks. Some of these have single combs, others the 
walnut comb. Thay are quite small, rather hairy, and said 
to be good sitters and mothers. Their native land was 
Eastern Asia, about Malacca. Early writers call them the 
woolly hen. Their feathers being almost entirely fluff glv3 
them the woolly appearance. Their skin and bones are cf 
a purple or blue color. This makes a distasteful looking 
dish for the table, for when cooked they have a dark, unin- 
viting appearance. In the early days of the Cochin some of 
them were called Silky Cochins, their plumage being fluffy 
to the very end of the feathers, showing the influence of 
home cultivation of the fancy in the Orient. Thus writes 
an early fancier of these fowls: "Silkies may be classed as 
purely fancy, having only their own peculiarities to recom- 
mend them. In place of feathers they have silky hair; the 
skin and legs are blue; face and comb deep purple; ear- 
lobes tinged with white. The best of them have five toej 
and pure white plumage." 



NEW BANTAMS. 

The desire to produce new breeds is almost a craze with 
us. Not content with improving those we have, our atten- 
tion is attracted toward new things. The new rule adopted 
by the American Poultry Association will close the door, 
for some time at least, against imitation breeds or varieties, 
as may be. 

As a matter of record. I will mention a number of styles 
and kinds of Bantams that have come and gone, many of 
them with merely passing notice. The most attractive of 
these are the Penciled and Spangled Hamburg Bantams. 
They can be produced by crossing Hamburgs and Sebrights 
together, and reduced by inbreeding and selertion. The 
Silver Penciled of these varieties is the most attractive, and 
we have seen some fairly good ones for the first cross. 

Minorca, Andalusian, and Leghorn Bantams of fair.y 
good form can be produced by proper crosses and inbreed- 
ing. We have seen Andalusian Bantams of fairly good color 
and comb, fashioned after the old style of Game Bantams. 
Brown Leghorn Bantams can be produced by crossing a 
small Brown Leghorn male with an old style Black Red 
Game Bantam hen. Inbreed and select the most perfect 
specimens of small size and breed from them late chicks. 
White Leghorns can be produced in the same manner, using 
small White Games for the cross. 

Bantams called Centurions, buff in color, resembling 
White Wonders, are bred by crossing Golden Sebrights, Jap- 
anese and Buff Cochin Bantams with Buff Wyandottes. In 
our opinion the same or better results might be obtained 
by crossing the Golden Sebright on the Buff Cochin Ban- 
tam. This would give the buff color, the feathered legs and 
rose coml) in much shorter time than the other numerous 
ci'osses. Buff Plymouth Rock and Buffi Wyandotte Bantams 
are produced by similar crosses. In fact, almost every 
known fowl has to-day its counterpart in miniature form 
of more or less merit. This may do very well as a pastime, to 
please the fancy of those who produce them, but to have 
any real value they must possess the characteristics of the 
breed they imitate and reproduce of their kind moderately 
perfect specimens. 

BLACK SPANISH BANTAMS. 
Our attention has been called to the fact that they now 
have iu England a most perfect little Black Spanish Ban- 
tam, about the size of the Rose Comb Bantam. It is claimed 



54 



THE BANTAM I^OWt. 



that they are perfect little beauties, with all the features 
well developed. 

Houdan Bantams, Dorking Bantams and Creve Coeur 
Bantams have made their appearance in England, in a small 
way, in the last ten years. All of them are splendid models 
of the larger fowls they miniature. None of these have as 
yet made any prominence for themselves. So far they are 
only a matter of record. The most prominent new variety 
of Bantams is the Langshan now being pushed for honors 
by their originator, Mr. Hughes, whose description of them 
is given below. 

In general appearance they are just like the Black 
liangshans; in fact, a perfect counterpart of them in minia- 
ture form. They also have their egg producing trait. They 
were produced by breeding in direct line from Black Lang- 
shans by proper selecting and mating and now breed true to 
size and form; in fact, they breed so true that a large per 
cent of them are quite good enough for either exhibition or 
breeding. 

Now a few words regarding how I came to breed them. 
In the fall of 1S92 a Black Langshan hen stole her nest and 
hatched a brood of chicks ic November. The flock which 
had this h»n a.: a member was running at large in an old 
orchard and I did not see either the hen or chicks until 
snow came and I looked to see if all the stock was roosting 
in the house; then I found the chicks. Well, my first thought 
on seeing them was, "How much they look like Bantams!" 
These chicks, five of them, survived the winter, and the 
thought that they looked like Bantams was father to the 
resolve to try to breed from them Black Langshan Bantams. 
The chicks were dwarfed in size and to-day two of the hens 
that were the foundation of the O. K. strain of Black Lang- 
shan Bantams are alive and only weigh three pounds each. 

As to how I succeeded in my resolve to breed and estab- 
lish a strain of Black Langshan Bantams I refer the reader 
and others interested to my past exhibits of them. 

WIi:,I,IAM H. HUGHES. 



BARRED ROCK BANTAMS. 

A Talc of Their Importation and Inii)ro\'ement. 

liV C. H. LATHAM. 

Written for the Reliable Poultry Journal. 
(For Illustration See Frontispiece ) 

During the summer of 1900 there appeared in the Amer- 
ican Fancier a short article relating to some Barred Ply- 
mouth Rock Bantams that a fancier in England had orig- 
inated. Having had for a long time a desire to have Barred 
Rock Bantams, as well as having Rocks of Standard size, 
I at once wrote a letter to the originator, asking for infor- 
mation, sample feathers, etc. Being favorably impressed 
with my answer and the feathers sent, I placed the matter 
with a friend who was about to pay a visit to England. 
Late in September my fii-st importation of Bantams arrived, 
a cockerel and three pullets, as far as I know the first 



Barred Plymouth Rock Bantams in America. These birds 
were shown at the Boston show the following winter. In 
the spring of 1901 I imported two more males and three 
females. All the birds were very small, the first four birds 
weighing only five pounds when they arrived, and they were 
in fine condition. 

I now had a good foundation to build up a flock of real 
B. P Rock Bantams. They had a good deal of barring, but 
with color only fair, a long way from one of our fine exhi- 
bition Barred Rocks. Fortune favored me with a very small 
stunted Barred Rock cockerel, a present from a friend who 
was breeding Barred Rocks. This bird at six months of age 
weighed only three pounds. Mating him with two of the 
females, I succeeded in getting a number of birds of greatly 
improved color and barring and much stronger Rock char- 
acteristics. A pen of the best of this cross was shown at 
the Boston show in 1902. The season before I carried my 
hatching info September. The little fellows grow and ma- 
ture so quickly that they can all be hatched and raised after 
the crop of larger chicks are well along towards maturity. 
Among the last chicks hatched in September, 1901, was a 
cockerel bred from the imported birds pure. He was very 
small, hardy and full of vigor. In the spring of 1902 he was 
mated to the best of the females bred from the stunted 
Barred Rock cockerel the season before. The progeny of 
this mating showed still greater progress, approaching very 
near to our best show color in the females, very nice Rock 
shape and nearly down to original size of the imported 
Bantams. 

I made an exhibit of these birds at Madison Square 
Garden, New York, the past winter, among them being the 
bird photographed and shown in frontispiece. Bantam 
fanciers have taken a good deal of interest in them, and I 
have made several nice sales of stock and a good number 
of sales of eggs since placing them on sale. I am promised 
competition the next time I show at Madison Square Garden, 
and the day is not far distant when there will be warm 
times in Barred Plymouth Rock Bantam alley. Having 
passed through so many hot contests with my Barred Rocks, 
I can but anticipate with keen enjoyment the battles to come 
with the little fellows. 

I find the Bantams very hardy, easy to raise and they 
grow very quickly. They will pick up the most of their food 
if running at large. Late summer and fall is the time to 
raise them. At this writing (May 29th) I have not hatched 
any Bantams. Late June, July and August give me the best 
birds, and they can be hatched and raised as late as Sep- 
tember if a warm place can be had to winter the chicks. 
After the chicks are weaned from the hen, if they can have 
free range they will need but one small feed a day, wheat 
or other small grain. They stand confinement splendidly 
and can be kept in very small quarters, and if properly cared 
for will lay eggs the year round. For a Bantam they are a 
very practical bird, make very interesting pets, and I be- 
lieves are destined to become one of the most popular varie- 
ties of Bantams. c. h. latham. 



EXHIBITING AND JUDGING BANTAMS. 




HE proper time to begin preparing a bird for 
exhibition is when selecting the parent bird 
for the breeding pen. Perfect health and con- 
dition are quite as necessary in the parent 
bird as in the offspring; the former will not 
produce healthy stock if in poor condition; 
unhealthy birds will not make exhibition 
birds of true value, for such birds will not stand the prepa- 
ration necessary to condition them for competition, and 
without such condition the chances of winning are very 
poor. 

After twenty-five years of experience in poultry exhibi- 
tions all over the country I am fully prepared to say that 
the successful exhibitor of fancy fowls is always either an 
expert at conditioning birds or a successful purchaser from 
those who \mderstand the art. Never in all my experience 
have I seen a poorly conditioned bird win in strong com- 
petition. When this is considered in its true light we fully 
appreciate the necessity of having exhibition stock in the 
highest show condition. This includes perfect health, per- 
fect plumage, high condition of flesh (not overly fat) and 
perfect cleanliness from tip of comb to end of toes. Not 
one single section can be overlooked or neglected in its 
preparation if success is to be assured. 

To properly rear a bird for exhibition it must be well 
looked after from the day it is hatched. It will not answer 
to allow them to grow up as they may and then select the 
best for exhibition; they must be properly fed, watered, 
housed, and kept clean and free from all insects and dis- 
eases. In Bantams they must be fed quite enough to keep 
them growing properly, but not overfed so as to force them 
to oversize. Good health and condition must be maintained. 
And, above all, never allow your birds to run about in the 
wet after cool weather begins in the fall. If perfectly dry 
the cold will not injure them. 

When fully matured, handle Bantams in preparation for 
exhibition as follows; All smooth legged varieties should 
be kept busy hunting in hay or straw for all they get to eat. 
The litter must be kept clean and dry. This continued dig- 
ging gives a fine polish to feet, legs and plumage of the 
birds; hardens their flesh and keeps them under Standard 
weight. The feather legged birds must be continually 
watched to prevent their scratching and destroying the 
feathers on their feet. Small coops must be provided for 
them, the floors of the same covered with clean, dry pine 
sawdust. All food should be given in dishes; great care 
should be taken not to drop any of the food on the floor of 
the coop, for this will induce them to scratch and break 
their foot feathering. The sawdust must be put through a 
coarse sieve each day to free it from all dirt and droppings, 
for thus only can perfect cleanliness be observed. 

All smooth legged, close feathered varieties should have 
their plumage polished at least once a day with a cotton 
flannel cloth or a silk handkerchief. This will keep them 
perfectly clean and free from any bad condition of plumage, 
and add luster and finish to same. Never use oil of any kind 
upon the feathers, for while It looks well for a few days, it 
soon gathers dust and dirt, thus destroying the rich ap- 
pearance of surface plumage. 

By keeping the legs of your fowls perfectly clean and 



nicely polished with a woolen cloth or chamois skin, no 
roughness or bad color will appear; when neglected it takes 
so much hard rubbing to make them presentable, that they 
often have the appearance of having been scaled to the 
quick. When this is carried to excess and the spurs shelled 
it gives the legs the appearance of raw meat. This should 
count against the specimen in the show pen. 

The proper training for the show pen is of great impor- 
tance. No good excuse can be offered for placing a wild, 
untrained specimen in the show room. It is quite impossib'e 
to properly consider the good or bad points of such appli- 
cants for honors; but few of them can be considered as a 
fad or in a closely contested class. All birds intended for 
show purposes should be trained to stand in the most attrac- 
tive positions, and be taught to allow any one at all tim?s 
and in all places to handle them and remove them from their 
coops. When thus taught to put their best front forward, 
if of good quality and condition, all is done that can be done. 
Such a specimen has considerable in its favor as against 
one thait has no training for the show pen. 

Almost every one who has found it necessary to wash his 
fowls for exhibition follows methods and ways of his own. 
Some use hot suds and a sponge; others, alcohol to clean the 
spots from the plumage, and others brush the outside or 
surface plumage with hot suds and a stiff brush. All these 
methods are good, if they succeed. 

My plan is as follows: Fill a tub (or bucket of the 
proper size to meet the demands for room according to the 
size of the bird to be washed) wiih warm water. First 
wash head, comb, face and wattles with a small hand 
brurjh; use o very little soap for same. Nex't scrub feet and 
legs very clean with same brush. If the fowl has feathers 
on legs and feet, wash quite clean with plenty of soap. When 
these parts are perfectly clean put the whole body of the 
fowl into the water and thoroughly soften the feathers. As 
soon as the feathers are well soaked with the water rub 
them through and through with plenty of soap; use your 
hands and fingers for this. Work the soap well into the 



TRAINING 

FOR 

EXHIBITION. 




56 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



skin; wash them as if you wished to get every spot of dirt 
off the sliin. When satisfied that the under plumage and sl^in 
have been well cleaned by thoroughly washing every spot 
with your fingers, then wash the surface plumage with your 
hands and plenty of soap. When satisfied that all has been 
well washed dip the whole bird under water and with your 
bauds wash the feathers thoroughly and tree them as much 
as possible from the soap. Then thoroughly rinse in a tub 
or bucket of clean, warm water. When the feathers are per- 
fectly free from all soap and dirt, then plunge the whole bird 
into clean, cold water. When removed from this dry the 
feathers as much as possible with cloths or towels. Always 
rub the proper way of the feathers. When as much water 
as possible is worked from the feathers in this way, take the 
fowl by the legs, allow iis head to hang down and swing 
gently so the wings will fiap and plumage be loosened. 

The most important part of the operation is the proper 
drying of the plumage. The best way to dry the plumage is 
to place the bird in a very hot room; a room that is heated 
with steam is the best. If the hot room is not convenient 
place the bird in a coop close to a warm stove or open fire. 
Great care must be used not to allow the face or comb to 
blister before the hot fire. To properly dry the plumage the 
fowl must be kept in a very warm place till perfe.^'tly dry. 
The feathers must be all quite dry through and through, or 
they will stick together and look very bad. If dried quickly 
in a very warm room the feathers will web out nicely and 
look beautiful and fresh. If poorly done they will look 
worse than before. It is better to make the first attempt at 
washing a fowl with one of little value. Do not experiment 
with one of your best fowls. Learn the lesson first and then 
work with the exhibition stock. Always put some blue in 
the rinse water for white fowls, about as you would for 
white clothes. 

When preparing birds for exhibition remember that fine 
condition goes far towards their winning, and nothing helps 
more than perfectly clean plumage, legs and feet; so in pre- 
paring them use great care in washing any part that may 
need cleansing, or, if necessary, the whole bird. 

Ill Judging Bantams, Type and Breed Characteristics Should Have 
Preference Over Color. 

By far more quality should be demanded in Bantams 
than seems to be the general rule throughout the country. 
Leniency seems to be the ruling passion in placing the 




awards in many sections of the country. Poor birds are 
allowed to win oftentimes when it would be far better to 
have passed the specimens by without notice. Whenever a 
prize is wrongly placed it tends to mislead all who may see 
the specimen, and in this way injures the breed or variety. 
A Bantam to win in Dakota should have equal quality with 
those that win the same honor in Boston or New York. 
Quality should be the same the world over, and should be 
demanded by the judge at all times. No matter what the 
breed may be, the rule for judging is just the same. If ^v^e. 
take the Cochin Bantam, for example, our rule should be, 
first of all, shape, which must be true to the Cochin breed. 
A thin, narrow, long legged specimen is not Cochin in shape, 
and could not be regarded as a good Cochin Bantam. It must 
have the Cochin type or it is not a Cochin Bantam. • The 
same is true of the Game, Rose Comb, or Sebright Bantam. 
They must have the breed characteristics or they are not 
of that breed. It is true that we cut for shape; but how 
much will you discount a Cochin Bantam that is not Cochin 
shape? It is not possible that it should win a prize of any 
kind if it is properly judged. 

When you see a short, low set Game Bantam win a 
prize, it is entirely wrong and out of place. A Bantam that 
is shaped like a Homer Pigeon is not a true Game Bantam; 
and no matter if it is as beatuiful in color as it is poss.ble 
for it to be, it is not a Game Bantam, and should not have 
any notice in the list of awards. Shape, above all things, 
should take the lea.^ in Bantams; and whenever they lack 
this they should not be classed with exhibition specimens. 
A fowl that has the size and shape of a Cochin Bantam is 
not a true Brahma Bantam, although it may have all the 
colors and markings of a Light Brahma. It should have 
both the shape and the colors of the Light Brahma as well 
as Bantam size. 

In the selection of all Bantams, always remember that 
"shape makes the breed, while color is the variety distinc- 
tion." Both must be of the highest character to have the 
required quality for a first-class exhibition Bantam. If we 
could come within this rule with all breeds and varieties, 
whether large or small, we should have much better quality 
all along the line. Do not imagine that good shape and 
poor color will do, for it will not. Shape, color and size 
must all be positively correct as per the wording of the 
Standard to have a Bantam of any breed or variety come 
within the scope of a high class exhibi'Uon specimen. 






DISEASES OF BANTAMS— THEIR REMEDIES. 



Colds — Roup — Canker — Crop-bound — Cholera — Diarrhoea — Leg Weakness— Scaly Legs— Lice— Gapes- 
Pip — Chickenpox— Going Light. 




^__^ ANTAMS when young have many dangers con- 
r ^^ fronting them. Being so small, of necessity they 
are tender and delicate. Sudden changes of the 
weather during the night will often cause them 
to droop and look out of good condition, but 
with care they will prosper as well as their 
larger relations. To prevent disease be positively 
certain that the parent birds have no taint of any kind 
about them. Positive absence of all disease in the breeding 
stock is first to be considered. When the eggs are set under 
the hen, she and the nest must both be perfectly free from 
dirt or lice, and the hen must be in perfect he.alth. To 
make douhly sure, dust the hen well with insect powder 
(Persian is the best) before placing her on the eggs, and 
again one week before due to hatch. This should destroy all 
insect life; but do not trust it. In addition give the hen a 
good dust bath for her use during incubating; and when 
the chicks are hatched look sharp for their first enemy, the 
head louse, usually to be found, if present, on top of the 
head. They may locate on the neck. If none are present 
you may conclude the chick is safe for a week from them. 
When any are found, paint well the head and neck with 
melted lard, a little warm -not hot. Use small, stiff, flat 
brush, and be sure the head and neck are oiled well to the 
skiu. This will destroy all that may be present; but keep 
a close watch against their return. 

More young Bantams die from diarrhoea than from all 
other causes. People usually concede that the food they eat 
is the cause of the disease; they change the diet, and then 
wonder what makes the trouble. Nine times out of ten it 
is caused by taking cold in some way; bad or sour food will 
cause it; want of grit or too much water after a long thirst 
will produce the same result. The best remedy is to give 
them special care so that none of the above causes will exi.st. 
Should the chicks be so affected, clear all obstruction from 
the vent by removing the soiled down with a pair of scissors, 
using great care not to cut the skin. Anoint with fresh olive 
oil and feed dry cooked food. Always provide plenty of 
good, sharp sand, or very small grit for them. 

The next trouble for the little Bantam is cold. Uniil 
fully feathered they are very susceptible to changes in the 
weather. Cold, damp days and nights often work havoc 
among them. The only sure preventive for this is to house 
them in a well-constructed coop, having a covered run, 
where they can enjoy partial freedom during bad weather. 
When affected feed warm, rich food, keep them dry, and t:e 
a lump of camphor and a small stone in a piece of white 
muslin and drop this into their drinking water. The stone 
is for a sinker; camphor is good for cold in all CEises. If 
Bantams are kept free from lice, cold and dampness, and 
properly fed and watered, they will be free from every 
disease. 

ROUP. 
This name is applied to all stages of the ailment, from a 
slight cold to the most disgusting diphtheritic condition. 
Some time since a statement appeared in one of our journals, 



saying that young chicks never have the roup. The author 
has discovered that the above is incorrect. Being asked to 
look at a brood of chicks that were hatched where no other 
chickens had been for several years, ho found them lo bP 
about thre? weeks old and affected with roup and canker of 
the very worst kind — eyes swollen and an offensive di.-jcharge 
from the nostrils. This proves that it can come at any time. 
No doubt such cases start from diseased parent birds. 

How to cure ro\ip is a question hard to settle. If in the 
stage of a slight cold, clean the mouth, throat, nostrils and 
head with warm water and soap, rinse well with warm water 
and vinegar, half of each. Take a small syringe and force 
some of this warm mixture through both nostrils till well 
cleaned. Follow this with an injection of olive oil. Place 
the bird in warm, dry (luarters and feed soft food. If this 
does not improve the patient and it grows worse you will 
save time by destroying the specimen and burning the 
carcass. 

Another treatment is to cleanse them as above and give 
aconite or arsenicum. Others say spongia in their drinking 
watfr is a good remedy. All these methods will help some 
of those afflicted with the disease; but when the case is so 
bad that they grow worse each day \inilcr such care, it is 
better to kill them. 

I have seen specimens cured by dipping the head In a can 
of oil (kerosene). This will also remove all the fea heis 
from the head, but they come again. So many call a simple 
cold the roup. I'sually when cured by any reasonable means 
it is a simp!'? cold, but real roup in a fowl is as bad as diph- 
theria in a 'hild and as hard to cure. 

The following on disease is printed by permission of L)r. 
Wm. Y. Fox, of Taunton, Mass.: 

COLD. 

A common cold is probably the most prevalent disease 
the human family is subject to, and the same is true of Ban- 
tams. The first symptom is sneezing, then a discharge of 
clear, watery fluid from the nostrils and eyes; later, a slight 
lo.ss of appetite and general dumpishne^ss. 

In itself a cold is of little consequence, but, as it is ofttn 
the forerunner of roup, it must not be neglerted. Cold is 
generally caused by drafts blowing across the roosts at night, 
or by filthy quarters. It may also be caused by dampness in 
the house or runs, or too much exposure to bad weal her. 
Bantams can be allowed in their yards in very cold weather 
if the ground is free from snow and mud, but they are much 
better off in the house if there is mud or snow on the ground, 
or if it is stormy. In this respect they certainly require more 
care than the large varieties. The prevention of colds lies 
in keeping the flock in clean, tight, dry quarters. 

The treatment is very simple. If only one or two are 
affected remove them from the rest and place in a coop 
where they will be warm and free from drafts. Get some 
camphorated oil, at any drug store, and with a small gla.sa 
syringe inject it into the nostrils twice a day. This will 
generally effect a cure within a few days. If many of the 
flock are afflicted in this way it will be imprarticable to 



6d 



tnn fiANTAM i^owt. 



treat separately, and the first thing to do Is to find and 
remove the cause of the illness. Having done this, keep a 
small piece of gum camphor in the drinking water and watch 
carefully for further symptoms. Do not allow the nostrils 
to become plugged by a crust, as they often will, because the 
discharge will be held back and act as a poison. 

After the nostrils have been obstructed a day or two the 
head will begin to swell and before we know it we have a 
case of roup to deal with. The injection of camphorated oil 
as already directed will usually keep the nostrils free and 
open. 

ROUP. 
This is a contagious disease, and generally begins as a 
simple cold. It is often fatal, and is much to be dreaded as 
it will sometimes go through the whole flock before the 
owner is aware that there is any serious trouble. It is diffi- 
cult to say just when a cold turns into roup, but when the 
discharge from the nostrils and eyes becomes thick and 
sticky, and of an offensive odor, you may be sure that you 
have a case or roup. The next symptom is swelling of the 
head and eyes; frequently the eyelids will sitick together, 
and if washed apart a large amount of fetid matter will 
escape. As these symptoms increase the bird is growing 
sicker all (he time, more dumpish and has little or no 
appetite. 

Roup may be prevented by good care and prompt treat- 
ment of every cold, but above all by care in introducing new 
birds into the flock. Whenever you buy a new hen keep her 
in quarantine at least two weeks, until you are sure she is 
in perfect health, before exposing your stock to the danger 
of contagion. Bantams of a strong, vigorous constitution, 
properly housed and fed, will never have roup, unless they 
catch it from some diseased fowl carelessly introduced into 
their house. 

Probably the most common way for the disease to be 
transmitted from one to another, is through the drinking 
water. Be careful to thoroughly clean and scald any drink- 
ing vessel that has been used by any sick Bantam, before 
using it again. It is doubtful whether the disease can be 
carried in the air, but give the well birds the benefit of the 
doubt and confine diseased ones in separate houses or rooms. 
It is unwise to keep an invalid in a room with a fire, unless 
you are prepared to keep him there until warm weather, 
for it will never be safe to return the convalescent patient 
to the unhealed house after he has had the luxury of a fire. 

The treatment of roup is, in the main, very unsatisfac- 
tory, although, if begun soon enough it may save a valuable 
specimen. Keep the nostrils, eyes and throat as clean as 
possible. Get a bottle of listerine at any drug store, and 
put a tablespoonful into a glass of warm water. Inject into 
the nostrils, swab the throat and wash the head and eyes 
with it two or three times a day for the first four or five 
days. Feed with soft cooked food and milk. 

If this treatment makes no improvement in the patient, 
kill him and burn his carcass. This is the kindest and best 
advice that can be given, for, although he may recover 
after weeks of dosing and pampering, he will still be a weak 
bird and the slightest exposure will start a discharge from 
the nostrils, which may contain the germs of roup and be 
sufficient to cause the disease in the flock to which he 
belongs. 

A Bantam that has once had a genuine severe attack of 
roup is never fit to breed from, as his offspring will be 
sickly, puny chicks nine times out of ten. If you are un- 
willing to take this advice, as you probably will be until 
you have tried to cure roup yourself, the next best thing to 
do is to continue to keep the head and nostrils as clean as 



possible. Stop the aconite and give ohe grain of sulphate 
of quinine three times a day, and all the milk and whisky 
you can pour down, every three or four hours. By this time 
your pet will not eat and his strength must be kept up by 
forcing the whisky and milk. Should your efforts prove suc- 
cessful and the bird begins to mend, leave off the whisky 
and quinine very gradually and put enough tincture of chlo- 
ride of iron into the drinking water to give a decided brown 
color; feed good cooked food and a little meat once a day. 

CANKER OR DIPHTHERITIC ROUP. 

This is a frequent accompaniment of ordinary roup, and 
is probably a different manifestation of the same disease. 
It is highly contagious to other fowl and possibly to man. 
Cases are reported where children have probably contracted 
diphtheria from fowls sick with canker, and also where 
poultry that have access to discharges from diphtheria 
patients have sickness with canker. The one distinguishing 
symptom of canker is the appearance in the mouth or throat 
of a white or yellowish white cheesy membrane. This may 
appear during the course of ordinary roup, or may come on 
suddenly in an apparently healthy fowl. At the first onset 
one or more wliite spots, about the size of a pin head, may 
be seen either on the roof of the mouth or under the tongue, 
or, quite often around the opening to the windpipe. These 
spots grow very rapidly until, oftentimes, the whole mouth 
is filled with a membrane that is usually glistening white, 
sometimes yellowish. When torn off it leaves a bleeding 
surface beneath. It is of very offensive odor. If this mem- 
brane extends into the windpipe the patient will soon die of 
suffocation. This is a disease that cannot be mistaken, as 
the appearance of the membrane is very characteristic. 

The remarks on the cause and prevention of roup apply 
especially to canker and need not be repeated. The general 
treatment is also the same, but the local treatment is differ- 
ent. Instead of washing out nostrils and mouth attempts 
must be made to remove the membrane. This is often done 
by scraping with a piece of pine wood whittled to a con- 
venient shape. After removing all that can be removed, 
without excessive bleeding, the parts should be powdered 
over with alum. A better way is to apply peroxide of hydro- 
gen in full strength directly to the membrane, which will 
soon be eaten away with much less bleeding than in the 
other proceeding. After using the peroxide a few minutes, 
apply tincture of the chloride of iron in full strength. The 
mouth can be pretty well cleaned by either method, but the 
membrane soon returns and the process must be repea'ed 
often. When the membrane is in the windpipe It has to be 
left to nature, and almost always proves fatal. 

CHOLERA. 

At the present day this is an extremely rare disease in 
the United States. It is the most contagious of the diseases 
of poultry, generally killing the whole flock when it once gets 
a foothold. It is always caused by contact with a previous 
case, never originating in a yard without such contact or 
exposure. 

The symptoms are excessive diarrhoea, first of a black 
substance as thick as tar, later by a thin, watery fl\iid which 
smells putrid. There is very rapid emaciation and prostra- 
tion, death frequently occurring within thirty-six hours after 
the commencement of the disease. There is no treatment; 
kill and cremate. 

DIARRHOEA. 

This is quite frequent, and is sometimes mistaken for 
cholera, but cholera is so very rapid that this mistake ought 
not to be made. Diarrhoea is usually caused by improper 
food, impure water, by sudden changes in temperature or 
exposure to cold and wet. Individual mild cases require no 



fm feAN'TAM l^oWt. 



m 



treatment, as they will soon recover. In severe cases, re- 
move the patient to a coop, keep without food for twenty- 
four hours, keep lime water before it instead of clear water. 
After twenty-four hours give a little bread, soaked in boiled 
milk. Let this be the only food until diarrhoea ceases. When 
there are a number of cases in the flock, be sure there is 
something wrong in food or drink. Search carefully for this 
cause and remove it. 

CROP BOUND. 

This is quite common in Bantams, and if not properly 
treated is very apt to prove fatal. The first symptom is a 
constant effort to swallow. The neck is stretched out, the 
mouth opened, and the hen acts the way you often see a 
little chick act when trying to get down a worm one size 
larger than his gullet. 

The patient acts dumpish and stands in a peculiar posi- 
tion with the breastbone pitched forward and down. He is 
hungry and will keep eating until his crop is filled full and 
as hard as a stone. If you suspect that you have a case of 
crop bound place the subject where he cannot eat for twen- 
ty-four hours and then feel his crop; if it is hard, or harder 
than when he was shut up, your suspicions are confirmed. 

This trouble is caused by a plugging up of the outlet of 
the crop with some particle of food, such as a long, ribbon- 
like piece of hay or grass. It may be caused by overeating, 
as when fowls get access to the grain bin and then drink a 
lot of water. The cause in this case is, probably, not so 
much obstruction of the outlet as it is a paralysis of the 
muscles of the crop from overdistension. This is rather an 
unusual form of crop bound and is merely mentioned to 
point this moral; when you know your Bantams have enor- 
mously overeaten, deprive them of water until their crops 
are, at least, half empty. There is no way to prevent the 
other or obstructive form. 

The treatment is the same in either case; empty the 
crop. This can sometimes be done by pouring castor oil 
down the throat and working the mass in the crop around 
with the fingers. Try this about three times, two or three 
hours apart. If by that time the mass is not softened it is 
time to resort to surgery. Remove the feathers from a 
space the size of a silver dollar directly over the crop. With 
a clean, sharp knife make a cut one and one-half inches 
long through the skin; pull the wound along about half an 
inch and with a second cut go directly through into the 
crop. With a spoon handle scoop out the contents thor- 
oughly. Either see or feel the outlet of the crop, so as to 
remove any obstruction there may be there. Wash the in- 
side of the crop and the wound with warm water, to which 
a little salt has been added. With a needleful of white silk 
sew up the crop and then the skin. 

Give no food or drink for thirty-six hours; then give a 
little bread soaked in milk. Feed carefully for a week; by 
that time the little fellow will be all right, that is, supposing 
the relief to have been given soon enough. For, if the mass 
in the crop has fermented badly, as it will in three or four 
days, it will have excited so much inflammation that the 
operation does no good. Do not delay in a case of crop 
bound, as twenty-four hours frequently make the difference 
between saving and losing a valuable bird. 

LEG WEAKNESS. 

This is most common in growing chickens and is shown 
by inability to stand up. The chicken appears hungry, and 
all right in every way, except that it tries to get around on 
its hock joints instead of its feet. This occurs either while 
the first feathers or the second are growing. It is due to 
defective nutrition and is analogous to what we frequently 



term in children as growing too fast for their strength. The 
remedy is to change the diet, giving more meat and cut bone, 
something to make more muscle. Take care that the other 
chicks do not prevent the weak one from getting any food 
at all. With a little care these cases recover in a few days. 
In the full grown Bantam a similar condition is often 
seen, although not so often as in the heavy breeds, and is 
more apt to be due to rheumatism or cramp, the result of 
dampness or exposure. The remedy in these cases is to 
place the patient in a dry coop and feed well, at the same 
time rubbing the legs well with any good liniment. 

SCALY LEGS. 

This is a most disgusting affection and its presence in a 
flock is a sure sign of laziness or indifference on the part of 
the owner. It is caused by a parasite, and is, therefore, a 
contagious disease. When it first appears the shanks and 
toes become covered with a dry scaly substance which in- 
creases quite fast until it forms crusts so thick as to obscure 
entirely the original shape and color of the legs. It is most 
common among the feathered legged varieties, and spreads 
much faster in damp, filthy quarters than in clean, dry ones. 

The treatment is very simple, but is also very effective. 
Apply thoroughly, with the fingers, some carbolized vaseline 
to every part of the shanks and toes. Repeat every two 
days until the legs are clean. Bach time it is found that 
considerable scale may be rubbed off with the fingers, and 
it is advisable to remove all that will come off without caus- 
ing bleeding. In mild cases three applications is enough to 
effect a cure. In severe ones it may take six or seven, and, 
in such cases, it is well to repeat twice a month for three 
or four months after the case is apparently cured, as it 
otherwise is very liable to return. 

LICE 

If you have had no experience with poultry you will 
probably smile when you see lice classed among the diseases, 
but after one or two broods have succumbed to their ravages, 
and the grown fowls all look as if they were in the last 
stages of consumption, you will admit that the little vermin 
are worthy of the first place in the list of diseases. 

There are several varieties of lice which infest the hen 
house. There is the common white or gray louse, which is 
the largest and sticks to the fowl night and day. The same 
variety is found on young chicks and is commonly called 
the head louse because oftenest found on the head and fas- 
tened to the skin like a leach. Then there is the red louse, 
or red mite, which works only at night. During the day he 
will be found under or on the roosting pole, or on the sides 
of the house. He is bright red, round and rather smaller 
than the head of a pin. Frequently these mites will congre- 
gate on a part of the wall so thick that one would think the 
wall was covered with fresh blood. 

There is also a brown louse, larger than the red and not 
so large as the white. The habits of this are similar to both 
the others, that is to say, many will leave the fowl in the 
day time and be found in the house, but some of the more 
greedy will keep at work day and night. This is the kind 
that bothers the sitting hen the most Sometimes she is 
compelled to leave her eggs, and, in such instances, one 
looking into the nest will see no eggs there, as they will 
be completely covered with a mass of dirty brown lice. 

The symptoms produced by lice are unmistakable, where 
one has once become acquainted with them. In a fowl there 
is ruffled plumage, white comb, great uneasiness and emaci- 
ation. In chicks there is a weakness and drooping, some- 
times diarrhoea and a peculiar, characteristic look about the 
head, as if the beak had been pulled on and the head elon- 



60 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



gated. The proof that the symptoms are caused by lice is 
to see the enemy. 

In this connection a very good answer appeared in the 
notes and rjueries of a recent poultry paper. The (juestion 
was like this; "What is the matter with my chickens, they 
have such and such symptoms?" Answer, "Look for lice, 
and if you find them, remove by doing thus and so. If you 
do not find any, do just the same, for they are there, only 
yon do not know how to look for them." 

In looking for lice on fowl, look close to the skin around 
the vent and under wings; on chicks, examine head and 
under wings; in the house, look on underside of roost and 
into ail the cracks and crevices 

The prevention and treatment are identical. Keep drop- 
ping-board clean in hot weather; sprinkle slaked lime over 
it occasionally. Have the roosts and dropping-board ar- 
ranged so that they can easily be removed. Take them out 
in the yard twice a month, in summer, and paint them all 
over with kerosene, at the same time paint walls and cracks 
near where roosts belong. That same night go into the 
house and sprinkle a little good insect powder over the 
back of each hen. Clean out the nest boxes and paint inside 
and out with kerosene. Refill with clean nesting material. 
Never set a hen without dusting both her and the nest thor- 
oughly with the same powder, and repeat at least three 
times while she is sitting. When the chicks hatch dust 
once a week, for the first two months of their lives. 

CAPES 

This is an affection seen only in young chicks from the 
third week to about the third month. It is, fortunately, not 
common in moderate climates, although said to be quite 
prevalent in the south. 

Gapes is caused by the presence in the windpipe of one 
or more thread-like worms. These little worms attach 
themselves to the lining membrane of the windpipe and 
cause it to swell so that it fills the whole caliber of the pipe 
and the chick dies from suffocation. The principal symptom 
is gaping. The chick stretches his neck and opens his 
mouth to its fullest extent. He does this repeatedly and 
soon refuses to cat, becomes dumpish, and, if not relieved, 
dies. The only preventive is absolute cleanliness about the 
coops and yards. 

The treatment of gapes is not very satisfactory. It con- 
sists in removing the worms from the windpipe. This can 
be accomplished by means of an instrument known as the 
gape worm extractor. The operation requires some skill 
and more patience. When a large number have to be 
treated the treatment is wholesale, so to speak, and the 
usual method is to smoke the worms out. The chicks are 
shut in a tight box, which is then filled with the fumes cf 
burning sulphur or carbolic acid, or with finely powdered 
slacked lime. The trouble with this method is that t^e 
worms will stand about as much as the chicks will, and you 
will be very lucky if you can stop at just the right moment, 
that is, when the worms are killed and before the chicks 
are. Chickens that have had gapes are feeble and deb 11- 
tated for a long time, and perhaps you will be more lucky, 
on the whole, if your smoke kills both chicks and worms. 

Better direct your energies to stopping the spread of 
gapes than to doctoring those already affected. Take all 
the sick and place thom in a clean, dry coop, with 
sand and air slaked lime on the fioor. Take the 
rest of the brood and all the chicks that have had access to 
the same yard, put them into quarters by themselves ard 
watch very sharply, so as to remove each one to the hos- 
pital coop as soon as it shows a symptom. Be sure that any 
chicks that have not been exposed to danger are kept away 
from the infected yard, from the quarantined chicks, and, of 



course, from the sick ones, until the disease is thoroughly 
stamped out. 

The infected coops and yards must be disinfected. A 
good way to do this is as follows: Burn all old coops that 
arc not of much value; mix a hogshead of corrosive subli- 
mate of strength 1 to 2,000; heat to boiling point enough of 
this solution to saturate every part of the coops. Sprinkle 
the rest of the solution over the ground. When the coojs 
are dry give a good coat of whitewash. Sprinkle air-slacked 
lime over the ground until no earth can be seen. Leave 
alone for two weeks and then spade and sow down to grass. 
Put no chicks into this yard for two years. Fowl may be 
kept in it after the grass is grown, if necessary, but no 
chicks. 

PIP 

This is a disease of young chickens and is practically a 
cold. It occurs ofteuest in chicks whose parents have h; d 
roup, or have been inbred too much. It is sometimes caused 
by damp and filthy coops. 

Treatment: Give dry, clean quarters, and wash mouth 
and nostrils with a weak solution of chlorate of potash. 

CHICKEN-POX. 

This is a highly contagious disease which affects both 
old and young. It is rather rare. It is characterized by 
black, hard warts ur growths on the head and face. 

The only treatment is to quarantine and keep the war:s 
greased well with carbolized vaseline. Fowls will generally 
recover and be as good as ever, while chicks almost always 
succumb within a week or two after they are taken. 

GOING LIGHT 

This is not a very definite term, and the condition lo 
which it is applied is also called consumption, scrofula, con- 
gestion of the liver and inflammation. It occurs occasionally 
in flocks that have the best of care, so it seems there is no 
sure way to prevent it. 

It is undoubtedly a disease of digestive organs, possibly 
the liver. Autopsies often show a liver rather too large, 
but no other abnormal condition visible to the naked eye. 
The symptoms are great emaciation, extreme palor of face 
and comb, ruffling of feathers and general dumpishneas. 
During the first of it the appetite is fairly good, h\n later 
disappears entirely. 

When the disease attacks a chicken that Is getting its 
second feathers, as it often does, it is, as a rule, fatal. To be 
of any avail treatment must be begun very early. Give sul- 
phate of strychnine, one-two-hundredth grain, three times 
a day, and color the drinking water with tincture of chloride 
of iron. Feed meat, green food and some cooked food, as 
bread or mash. 

When the patient is a grown fowl the treatment is some- 
what different. Shut in a coop with clean sand on the floor, 
give calomel, one-tenth grain, every two hours for five times, 
and no food of any kind, but plenty of water. The next 
morning, after these five doses, the droppings should be 
found in the sand, abundant and rather loose; if they are 
not, give a level teaspoonful of Epsom salts. After the bird 
has been well physicked in this way begin to feed soft fotd 
rather sparingly until your patient seems really hungry. 
Give the strychnine and iron, as in the previous case. As 
soon as the appetite returns put her back in the run where 
she can get more exercise and variety of food. Watch her 
carefully and if she grows worse again repeat the former 
treatment of calomel. It is often necessary to do this three 
or four times before thorough recovery takes place. 

Now in conclusion, just a word. Remember that you 
will be well repaid for all the time and pains which you care 
to spend in giving your Bantams all proper care to keep 
them in good health 



HOUSING AND CARE. 



Suitable Bantam Houses— Foods and Feeding— Requirements in Breeding- 
Modern Methods— Nests and Hatching. 



-Care and Management- 




IIE proper liousing of Bantams is the first and 
most important point for considerajtion. Al- 
most any place will do for them, provided it 
is reasonably warm in cold weather, and free 
from dampness at all times. These little 
fowls have the constitution to stand very 
cold .weather, but dampness is their almost 
certain destroyer. From the time Bantams are hatched till 
the end of their nktural life they should be protected from 
wet and damp. If this is done and they are properly fed, 
they will enjoy perfect health and repay you for all the 
attention they have received. 

Young Bantams, when hatched, should be kept within 
doors on a dry board floor with the mother hen for about 
forty-eight hours, tlien removed into dry quarters outside 
and housed in a properly constructed coop with board floor 
that should be strewn with hay seed or chaff, or hay cut 
qtilte small. For my own use I have constructed a coop 
after the style of one made by Spratt's Patent. This is not 
all important, for any well constructed coop will do for their 
comfort, if warm p.nd dry. We advocate very strongly the 
use of coops with board floors; at the same time, many ad- 
vocate placing them in A coops right on the ground. Hav- 
ing used both, we cast our vote in favor of the coop with 
board floor well covered with dry litter, believing a greater 
number of just as healthy chicks will be raised in this way 
in all kind.s of weather, and in a wet season, like the sum- 
mers of 1S97 and 1902, the per cent, is largely in favor of the 
dry floors. 

For adult Bantams we also advocate houses with board 
floo!~s. and we prefer these houses to be set at least Un 
inches from the ground, and so constructed that no vermin 
of any kind can make their home beneath the house. The 
illustration of our favorite style of coop for adult Bantams 
(See Fig. 1) will indicate our notion as to same. We also 
copy one from SpraU's illustrations, having added some of 
our own ideas to it. From our illustrations many forms cf 
Bantam houses can be constructed; no matter how rude or 
how cheap in form, just so they are dry and furnish protec- 
tion from thr very cold weather. Do not think for a 
moi^ient that we would intimate that Bantams should hi 
keptfin warm or heated quarters during cold weather. They 
■are quite iiardy and withstand cold weather wonderfully 

well, but they 
should have com- 
fortable nouses to 
'•-thcive ■ "-'and do 
their best. 

For perches 
nothing is better 
than oval strips 
of wood, two and 
one-half to three 
inches wide- on 
the flat side. 
Some say smaller 




FIG. 1— I'OULTRV HOUSE WITH RC.N rNDERN'E\TH. 



perches are best. Try both and see which your 
fowls will prefer. Nest boxes and other furnishings cou can 
select, as best suit your fancy. We use small pine boxes 
and find them very handy for removing with a broody hen 
to some quiet corner where she can bring out her brood in 
comfort. 

Many of the finest exhibition Bantams of England are 
bred in very contracted quarters. We have seen a pen of five 
Bantams housed and yarded in a space less than seven feet 
square for a period of four months, and they produced a fine 
lot of healthy chicks, many of which found their way to the 
show pens and won their share of prizes. Quite a number 
of the New York prize winners are bred in very small city 
lot. where all green food and grit of all kinds must be fur- 
nished them. The secret of success in these cases is the care 
bestowed upon the fowls. The most perfect sanitary condi- 
tions must be observed, and cleanliness must be the absolute 
rule of the hour. To occasionally clean up will not do. If 
kept in these confined, small quarters, they must be kept as 
thoroughly clean as your own house, for in this way only 
can they be succpssfuly raised in confined quarters. 

We breed our finest specimens in a small back yard, and 
use for housing a small wooden packing box, as shown in 
Fig. 2. Their run is about eight feet square, and they are 
turned out on the grass plot each day for a run. The two 
hens in one of these runs laid over one hundred and fifty 
eggs in four months, producing a number of very fine chicks, 
all of which were kept till eight weeks old, in a small door 
yard. After this age we sent them to a farm to shift for 
themselves. 

Bantams should be sheltered from sun, wind, rain and 
snow by day, and from drafts by night. Shade of some kind 
should be provided for all Bantams intended for exhibition, 
for thei; plumage is soon injured by the hot rays of the sun. 
White turns yellow and black turns brown when exposed for 
days to the hot sunlight. We have seen the careful breeder 
spread sheets of canvas for shade when deprived of natural 
shade, for his fowls. These little pointers show what cave 
the expert bestows upon his prospective winners. 

When making vise of houses like Nos. 1 and 2, the open 
run beneath makes shelter from rain and sun during the 
summer months. When the cold davs of winter are near 
ait hand it is best 
to pack this open 
space full of 
leaves or straw and 
bank the earth 
about the outside 
to keep the cold 
from under the 
floor. Bantam 
bouses may be 
built the same as 
houses are built for 
other fowls. It is 
not necessary to fig. 2— .m.ade out ok a dry goods box. 




62 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 




FIG. 3 — POULTRY HOUSE WITH COVERED RUN. 



have them so large, but too much cannot be said in favor of 
dry quarters for Bantams. Many of the t:-oubles of poultry- 
men may be traced to damp quarters. Ventilation will do 
much to remedy this, but drainage must be good and the 
water must be directed away from the house. A little fore- 
thought in this particular will save much worry. We have 
had them sleep at night in a store box fixed for their conven- 

i e n c e in the 
corner of the 
woodshed. Have 
left a late brood 
out a.11 winter in 
an old style 
brooder for their 
home; all the in- 
s i d e save the 
floor was taken 
out of the brooder and the mother hen and the brood lived 
there all winter. The box was set against the south side of 
the fence near the kitchen door and the whole lot ran out 
every day. When the snow came it was swept away so the 
ground could dry in the sun. 

The only demand for Bantam houses is comfort for the 
little fowls and conveniences for those who care for them. 
They are not, as a usual thing, delicate or tender, they can 
live and do splendid in any quarters that are suitable for a 
Leghorn; they do not at any time need heated quarters; in 
fact they do better if not pampered and favored with 
too much care. Some of the finer bred Game and Rose Comb 
Bantams must have special care in very cold wealther, and, 
as before stated, all must be protected from the damp. 
Houses for Bantams must be built on a dry protected spot 
that has good drainage if success with them is hopeil for. 

FOOD AND FEKDING. 

Bantams must be well fed, properly fed and not overfed 
nor underfed. Do not starve your breeding stock, but keep 
them in good condition and feed them on the proper amount 
of egg-forming food. Always give them the best, for they 
eat so little that what they do eat should be fine in quality. 
If fed morning and evening during the breeding season it is 
quite enough, providing attention is paid to quality and the 
proper quantity. 

If confined in runs, plenty of green food and grit must 
be given them. When so confined, a meal at noon adds 
much to their comfort and condition. For green food, cut 
grass, clover, apples, beets, turnips, and the tops of almost 
any vegetable are good for them. This green food should 
be given at noon. 

The best grain for Bantams is wheat, rice, oatmeal and 
some broken corn. When young it is best to cook the food 
for them. Boiled rice, mixed with corn bread, wheat bread, 
or a mixture of ground oats, corn and middlings made into a 
cake and baked is very good. Feed the chicks quite often, 
on small amounts each time. In this way they will not be 
forced to overgrowth. After weaning time a small feed of 
wheat twice a day is quite enough for them if they have their 
liberty, where they can find seeds and bugs for themselves. 

.4.11 Bantams should have some kind of animal food. If 
confined feed them a limited amount of ground green bone 
with some meat in it, not too much and cut very fine. Cooked 
meat of all kinds is good for them and there is nothing bet- 
ter than cooked fish. There are quite a number of prepared 
animal foods, many of them good. The be^t of them are 
Crissel and I^iverine. A mixture of Liverine, oatmeal and 
middlings cooked or scalded and fed warm and crumbling 
is a good occasional food. Crissel is excellent for laying 
hens. It can be fed in the same manner and is a fine egg- 
producing food. Grit of some kind, ground shell, booe and 



charcoal should always be provided in liberal quantities. 
They are great promoters of good health. After the breed- 
ing season, cut down the food ration of your old birds, only 
feed them as you do the young, growing stock; but when 
the cooler weather comes treat them as you do yourself, to 
a little larger allowance. One of the most important factors 
of success is plenty of pure, fresh water. This should be 
kept in some good style of fountain, protected from the sun 
in hot weather. These fountains should be kept as clean as 
your own cups and saucers, and fresh water should be pro- 
vided at least once, and when very warm, not less than 
twice a day. The hen must quench her thrist and also con- 
sume enough water to furnish a large per cent of water in 
the eggs sho lays. The better the water supply and the food 
the better she lays. Here are a few hints on feeding young 
chicks: If you want bone, like in the Game Bantam, feed 
bone-forming food; if a short leg and plenty of feather, like 
the Cochin Banttims, feed rice and wheat. Always feed 
them the kind of food that has the tendency to advance the 
features most desired. 

SIZE AND WEIGHT. 

We advocate that all Bantams shall weigh about one- 
fifth as much as the standard fowls they miniature; if less, 
so much the better. The smaller the better, providing they 
possess all the variety characteristics. We have seen them 
too small for Bantams. This is quite as bad as too large. 
The happy medium of size combined with the perfect form 
is most to be desired. 

MATING. 

From three to five hens are quite enough for one male. 
Grade this according to his vigor and success in filling the 
eggs. Sebrights and Japanese do best in trios, and most of 
the other males do better with two or three females. Mate 
them early so they may become acquainted before the breed- 
ing season, otherwise their habit of quarreling when strange 
to one another may give you many infertile eggs. Do not 
hesitate to inbred good, healthy stock, but do not make it a 
rule to mate brother and sister together. This is the most 
unlikely mating one can have, father with daughter, or son 
with mother will bring improvement; also, cousins in line 
or to ancestors, but do not look for marked improvement 
from brother and sister, it does not work well that way. 

BEST TIME FOR HATCHING. 

Bantams should be about six months old for males, and 
a little less for females before they are fully ready to show 
under the most favorable circumstances. We have won in 




FIG. 4— HOUSE 24x36 INCHES. COVERED BUN FOR CHICKS; SEPARATE 

APARTMENT FOR HEN; DROP DOOR IN FRONT; 

APARTMENT FOR HEN 12x24, 

Strong competition with Bantam males five months old, but 
considered the specimen rather immature. By taking this 
as a guide you can hatch any time from April till August, 
and later if prepai'ed to care for late chicks. Late hatched 
Bantams do well if properly housed; if ncKt, they drop by 
the wayside and die. 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



63 



CARK AND MANAGEMENT OK BANTAMS. 

The following circular came to hand with no name 
signed to it, but we consider it worthy of a place in our 
book: 

"May and June are the best months to ha)tch Bantams. 
April, July and August are not bad, and September is all 
right if you have an extra nice place to keep the chicks in 
during winter. 

You can set the eggs under Bantams or large hens. A 




FIG. 5 — HOUSE WITH MOVAULK RUN AND DKOf LID. VENTILATOR ABOVE DROI'. 

large hen that will sit on her own eggs without breaking 
them can do the same with Bantam eggs, as they do not 
break any easier than ordinary eggs. The only objection to 
using large hens as mothers is that they are apt to kill a 
great many chicks by stepping on them. 

"In the care of the chicks the most important thing is to 
keep them absolutely free from I'.ce. Remember the lice on 
Bantams are the same size as those that infest ordinary 
chickens, therefore the Bantams will succumb sooner than 
the ordinary chicks. I use the utmost precaution against 
lice, but if I find a brood is not doing well I examine them 
carefully tor lice. If I find any I- dust them with insect pow- 
der; if I do not find any I dust them just the same. It takes 
sharp eyes to discover lice, but with experience you will be 
able to tell when your chicks are lousy by their general 
appearance. 

FOOD AND WATER. 

"Keep clean water before your chicks all the time, also 
plenty of grit, and for the first week or two finely broken 
egg shells, and after that oyster shells. 

Give all food dry. Bread crumbs make v < , 

an excellent food for the first two 
weeks. Oats, wheat and corn are my 
principal standbys. 

"Oats I use in the form of oatmeal. 
'This is just the right size for the first 
few days. Then I give cracked wheat, 
and as soon as they will eat it, finely 
cracked corn. By the end of the third 
week they can usually eat whole 
wheat. I depend upon these three 
grains all through the growth of 
the chick, simply using the differ- 
ent forms to accommodate the size of 
the chick. 

"A newly hatched Bantam will swallow only a very 
small particle. Give finely chopped, cooked meat twice a 
week. See that tliey have an abundance of green food all 
the time, and the more bugs and worms the better. Vary 
your diet as much as possible by using waste from the table, 
but be sure to feed everything dry. Wet or even moist food 
comes next to lice on the list of chicken destroyers. Feed 
five or six times a day at regular intervals for the first week 
or two, after that gradually lessen the number of feeds until 
by the time they are fully feathered two or three times a 
day will be found quite sufficient. 



"There is a common idea that Bantam chicks must be 
starved to keep them small. If you wish even a moderate 
amount of success in raising them give up this idea at once. 
Until they are fully feathered feed them just as if you ex- 
pected to make roasters of them. After they are feathered 
you may let up a little, but keep them growing, and when 
you pick one up it should feel plump and not as if its breast- 
bone would cut through the skin. 

"By this method you will undoubtedly get some over- 
grown birds, while by starving them you will get a great 
many worthless and mismarked ones, and the best you will 
get will not be equal to the best obtained in the other way, 
in either plumage, shape or vigor. Keep your Bantams small 
by selecting the smallest to breed from, and keep them 
healthy by good care and enough to eat. Nothing has done 
more to hurt the popularity of the Bantam than this idea" 
that it must be starved to keep it down to standard size. 

"Keep your chickens free from lice, give them clean, 
dry quarters, dry food in abundance, and you have the three 
main props in raising Bantams." 

FEEDING DRV GRAIN FOOD. 

The experience of five years past has fully satisfied the 
writer that Bantam chicks will do the best on a dry grain 
ration; have used nothing but prepared chick food for four 
seasons, and with this a little clean sweet meat scraps of the 
very best quality. As we rear all our Bantams with hens 
we trust to them to pick out for themselves all the larger 
pieces of both grain and meat. This dry grain ration pre- 
vents all manner of bowel trouble, and being their natural 
food it must suit them best. Those who can not buy the 
prepared chick food for their Bantam chicks can have a 
coffee mill through which they can grind some cracked corn, 
wheat, hulled oats, beans and peas. To this add some very 
small chick grit and a little meat scraps and charcoal and 
you have a nice healthy food for them. 

Again, we are not in a hurry to force water on the 
young Bantam chick; it must be old enough and strong 
enough to look about for water and find it before it has a 
drink. No water is pushed up against it to run into. It is 
placed at a safe distance so when they begin to run about 




FIG. 6 — HOrSE|FOR WINTER AND EARLY SPRING. 5x6 FEET;'RUNS SAME SIZE. 



they can have it at their pleasure. While we do not advocate 
the no water system (have grown some beautiful Bantams 
that never had water till over a week old), it is our practice 
to have two or even three broods with hens in coops or 
small low down houses that are four or five feet square. All 
live together in these houses. When old enough hens and 
chicks have their freedom. Usually these hens drop off one 
at a time till finally the whole lot follow the one hen. By 
this method some one of the hens will usually stay with 
the chicks for eight or nine weeks. We much prefer Cochin 
Bantams for mothers for all Bantams. 



64 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



MODERN METHODS. 
The Bantam Fancier of To-day an Expert. 

No branfh of the poultry interest has gone forward so 
fast as has the breeding of Bantams. From one end of the 
globe to the other chey are kept and cared for by the most 
expert in producing the very highest type of perfection in 
fowls. In the show catalogues of to-day we see among the 
names on the list of Bantam classes, those of millionairfs, 
professional men, men of leisure and culture; and the spec- 
imens shown are far in advance of any former efforts in this 
line. Popularity has come to these little beauties, and in 



,ii^./i# 




FIG. 7— DOUBLE OPKN COOP 6.^8. MAKING TWO AP.iRTMENTS -1x6 FEET. 
FOR 100 CHICKS. 

many instances marvelous values are placed upon and paid 
for the best. 

There is an inclination to huckster a little in this line, 
and entirely too many inferior specimens are being scat- 
tered all over the country at low prices. Not cheap prices, 
for many of them are high at any price. These go into the 
hands of those not well informed, and it spoils them for 
something better. It is to be hoped that the united eff oris 
of fanciers all over the country will stamp out eatirely the 
selling of poor cjuality Bantams at any price, and thus ele- 
vate them so that those who love the fancy may feel secure 
that they have only good quality. 

English fanicers have given much attention to the 
breeding of Bantams, and that all may have the benefit of 
their experience, we copy from "The Feathered World" some 
hints by Mr. Proud, an exper; in this line. On hatching he 
writes: 

"Don't attempt to hatch and rear Bantam chicks by arti- 
ficial means, for you cannot do it with any degree of sur- 
cess. Incubators and foster mothers are all right -for tia-e 
larger breeds of fowls. I don't say that you cannot hatch 
Bantam eggs by incubators, as with a good reliable machine 
and careful attention daily you can obtain very fair results, 
but the Bantam chick hatched by artificial incubation will 
be found a very fragile,' puny little mite that will be quite 
an impossibility to rear, and during his brief sojourn in this 
world will be > misery to both himself and an eyesore to 
those around Jhnn. 

In the first place, I will select a suitable broody hen, 
which is one of the most important features in rearing Ban- 
tams. It is uselesF putting a big hen of five or seven pounds 
weight on Bantam eggs, for even should she be fortunate 
enough not to smash the lot during the period of incubation, 
she would in all piobability crush the life out of the whole 
lirood within a week of hatching. 

It was only the o her day I received a letter from a 
young fancier, written in jubilant spirits, on having hatched 
twelve lovely chicks; but alas! within three days another 
letter reached me informing me of the demise of nine out 
of the twelve, and doubtless by the time this appears the 
other three will have ended their brief career by being 
trampled to death by a big hen. You might as well put 
Bantam eggs under a turkey and hope for a good result. 



Years ago I was greatly troubled over sitting hens breaking 
eggs and trampling chicks to death, so I determined to rem- 
edy the grievance by rearing suitable hens for hatching Ban- 
tam eggs. 

What I did was to purchase three or four Buff Pekin 
hens, which cost me 5s each, and these I matched to a Black 
Faced White Silky cock, and from this pen I hatched some 
twenty or thirty pullets, which for sitters and mothers are 
worth their weight in gold. Sit, why they'd sit in the mid- 
dle of the road on a few small stones; or, if you are hard 
up for room, you can put them on the top shelf in the scul- 
lery or on the mantlepiece, and they will sit from three 
weeks to three months if required. They will sit anywhere, 
and, as a rule, will rear two or three broods of chicks each 
year, for I have never known them to lay more than a 
dozen eggs before becoming broody, and are so quiet and 
reliable that no Bantam fancier should be without them. 
Having secured a suitable hen, which should not weigh 
more than three pounds at most, before putting her on the 
nest give her a good sprinkling with insect powder, and see 
that she is perfectly healthy, and, if possible, not scaly- 
legged. This latter point is of great importance, especially 
whore smooth, clean-legged chicks are a necessity, as in 
Game Bantams. I fancy I hear many of my readers say: 
"But what effect can a scaly-legged broody hen have on the 
chicks she rears?" My answer is, a very marked effect; and 
if you have never had scaly-legged chicks before you can 
depend upon having them the first brood you rear under 
a scaly-legged hen. This is a wrinkle, and you would do 
well to bear it in mind. 

Now as regards nests. I very rarely use anything ex- 
cept the usual orange boxes which can be purchased from 
any of the green grocers for 2d or 3d. I lay these down on 
their sides and nail a strip of wood about four inches deep 
along the front. You will then have three good roomy 
nests. The next thing to do is to get plenty of nice soft 
hay and make a nest- in the shape of a large basin, i. c, hol- 
low in the middle and nicely roimded at the sides, to prevent 
the eggs from rolling out when the hen leaves the nest to 
partake of food. 

Having put the hen on the nest, give her a dummy egg 
or two until she is properly settled down, which should not 
take more than a few hours. If at the end of that time she 
does not attempt to fly oit' when you place your hand under 




HOl'SE WIIH FOUR HREE1JIXCV PENS. 

her, it will be quite safe to put the proper eggs under, and 
this is best done at night time. When cold winds and 
frosty nights are prevalent, it is unwise to give a hen her 
full complement of eggs; better two less than one too many, 
for if she has too many it will make her uneasy and in all 
probability she will spoil several eggs in her endeavors to 
get them all properly under. At the end of four days after 
setting hens, examine the eggs by holding them before a 
candle. This must be done at night time; the clear eggs 
can then be taken away, which are easily distinguished 
from the fertile ones, the latter showing cloudy, and the 
veins of the germs will be quite distinct. By taking out 
the unfertile ones, in addition to making room for the fer- 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



65 



tile ones, it gives them a much better chance of Iteeping 
the proper temperature. The front of the nest should be 
covered either by a piece of board or saclv, and each nighc 
carefully remove each hen to feed and keep her off for teo 
to fifteen minutes. The best food for the sitting hen is 
maize, and let them have plenty of water, and a good supply 
of cinder ashes for the hen. to dust in. Should the nest be- 
come fouled, or any of the eggs broken, take out the nest, 
replace with -fresh hay, and wash the eggs with lukewarm 
water. If the nest is properly made, nice and soft, and the 
heu allowed off sufficient time each night until the wants of 
nature have been attended to, and providing she is a suita- 




IIANTAM HOUSE WITH SCRATCHING PEN, FRONT VIEW. 

blfc hen, as I have already described, this trouble will very 
rarely occur." 

Having tried the White Silky and its crosses for hatch- 
ing rfantams, we are fully satisfied that the best mothers 
for Bantams of all kinds are the Buff Cochin Bantam hens. 
One year-old Buff Cochin Bantam hens, or those that are 
older, make by far better mothers and sitters than any 
others. I have used all kinds of Cochin Bantams, both kinds 
of Brahma Bantams. Silkies and their crosses, and am fully 
convinced that none excels a Buff Cochin Bantam hen. 

THK MOTHER HKN. 

Returning to the sitting hen, Mr. Proud writes: "On 
the eighteenth day of incubation, when she comes off the 
nest for her usual feed, dust her again with insect powder, 
and do not disturb her again until the next night, when 
the chick? ought to have put in an appearance. Let hen 
and chicks remain quiet until the next morning, when you 
can give them their first feed. Before doing so, give the hen 
a good feed of maize, and water to drink, or she will bs 
liable to eat all the food away from the chicks. Nature has 
so provided that the chick does not require food for at least 
sixteen to twenty hours after hatching, whilst in the large 
breeds tweuty-four hours can elapse before giving food. 
The first feed then should be egg boiled for about five or 
six minutes, jnst long enough to cause it to be set; this 
should be chopped up fine and mixed with equal parts tf 
coarse oatmeal and stale bread crumbs. Continue this feed 
for the flr.st two days, by which time the brood should be 
well on their legs. On the third morning give them for the 
first meal Spratt's chicken or game meal scalded and al- 
lowed to stand until nearly cold. The next feed should be 
given about two hours later, and this should consist of pure 
oatmeal mixed with sweet milk until crumbly. This should 
be given at least three times a day, with the addi'.ion at 
noonday of a little lean meat chopped fine, for the first two 
months. When the chicks are a fortnight old, groats can b? 
given for the last feed at night, and when two months. old 
wheat should be given. 

The question has often been asked, how frequently 
should chicks be fed? To a great extent this depends upon 
the breed, but for Bantams, every two hours for the first 



week, and from that time till they are three months old, 
tour times daily will be sufficient. From three to five 
months, three times a day. A fair allowance of animal 
matter, such as lean meat chopped fine, granulated meat, 
or maggots Khould be given to chicks once daily, especially 
during February, March and April. This will enable them 
to withstand the cold winds and damp. Where chicks have 
not the liberty of a grass run, boiled vegetables mixed with 
the soft food should be given at the noon feed." 

NO W.\ fKK JIETHOD. 

In the chapter on feeding dry grain, we made mention 
of not having been in any hurry about giving the young 
Bantams water, and in support of this I quote from some 
writer who is very positive on the water question, and while I 
am not prepared to go as far or state as strongly as he dots. 
I am fully convinced that; many Bantam chicks are killed by 
having too much water: 

"I know of many successful breeders and exhibitors who 
rear from 200 to 300 chicks every season and the only water 
they get is what they can obtain from the grass after a 
shower or heavy dew. For my own part, I don't believe in 
water for chicks. Since I discontinued the use of water for 
my chicks I have not had one solitary case of diarrhoea, 
but let them have access to water, especially in hot weather, 
then your trouble begins. If you never give chicks water 
they never require it, and are much healthier without; but 
once you start giving them water you must continue till the 
end of the chapter. If your chicks have a grass run and are 
fed as stated above, they will not require water. Of course, 
when the bird reaches the age of, say four months, when 
grain will be necessary for his principal food, then and then 
only need water be given. 

When chicks are old enough to be taken away from the 
hen, viz., about three mouths, the cockerels should be sep- 
arated from the pullets and put on different runs where they 
cannot get together. By doing this you will find that both 
sexes will thrive better and settle down more contentedly, 
and a good plan is to put an old cock along with the cock- 
erels to prevent Iheir fighting and maintain order. 

Although chickens do not require water, the hen must 
not be forgotten, and to meet the necessity I fasten one of 
the ordinary drinking tins inside the coop about eight inches 
from the floor. This enables the hen to drink what she 
requires, and at the same time it is out of reach of the 




H.iNTAM HOl'SE WITH SCK.ATCHING PEN. REAR VIEW. 

chicks. The tin is easily kept in its place by a couple of 
wire staples. 

During the months of February, March and April I 
prefer false bottoms to the chicken coops, on account of the 
damp, cold weather generally experienced at that time cf 
the year-; and by Iiaving them loose they can be very readily 
removed for cleaning. When the warm weather sets in it is 
advisable to take ou't the bottoms and allow the chicks to 
sleep on the ground; but where rats and other vermin 
abound, the bottoms should be kept in all through the year. 
It is advisable also to have a hinged shutter to the coop 



66 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



foi' protection at night, and which also affords a shade from 
the sun in the daytime. The shutter can be lowered to any 
desired height by having a chain attached. The coops should 
be lime washed every Ave or six weeks; this is very impor- 
tant, if you would liave strong, healthy chicks." 

No doubt many who follow the above reasoning will 
have their doubts as to the results of the "no water" for 
Bantams. We can assure you, however, it is worth the trial. 
The writer has tried it, and shall continue to experiment 
with the no water system until satisfied as to whether it is 
good or bad. So far. as before stated. I have refrained from 
giving water till the Bantam chick went for and found it 
outside of and away from its coop. In some instances the 
chicks have been over a week old before they had water, 
and I never had better success with them than when under 
the dry grain food and the no water system till they found 
it for themselves. Mash food for Bantam chicks is not ben- 
eficial to them for several reasons. First of all, it makes 
thfm grow too fast and too large: then again, it is loosen- 
ing and often causes bowel trouble if the weather turns 
col 1 or damp. 

MORK AUDIT KKKDINC. 

Fortunately we do not all think alike. In proof of this 
I give for your consideration all sides of this most impor- 
tant question, and quote from the English fancier, Mr. J. 
Bcwner, as follows: 

"Having bred and reared Bantams for some years with 
a fair share of success in breeding, rearing and exhibiting, 
the following remarks may meet your approval. I hope 
they may be useful and interesting to your readers. 

I prefer incubator hatched chicks to those hatched under 
large hens, for the reason that every time I feed mine I 
handle some of them, when the old hen raises the alarm, 
making them run in all directions, and she is liable to tram- 
ple on then:. 

If hatched under a hen, first give the mother a good 
feed of soft food— Spratt's meal, mixed with sharps or bar- 
ley meal. This she will very much relish after being fed 
on hard corn for three weeks, which is most suitable, as they 
are not so likely to soil the nest. 

The chicks will not require any food for the first twenty 
to twenty-four hours after hatching. By that time have 
ready some hard boiled eggs, chopped very fine, adding a 
sprinkling of medium oatmeal. With this feed every two 
hours, giving very little and fresh each time. 

They will not require any drink until the third day, 
when a little condensed milk and water may be given each 
time of feeding. (Condensed milk mixed with water is good 
for all young chicfe.) But on no account leave it in the run, 
as they are always inclined to drink more than is good for 
them. 

When about a week old begin to give the best Scotch 
oatmeal and chicken groats, gradually leaving off the egg 
food: that is. if the chicks are strong and healthy and do 
not droop theii wings. Some chicks are as strong at a week 
old as others at two. 

A little water may be given to drink at intervals, with 
milk. 

After the chicks are under the hen for the night, scrub 
the boards on which they are fed and wash the drinking 
vessels. I prefer small flower pot saucers for that purpose, 
being easy to clean and nearly always empty at feeding time, 
so it insures the chicks always having fresh water. 

Fill the saucers ready for the morning, in which put one 
or two tablospoonfuls of coarse oatmeal. By the time you 
are up in the morning you will find the saucer empty, and 
your chicks will have enjoyed their cold porridge breakfast. 

Feed the mother on dart, buckwheat and small wheat, 



so, when feeding herself, she will call her chicks, who will 
try to pick up, and when old enough will eat 'that kind of 
grain, a good staple food, with the addition of a little hemp- 
seed, which will add sap and gloss to the feathers. 

TWO or 'three times a week give grass, watercress or 
lettuce, cut up fine with a pair of scissors. Bantams, if 
treated as I have stated, will become very tame, especially 
if kindly handled, smoothed gently, and given an occasional 
sponging of the head and face to get them used to the show 
preparation, so that, when exhibited, they will not turn 
their backs to the visitors, but will pass their little heads 
through the pen wires to be stroked or receive tidbits. 1 
may say, from experience, that Bantams, if well looked after, 
their wants and comforts well studied, will add both pleas- 
ure and profit to their owner." 

I'OSSIBLK TO KEED TOO MUCH. 

Here w" have a sample of the other side of feeding, and 
from one who claims to know: It is quite possible to feed 
young Bantams so much as to have them grow out of all 
proportion. Heavy grain and soft food fed to Game Ban- 
tams will spoil their shape and size and make them grow 
much too heavy a coat of feathers. A limited supply of 
hard .grain food is best for all Bantams that are close feath- 
ered, no soft or mash food, and the meat they get should 
be dry beef scraps. It is also possible 'to be too close in the 
feeding of Bantams, and by so doing have them under size 
and lacking in vigor. This is just as bad as the other. Some 
cracked corn, hulled wheat, barley and rice is good for 
them. When at liberty they have a chance to get plenty of 
bugs and green food, so neither need be given; but when 
in confinement both must be furnished them. 

Cochins that have their full growth, also Rose Combs 
and Sebrights, may be fed some soft or mash food for the 
benefit of better or longer feathers at molting time. When 
your old or breeding Bantams have a free range, but very 
little food should be given them — just a light feed twice a 
day to help them along is plenty. When confined in runs 
their wants must be fully met so they will not become thin 
or too poor to produce any eggs. Don't get the idea that 
Bantams need to be starved, for this is not the case; but 
there is a long distance between stuffing and starving. Grit 
and green food, plenty of it, must be given to them at all 
times. They will surely suffer if without it. Chick grit, 
small shell and a little charcoal broken as small as grains 
of wheat should always be where they can help themselves. 
Water they should have at all times. 

SM.\I,I, BKEHDIXC. HOUSES. 

Many have for their Bantams small pens or houses no 
bigger than a dog kennel. A house 3x4 and 2% feet high in- 
side is often made use of in a yard of six or seven Bantams. 
These houses may be within a wire enclosed run that is 
covered on top, and the old fowls, the hen and the small 
chicks may be within the enclosure and away from all cats, 
hawks or crows. Let it be remembered at all times thajt 
rats, weasels or other vermin of this sort will destroy Ban- 
tams, both old and young, if they have the opportunity; so 
it is always best to guard against such attacks by night at 
least. 

THE GRACEFl'L BANTAM. 

Eds. Country Gentleman — Although Bantams cannot be 
included among the economic varieties of poultry, we can 
scarcely deny them a place in our dealing with the various 
races, from the fact that they are so largely kept. Not a 
few of those who go in for the miniature races declare that 
they ai-e the most profitable of all, in that they produce 
more in eggs and flesh, relative to the cost of food and main- 



THE BANTAM FOWL. 



67 



tenance, than the larger breeds. I do not doubt thait this 
statement is true, but at the same time neither the eggs nor 
the birds themselves have any marketable value, and hence 
it is only true when both are consumed in the household. 
I do not see, however, why Bantams should not be told for 
table purposes. We know that in London and some of the 
other great centers of population there is considerable de- 
mand in the spring for what are called petits poussins, that 
is, young chicks which weigh only eight or nine ounces, 
and are served whole. For this purpose Bantams might be 
used, and would b«! equally good. Up to the present they 
have been kept almost entirely for their beauty or exhibition 
properties, but there is no reason why the other purpose 
should not be considered. 

For beauty the Bantam undoubtedly bears the palm, 
and no more pleasing section of a show can be found than 
that embracing the races grouped under this term. It would 
seem that there is reality in the old statement that "good 
stuff goes into little bulk,'' even in animal life. Certain it is 
that we find a concentration of qualities and a perfection of 
color in Bantams not often met with in larger birds. A 
further attraction lies in their sprightliness and activity. 
They carry themselves in a most pleasing manner, and act 
toward the larger members of the poultry yard in a way 
which is very amusing. Perhaps this latter may be desig- 
nated as impudence or cheek, and such it truly is. At the 
same time, this very fact is a recommendation. 

The first races of the Bantam came to us from the East, 
as the name indicates. Both Chinese and Japanese, together 
with other Asiatic nations, have bred them for centuries. 
Taking the jungle fowl as the original of domestic poultry, 
a small bird comparatively in itself, there would not be any 
more trouble in breeding down than in increasing the size. 
And the tastes of those peoples already mentioned have 
been in the lines of extremes, either of size, color or of style. 
Thus it is we have the quaint Japanese and Burmese Ban- 
tams, which are but examples of many others. The diminu- 
tive fowls introduced into Britain- -for this country has 
been the home of Bantams for many years — gave us the 
basis for producing most of the many varieties now to be 
met with, and without them we could scarcely have arrived 
so speedily at the desired end, for if the larger breeds had to 
be bred down, it would necessarily take a considerable per- 
iod of selection. It is this crossing which has given that 
vigor characteristic of them, and which is so much in their 
favor. 

There are two distinct sections. Bantams and Game 
Bantams. The latter embrace all those of the Game type; 
that is, descended from the fighting cocks of former days, 
while the former embraces all others. At one time Game 
Bantams were the more numerous and popular, but during 
recent years, due largely to the skill and perseverance of 
the late Mr. W. F\ Entwisle, the number of Bantams not 
Game has enormously developed, and they must be given 
the first place. Pro rata, taking the supporters of each indi- 
vidual variety. Game Bantams have the largest amount of 
abiention, as can be seen at our great exhibitions, such as 
the Dairy, Birmingham and the Crystal Palace, but in the 
gross total they are beaten by their compeers. 

Taking Bantams first, we are almost overwhelmed by 
their number. It is not my present intention to deal with 



them in detail, but simply to indicate what are their chief 
features. 

One of the oldest kinds is the Sebright, which is dis- 
tinct from all others in that the cock and hen are marked 
alike. The feathers are laced, by which is meant that each 
feather is edged with black. There are two colors. Golds and 
Silvers, and when even in lacing they are very beautiful. 
Black Rose Comb Bantams are really Black Hamburgs in 
miniature, but they drop their wings in a way the larger 
birds do not, thus showing an influence from the purely 
Bantam ancestry. There are also White Rose Combed Ban- 
tams, similar in all respects to the Blacks except in plumage. 
Pekin Bantams are really small Cochins, and we find in 
them the same distinctive varieties as in the last named 
breed. There are two very quaint forms, namely, the Black- 
Booted and White-Booted, which are characterized by re- 
markable development of hock, leg and foot feathering, the 
latter extending several inches beyond the toes. Japanese 
and Burmese Bantams are remarkable for their peculiarities 
of carriage and shape. 

In Frizzles, the feathers, instead of lying flat against 
the body, stand out from it, or are reversed. Hence the 
name. Cuckoo Bantams are small Scotch Grays, and in 
them the color and markings are usually much better than 
in the larger race. In addition, we have a considerable 
number of varieties which are, or should be, small fac- 
similes of well known fowls. These are Black Spanish, 
Malay, Indian Game, Polish, Brahma, etc. Some are by no 
means so perfect as those first named, by reason of the fact 
that they are of more recent introduction, and there has not 
been time yet to fix their distinctive characeristics. This 
will, however, be accomplished ere long. Many of the newer 
breeds have not yet been represented in miniature, but at- 
tempts are being made in this direction. For work of this 
kind skill, time and determination are required, and it is 
not every one who is willing to wait a decade of years ere 
seeing the fruit of his efforts. I believe it took the late Mr. 
Entwisle nine years before he bred Brahma Bantams to 
such a quality that he was willing to put them before the 
public. But given skill and patience, the reward is certain. 
Prices paid for good specimens are high, and I have known 
a little Bantam to sell for £50, which worked out at some- 
thing like £4 per ounce, live weight. The Bantam breeders 
include many people who will give high figures for a really 
first-class bird. 

With regard to Game Bantams, it is not necessary to 
say much. We have Black-Reds (which are the most pop- 
ular of all), Brown-Reds, Piles and Duckwings. These are 
of the long-legged, reachy type, the same in all respects save 
size as the ordinary modern show Game. Recently what 
are called Old-Fashioned Game Bantams have been intro- 
duced, which are more nearly allied to the fighting Game. 
It must be conceded that the former are rather the more 
stylish. 

Bantams are trained thoroughly for the show pen, and 
go through a course of instruction which prepares them to 
exhibit themselves in the best manner. When so trained, 
a bird holds himself in a very pleasing way, and is greatly 
improved by the process. But that is another story, into 
which I do not propose to enter. 



STEPHEN BE.-iLE, H- 



England. 



INDEX OF CONTENTS. 



GAME BANTAMS 

Aseel Game Bautams 

Birchen Game Bantams — Suggested Standard 

Black Game Bantams 

Black Breasted Red Game Bantams 

Brown Red Game Bantams . . 

Duckwing Game Bantams 

Duckwing Wheaten Hen ; The 

English Descriptions of Game Bantams ; 

Recent 

Indian Game Bantams 

Malay Game Bautams 

Malays; Breeding ■. 

Old English Game Bantams 

Origin ; Their 

Pile Wheaten Hen ; The 

Red Pile Bantams , 

Red Wheaten Hens 

Shape and Style ; Importance of 

White Game Bantams 



ASIATIC BANTAMS 19-40 

Black Cochin Bantams 27 

Black Cochin Bantams in England 30 

Black Tailed White Japanese Bantams 36 

Black Japanese Bantams 36 



Black Frizzled Bantams. 
Brahma Bantams 



.. 36 

19 

Breeding Bantams ; The Pleasure of 35 

. 23 

24 
.. 26 
.. 39 

40 
.. 30 
.. 30 

34 
.. 30 



Buff Brahma Bantams 

Buff Cochin Bantams 

Buff Cochin Bantams ia America ; The. 

Buff Frizzled Bantams 

Burmese Bantams 

Cochin Bantams in England 

Cochin Bantams ; Care of 

Color ; The Power of 

Cuckoo Cochin Bantams 



Cuckoo Cochin Bantams in England 30 

Dark Brahma Bantams in America 20 

Dark Brahma Bantams ; English 21 

Dark Brahma Bantams ; Experience With .... 22 

Dark Brahma Bantam Breeding 23 

Dark Brahma Bantams ; Double Mating 23 

Frizzled Bantams 39 

Frizzles in England 39 

Gray Japanese Bantams 36 

Japanese Bantams 36 

Light Brahma Bantams in America 20 

Light Brahma Bantams ; English 22 

Mating Cochin Bantams 32 

Partridge Cochin Bautams 29 

Pekin or Cochin Bantams 

Rumpless Bantams 

White Cochin Bantams 

White Cochiu Bantams in Eugland 

White Frizzled Bantams 

White Japanese Bantams 



PACK PAGK 

5-18 MISCELLANEOUS BANTAMS 41-54 

14 Bantams ; New 53 

11 Barred Rock Bautams 54 

13 Black Rose Comb ; The 47 

f, Black Rose Comb Bantams 46 

8 Black Rose Comb Bantams ; Mating 48 

11 Black Spanish Bantams 53 

13 Booted Bantams 49 

Booted White Polish ; The Sultan or 53 

7 Cuckoo Bantams 51 

14 Hamburg Bantams 48 

14 Mating Sebrights ; The English Method 45 

16 Nankin Bantams 51 

17 Polish Bantams 52 

5 Rose Comb Bantams 46 

13 Scotch Grey Bantams 52 

12 Sebright Bantams 41 

13 Sebrights ; Prominent Defects in 43 

5 Sebrights ; Breeding and Feeding .'...: 44 

13 Sebrights ; Fifteen Years with 44 

Silky Bantams 53 

Sultan Bantams 51 

Sultan, or Booted White Polish ; The 53 

White Rose Comb Bantams 46 

While Rose Comb Bantams ; Breeding the 48 

EXHIBITING AND JUDGING BANTAMS 55-56 

DISEASES OF BANTAMS— THEIR REMEDIES.57-60 

Canker 58 

Chicken-Pox 60 

Cholera 58 

Cold 57 

Crop Bound 59 

Diarrhoea 58 

Gapes 60 

Going Light 60 

Leg Weakness 59 

Lice 59 

Pip 60 

Roup 57-58 

Roup ; Diphtheritic 58 

Scaly Legs 59 

HOUSING AND CARE 61-67 

Bantam ; The Graceful 66 

Bantams ; Care and Management of 63 

Feed Too Much ; Possible to 66 

Feeding Dry Grain Food 63 

Feeding ; More About 66 

Food and Feeding 62 

Food and Water 63 

Hatching ; Best Time for 62 

ZS Hen ; The Mother 65 

39 Houses ; Small Breeding 66 

28 Mating 62 

30 Methods ; Modern 64 

59 Method ; No Water 65 

36 Size and Weight 62 



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TIIRKFYS Their Care and Management. The most complete book written upon turkey culture. It treats 
lunnLio ^j every branch of the subject. Among the prominent breeders who have spent time and effort 
in preparing articles for this book are Mrs. Mackev, Mrs. Jones, Mrs. Hargrave, Mrs. Singleton, S. B. Johns- 
ton, J. F. Crangle, W. J. Bell, B. F. Ulrey, B. P. Hislop, W. A. Moon, Ed Isley, J. A. Leland and S. T. 
Jones. ITie colored reproduction of an oil painting by Sewell, aided by numerous half- . 

tones makes this the very best turkey book published - — . Price 50c 

PrtliF TRY RftflSFS ANH FIYTHRFS Consists of 32 large pages. 9x12 inches, and contains designs of practical 
rUULlKI nUUOM iUti; riAXUnca poultry building fo? the city lot, the village acre and the 
farm; also complete and convenient houses for the fancier and plans for building extensive 
poultry farms ■ • • • ^ Price 25c 

THF RiNTAM FftWT The most complete and fully illustrated Bantam book publlshedln this country. Mr. 
iiiiv UAHiam iUT>i/ r^ p McGrew, judge and breeder, spent many months collecting and writing the 
matter, and over sixty copyrighted illustrations were made expressly for this book. Every 
person interested in Bantams as pets or for profit will want a copy PriC© 50c 

PPfliRIP PfiriTRY RFMFniFS Consists of SO pages, each 5x6 inches, points out the causes, describes the 
ncUAUivE fWiLXKi RLtiiLi^iLJ sj-juptoms and fives tried remedies for roup, colds, cholera, canker, indi- 
gestion, constipation, dysentery, congestion of liver, gapes, chicken pox, black rot, crop bound, scaly legs, 
bumble-foot, and other diseases of fowls. Contains fiiTl instructions on care of poultry to -, , • ^- 

prevent diseases Pric© 25c 

fc , ' 

These books are sold ON APPROVAL. If not satisfactory, they can be immediately retnrned in zood order and the purchase 
moaey will be promptly refunded. Tie above prices include payment of postage to any address in the United States or Canada, 
Address all orders to 

RELIABLE POULTRY JOURNAL PUB. CO., fiUINCY, ILLINOIS, U. S. A. 



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